Our trip to Thailand unfolded in two distinct halves: the quiet, lush landscapes of Khao Yai, followed by the vibrant energy of Bangkok. The contrast could not have been more perfect.
Khao Yai offered a completely different rhythm to what we later found in the city. Surrounded by greenery, fresh air, and open space, it felt like a true escape. Days were slow and restorative, spent enjoying nature, eating well, and simply taking a pause from everything. There was a sense of stillness there that made it easy to lose track of time. As much as we loved the calm, we were ready for the shift back into city life.
Arrival in Bangkok
We returned to Bangkok for the final stretch of our trip and checked into ASAI Bangkok Chinatown, a stylish and well-located base right in the heart of Chinatown. The design felt modern yet rooted in the neighbourhood, and stepping outside meant being immediately immersed in the area’s sights, sounds, and smells.
That evening, we headed to Khao Tom Jay Suay, a century-old late-night institution that perfectly captures the spirit of Chinatown dining. Traditionally known for rice porridge, often associated with the sick, dieters, or night owls, the restaurant is especially beloved by late-night diners and chefs finishing their shifts. What makes it special is the open display of fresh ingredients at the front, allowing you to choose exactly what you want and how it should be cooked.
We skipped the porridge and instead ordered a selection of dishes to share. The water spinach was vibrant and garlicky, cooked just enough to retain its crunch. The stir-fried clams with roasted chilli paste were rich and deeply savoury, with a slight smokiness that made them especially addictive. The salted roasted eringii mushrooms had a meaty texture and an almost buttery flavour. Sitting at a small metal table on the street, with traffic passing and conversations buzzing around us, made the whole experience feel quintessentially Bangkok.
After dinner, we made our way to Ba Hao, a moody cocktail bar tucked into a narrow Chinatown shophouse. The space felt cinematic, with dim lighting, deep red tones, and vintage Chinese decor that gave it a nostalgic, almost dreamlike quality. It felt like stepping into another era. I had the Drunken Mistress, a fragrant mix of gin, lychee, star anise, and plum that was both floral and subtly spiced. Victor ordered the Forbidden Gold, a playful combination of mashed plum, peach liqueur, lime, and Tsingtao beer. The drinks were creative without being overcomplicated, and it was the kind of place where you could easily lose track of time.
Chinatown Mornings
The next morning, we stayed local and had breakfast at Jae Hmoy Kia Pork Porridge, a humble but much-loved spot. This time, we leaned into the classic and ordered rice porridge, served steaming hot with tender pork and accompanied by cut dough sticks. The porridge was silky and comforting, the kind of dish that feels both nourishing and deeply rooted in tradition.
We followed it with coffee at The Coffee Store Charoenkrung, a small, unpretentious café that does excellent coffee. It was a quiet moment before diving back into the streets.
Talat Noi: History, Art and Hidden Corners
After taking care of some laundry, we wandered into Talat Noi, one of Bangkok’s most atmospheric neighbourhoods. It is a place best explored slowly, where every alley seems to reveal something unexpected.
We browsed small, characterful shops, admired the beautifully illustrated manhole covers scattered throughout the area, and stopped at the famous rusty Beetle car, which has become an iconic photo spot. Despite its popularity, it still felt charming rather than overly staged.
A highlight was visiting So Heng Tai House, a historic mansion with deep roots in the Chinese-Thai community. Built by Pra Apaivanich, a revenue officer for bird’s nests during the reign of King Rama, the house reflects a blend of Thai and Hokkien architectural styles.
The upper floor, made of intricately carved teak, was constructed without nails, a testament to traditional craftsmanship. The open courtyard and tall pillars create a sense of space and calm, while the building itself tells the story of a family and a community that shaped the area. Today, it functions as an educational centre, offering insight into Chinese life during the Rattanakosin era.
We spent a lot of time simply walking and taking in the street art that defines Talat Noi. Murals, installations, and small details are everywhere, giving the neighbourhood a creative energy that contrasts beautifully with its historic roots.
We stopped at Hong Sieng Kong, a restaurant/cafe set in a restored 200-year-old Chinese mansion along the Chao Phraya River. The space is filled with antiques, vintage objects, and thoughtful design touches that make it feel like a living museum. Sitting by the river with a cold drink, watching boats pass by, was one of the most relaxing moments of the day.
For lunch, we went to Sam Lor, a restaurant known for reinterpreting traditional Thai dishes. While the concept was interesting, the execution did not quite live up to expectations. The fish was undercooked, and several menu items were unavailable. Still, it provided a welcome break from the heat, and the space itself was comfortable.
Bangkok National Museum and Wat Arun
After lunch, we took a ferry to Tha Chang Pier and visited the Bangkok National Museum, one of the largest museums in Southeast Asia, set within the former palace of the vice king. The museum is vast, housing an extensive collection of Thai art, history, and cultural artefacts. Walking through the grounds alone is an experience, with temple structures, open courtyards, and historic buildings that make it feel more like a collection of spaces than a single museum.
One of the most memorable parts of the visit was the Red House, a striking teak residence with a layered royal history. Originally built as the private quarters of Princess Sri Sudarak, the sister of King Rama I, it was later relocated and used by Queen Sri Suriyendra, the wife of Rama II.
Today, the house is arranged in early Rattanakosin-period style, offering a glimpse into royal domestic life. Compared to the scale of the main museum galleries, it felt much more intimate. The preserved interiors, wooden textures, and personal objects created a quieter, more human perspective on history, one that felt closer and easier to imagine.
Inside the main galleries, the scale shifts again. Rooms are filled with sculptures, decorative objects, and royal artefacts that trace Thailand’s artistic and cultural development across centuries. One of the most striking pieces on display is the so-called Golden Boy, a 4-foot-tall bronze statue dating back roughly 900 years. It was only recently returned to Thailand in 2024, after spending decades in the United States, and now sits alongside a companion piece known as the Kneeling Lady. Both sculptures are believed to originate from northeastern Thailand, likely from the Buriram region, and are linked to the Khmer artistic tradition that once flourished across this area. There is something especially powerful about seeing them here, not just as ancient objects, but as works that have found their way back home after being removed and circulated abroad for years.
The story behind them adds another layer to the visit. After decades in museum collections overseas, they were repatriated following extensive research and negotiations, part of a broader effort by Thailand to recover cultural artefacts that had been illicitly exported in the past. Knowing this, the sculptures feel less like static exhibits and more like symbols of a wider cultural return.
It quickly became clear that the museum is far too large to take in all at once. Even moving at a steady pace, we only managed to scratch the surface.
We then crossed the river to visit Wat Arun Ratchawararam Ratchawaramahawihan. The temple is stunning, with its towering prang decorated in intricate porcelain details that catch the light beautifully. Even though I had visited before, it was still impressive. That said, the crowds were intense, with many visitors dressed in traditional outfits for photos, which made the experience feel slightly chaotic.
Charoenkrung: Bangkok’s Creative District
From there, we took the ferry to Sathorn Pier and walked through Charoenkrung. Once the city’s first paved road and a hub of international trade, it still reflects a mix of cultural influences. Today, it has evolved into one of Bangkok’s most creative districts, especially with the presence of the Thailand Creative & Design Center.
We visited ATT 19, a thoughtfully curated art and lifestyle space filled with antiques, exhibitions, and vintage pieces. We also stopped by P. Tendercool, known for its beautifully crafted furniture, and Warehouse 30, a creative complex that blends retail, art, and community spaces.
For dinner, we went to Lim Lao Ngow Fishball Noodle, a legendary street food spot with over 80 years of history. Their fishballs, made entirely from fresh fish, had a distinctive bouncy texture, while the egg noodles were rich, chewy, and deeply satisfying. It was a simple dish, but one that clearly reflects generations of refinement and care.
We ended the night wandering through Chinatown in search of mango sticky rice, weaving through neon-lit streets and late-night food stalls.
A Walk Through the City
On our last morning, we had breakfast at Ek Teng Phu Ki, a long-standing café known for its traditional breakfast offerings. The pan-fried eggs were served in a small metal pan, slightly crispy at the edges, paired with sweet, creamy milk tea. It felt like a nostalgic way to start the day.
We then took a long walk across the city to the Jim Thompson House Museum, stopping along the way at Mountain Goat Coffee Roasters for coffee. It was really interesting to walk this part of Bangkok, including neighbourhoods I had never ventured through before.
Jim Thompson House
The Jim Thompson House Museum was one of the most memorable cultural stops of the trip. Set within a cluster of traditional Thai houses surrounded by lush greenery, it feels like a hidden oasis in the middle of the city. The story of Jim Thompson and his role in reviving Thailand’s silk industry adds an intriguing historical layer. The craftsmanship throughout the house is remarkable, and the shop is hard to resist. I ended up buying a few silk pieces, which felt like the perfect souvenir.
For lunch, we went to Hi Nakorn Phochana, a casual Chinese restaurant that offered a relaxed and satisfying meal. On our way back towards Chinatown, we stopped at Khiri, a serene tea space that provided a quiet contrast to the busy streets outside.
We spent our final afternoon wandering through familiar streets, retracing steps and soaking in the atmosphere one last time.
A Final Dinner in Bangkok
For our final dinner, we chose Charmgang, a Michelin-recommended restaurant with a lively, modern feel. The menu focuses on bold Thai flavours with creative interpretations.
We ordered a variety of dishes to share. The betel leaves wrapped with the fish of the day were fresh and aromatic. The white curry of smoked kingfish with tomato and wild coriander was rich yet balanced, with layers of flavour that unfolded with each bite. The pomelo salad brought brightness and acidity, while the stir-fried tiger prawns with shrimp paste and stink beans delivered bold, punchy flavours. Everything felt thoughtful and well executed.
We were first given a few delicate canelés to cleanse the palate, and then, of course, I had to order mango sticky rice one last time, easily one of my favourite desserts in the world.
After dinner, we returned to our hotel, collected our bags, and headed to the airport. And just like that, we said goodbye to Bangkok and to Thailand. It was the kind of trip that ends too quickly, but stays with you long after you leave.
Have you visited Bangkok before? What do you think of this amazing, bustling city?
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