After a full day immersed in the historic heart of Istanbul, we were ready to explore more of the city’s rich layers, from Byzantine treasures to lively streets and waterfront views.
Hagia Sophia, Archaeology, and the Pera Palace
We began our second morning at the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, a building that feels less like a monument and more like a living timeline of the city itself. Stepping into the vast main hall, I was immediately struck by the sheer scale of the space. The central dome seems to float high above, supported by half-domes and arches that create a sense of weightless grandeur. Light streams through dozens of windows at the base of the dome, casting shifting patterns across the marble floor and golden walls. Even with crowds of visitors, the hall felt hushed, as if everyone instinctively lowered their voices in awe.
The second part of our visit revealed another layer of its story. Tucked into galleries and upper sections are the Christian mosaics, some dating back to the Byzantine era. Their gold backgrounds shimmer softly, and the faces of Christ, the Virgin Mary, and saints look out across centuries. Many had been plastered over when the building became a mosque, only to be uncovered again in modern times.
The mosaics were truly remarkable, as was the entire building. I really enjoyed my visit here.
By 10:30, we found ourselves once again at the café in Cafer Ağa Madrasa, which felt like a calm oasis in the middle of the city. After tea, we headed to the Istanbul Archaeological Museums, a complex of three separate museums located near Gülhane Park.
The highlight for me was the sarcophagi, displayed in the Museum of Archaeology. These stone coffins, carved with incredible detail, depict mythological scenes, battles, and processions that feel almost alive despite being thousands of years old. The famous Alexander Sarcophagus, with its vivid reliefs of warriors and horses, stood out as a masterpiece of ancient craftsmanship.
The galleries also held fragments of ancient statues, inscriptions, and other treasures that spoke to Istanbul’s role as a crossroads of civilisations. Walking among these artefacts, I was struck by the layers of history that converged in the city. It was easy to imagine the lives of the people who had created, used, and revered these objects centuries or even millennia ago.
From there, we strolled through Gülhane Park, picking up a sesame-covered simit along the way.
Lunch was at Yarımada Balık Restoran, a rooftop restaurant that can be difficult to find but rewards visitors with sweeping views. We were the only guests, and the owner warmly served us cold beer, meze, and fried fish. It was one of the most memorable meals of the trip.
The afternoon took us to the bustling streets of Beyoğlu, alive with people enjoying their Sunday. The old tram rattled up and down the main avenue, adding to the charm.
Before dinner, I had one very special stop in mind: the Pera Palace Hotel. Built in 1892 to host passengers of the Orient Express, the hotel is steeped in history and still carries an air of old-world glamour. Its most famous guest, Agatha Christie, is said to have written Murder on the Orient Express here, and her preserved room remains a memorial to the author.
We stepped into the Orient Bar, a richly decorated space with dark wood, plush seating, and walls that seemed to echo with a century of stories. The bar has long been a gathering place for travellers, writers, and diplomats, and sitting there with a drink felt like becoming part of that legacy, if only for a brief moment. The atmosphere was elegant yet welcoming, a perfect way to pause and soak in the history of the hotel before heading back into the lively streets of modern Istanbul.
As the evening settled in, we walked along the waterfront, crossed the bridge, and decided to call it a night. Still satisfied from our wonderful lunch, I skipped dinner and let the city lights be the final course of the day.
Day Three: A Holiday on the Bosphorus
Our final day in Istanbul coincided with a UK bank holiday, giving us one more chance to explore. We began at the Grand Bazaar, wandering through its endless maze of shops filled with lanterns, carpets, spices, and jewellery.
From the Grand Bazaar, we walked uphill to the Süleymaniye Mosque, one of the great works of the Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. The approach itself was striking, with the mosque’s domes and slender minarets rising above the city skyline.
Inside, the atmosphere was calm and serene, a welcome contrast to the bustling bazaar we had just left. Soft light filtered through stained-glass windows, illuminating the vast prayer hall with its soaring central dome. The interior decoration was more restrained than that of the Blue Mosque, which gave it a sense of quiet dignity and balance.
In the afternoon, we took a Bosphorus boat tour, which offered a unique perspective of the city as we sailed between Europe and Asia. Along the way, we passed the Dolmabahçe Palace, the Çırağan Palace, the picturesque Ortaköy Mosque, and finally the Bosphorus Bridge. The breeze, the water, and the skyline made it an unforgettable way to spend the afternoon.
Lunch was at the historic Pandeli Restaurant, located inside the Spice Bazaar. Its tiled blue walls and old-world charm provided a fitting setting for our final meal.
With a few hours remaining before my flight, we wandered through Kadırga and visited the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque, another serene masterpiece by Mimar Sinan. From the outside, the mosque looks modest, blending naturally into the surrounding streets. Once inside, however, the intricate detail reveals itself. The walls and mihrab are adorned with exquisite İznik tiles, their deep blues and greens arranged in elegant floral and geometric patterns. You’re not allowed to take photos inside, but it was spectacular.
Afterwards, we returned to the hotel, where my partner prepared for the next stage of his work trip, and I headed to the airport.
Reflections
Three days in Istanbul offered a glimpse into a city that is both ancient and modern, European and Asian, traditional and lively. From mosques and palaces to rooftop restaurants and ferry rides, the experiences were as diverse as they were memorable.
Even after three days, Istanbul feels like a city that invites you back again and again. No matter how much you see, there is always another street, another viewpoint, another corner of history waiting to be discovered.
From mosques to markets, Istanbul proves some cities are meant to be explored again and again.
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