After two full days exploring Harajuku, Shinjuku, Asakusa, and Omotesandō, we dedicated the next couple of days to the heart of Tokyo. This part of the city blends history, tradition, and the pulse of modern life, with everything from bustling markets to serene gardens tucked between skyscrapers.
Morning at Tsukiji Outer Market
We started early, taking the Oedo Line to Tsukijishijō Station to visit the Tsukiji Outer Market for breakfast. Although the inner wholesale market has relocated to Toyosu, the Outer Market remains vibrant with energy. Narrow lanes are lined with food stalls and small shops, buzzing with chefs, locals, and tourists alike. The air carried the scent of fresh seafood, grilled fish, and sweet batter frying in oil.
We tried a variety of dishes, each offering a glimpse into Tokyo’s street food culture. The fish cake with kabocha squash was sweet and earthy, a seasonal treat of October. Omelette on a stick was fluffy, slightly sweet, and perfectly portable. The fried onigiri was crisp outside but soft and comforting inside. We also sampled tuna sashimi and grilled eel, each piece fresh and delicate, a reminder of the precision and care inherent in Japanese cuisine. To finish, we indulged in tanghulu, candied fruit skewers that added a playful sweetness to the morning. Walking through the market, it was clear that Tokyo’s food culture thrives not only in fine dining but in everyday street offerings, where attention to detail is everywhere.
Hamarikyu Gardens
After our breakfast adventure, we strolled to Hamarikyu Gardens, one of Tokyo’s most beautiful traditional gardens, offering a peaceful counterpoint to the city’s hustle. The gardens occupy what was once a shogunate summer villa by Tokyo Bay, and their design reflects the Edo period’s careful attention to harmony between water, plants, and architecture.
The central pond is dotted with islands, one of which houses Nakajima no Ochaya, a teahouse where visitors can enjoy matcha tea paired with traditional wagashi sweets. In Japan, this combination is more than a snack. It is a ritual rooted in the tea ceremony, or chanoyu. Every step, from whisking the powdered green tea to presenting a wagashi, is intended to create a moment of mindfulness and appreciation. I had an autumn leaf-shaped wagashi to match the season, which complemented the slightly bitter, earthy matcha perfectly. Sipping the tea in the quiet of the garden, we felt a connection to centuries of Japanese tradition, where even a simple tea break can be a meditative, refined experience.
Entry to the gardens is just ¥300, a small price for a serene escape in the middle of Tokyo. Spending time there reminded me how the city’s modern skyline coexists seamlessly with centuries-old spaces of quiet reflection.
Nittele Tower and Ginza
From the gardens, we walked to Nittele Tower to see the Really Big Clock, a whimsical steampunk sculpture by Kunio Shachimaru, designed in collaboration with Studio Ghibli’s Hayao Miyazaki. The clock performs a short mechanical show several times a day, and we timed our visit perfectly. It was playful, intricate, and perfectly Ghibli-esque, making it one of those Tokyo surprises you don’t expect but instantly remember.
We then wandered through Ginza, Tokyo’s luxury shopping and entertainment district. Highlights included Itoya, a legendary stationery shop where even the smallest notebooks and pens feel like works of art, and Ginza Six, which offers not only high-end stores but a rooftop terrace with panoramic city views.
Tokyo National Museum
When the rain picked up, we headed to the Tokyo National Museum in Ueno. As Japan’s oldest and largest museum, it offered a fascinating glimpse into the country’s history and culture. We wandered through galleries filled with samurai armour, delicate kimonos, Buddhist sculptures, and centuries-old ceramics.
The precision and artistry particularly struck me in the calligraphy and textiles, and the way everyday objects were crafted with such care. The museum gave a clear sense of continuity, showing how Japan’s history and aesthetics influence the modern city around us. By the time we left, the rain had eased, and it felt like we had travelled through centuries of Japanese culture in just a few hours.
Tokyo Skytree and Udon
Despite the drizzle, we visited Tokyo Skytree, Japan’s tallest structure. Even through misty skies, the views were incredible, revealing how Tokyo sprawls endlessly, a sea of buildings punctuated by parks, rivers, and distant mountains.
After descending, we took a short bus ride to Shuhari Stone-ground Udon, an udon restaurant near Kinshichō Station blending the casual feel of an izakaya with the craftsmanship of handmade noodles. The starters were just as memorable as the noodles themselves: creamy potato salad, delicate sashimi, and perfectly fried tempura. The udon noodles were earthy, chewy, and springy, a perfect contrast to the tender tempura and fresh sashimi. Meals like this reminded me that some of the most satisfying experiences in Japan come not from grandiose dining, but from dishes prepared with care and simplicity.
Exploring Yanesen
The next morning began with another lovely breakfast at our hotel. The buffet had quickly become one of my favourite parts of each day, a comforting mix of Japanese and Western dishes presented with quiet precision. I went for a warm bowl of congee topped with pickled vegetables and a drizzle of soy sauce. It was simple but deeply satisfying and felt like the perfect gentle start before another full day of exploring.
We set out for Yanesen, a collection of old neighbourhoods encompassing Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi. This area feels worlds away from the neon-lit streets of central Tokyo, with narrow lanes, historic temples, and quiet shops preserving an older Tokyo atmosphere.
We visited a number of temples, as this area is absolutely full of them. Each temple is dedicated to a different deity, offering a glimpse into the variety of spiritual practices in Tokyo. For example, we visited Enju-ji, which is dedicated to Nichika-sama, the god of strong legs. It is especially popular with runners seeking blessings for endurance and strength. Walking among the temple grounds, it was easy to appreciate the care and devotion that has been maintained here for generations.
After exploring the temples, we turned our attention to the streets themselves. Yanesen is full of quaint little shops tucked along narrow lanes, and it was a delight to photograph and browse them. We came across a beautiful washi paper shop, with rolls of colourful handmade paper and traditional designs, and a handful of other boutiques offering ceramics, crafts, and locally made goods. The contrast between these charming streets and the quiet spiritual spaces of the temples really captures the layered character of Yanesen.
Next, we wandered through Yanaka-reien, one of Tokyo’s most atmospheric cemeteries, where centuries-old gravestones stand alongside cherry trees and quietly manicured paths.
Exiting the cemetery, we followed train tracks to a bridge overlooking the rails and then made our way to the Asakura Museum of Sculpture, the former home and studio of early 20th-century sculptor Taikan Asakura. The museum featured a small exhibition of cat-themed sculptures.
But the real highlight was exploring the traditional Japanese home itself, which allowed visitors to step back into history while observing the artist’s personal life and creative environment.
For lunch, we stopped at Chineya, a small unagi restaurant where the focus is on a single dish: grilled eel over rice, served with miso soup and a poached egg. The simplicity of the meal allowed the flavour of the eel to shine—smoky, tender, and perfectly balanced with the rice.
Imperial Palace Gardens
After lunch in Yanesen, we made our way to Kokyo Gaien National Garden, which leads to the Imperial Palace, the primary residence of Japan’s Emperor. The palace sits in the heart of Tokyo, yet its expansive grounds feel surprisingly calm and open. The gardens are surrounded by moats and stone walls, a reminder of the site’s origins as Edo Castle, the seat of the Tokugawa shoguns from the early 17th century.
Walking along the wide, tree-lined paths, it’s easy to imagine the history that unfolded here: samurai guarding the castle gates, officials travelling along the main avenues, and centuries of ceremonial processions. Many areas of the palace grounds are closed to the public, preserving the privacy of the imperial family, but the outer gardens are beautifully maintained, offering views of historic gates, wide lawns, and cherry trees that bloom spectacularly in spring.
Akihabara: Electric Town
Our final stop of the day was Akihabara, Tokyo’s famed “Electric Town,” known for its concentration of electronics shops, anime stores, and gaming culture. We explored several highlights:
- Mandarake Complex, an eight-story paradise for anime, manga, and collectables.
- Super Potato Retro-kan, heaven for retro gaming enthusiasts.
- Radio Kaikan, packed with hobby items, electronics, and anime merchandise.
- Yodobashi Camera, one of Japan’s largest electronics stores.
- Don Quijote, a chaotic discount chain that’s perfect for quirky souvenirs.
Even if you’re not a tech or anime fan, Akihabara’s energy is infectious. The bright signs, constant chatter, and endless variety make it an unforgettable experience.
For dinner, Victor and I ventured to Kizuna Sushi, a small sushi restaurant on our own. Many sushi places in Japan have modest Google reviews, as most locals rely on Tabelog, but our meal proved outstanding. We ordered two different sashimi platters, each piece fresh, delicate, and perfectly sliced. It was a fitting end to a full day of exploring Tokyo.
Reflections
Our third and fourth days in Tokyo offered a deeper look at the city’s contrasts: bustling markets versus tranquil gardens, centuries-old neighbourhoods versus towering skyscrapers, and modern pop culture alongside historical treasures. Every corner revealed another layer of Tokyo, showing how the city manages to preserve its past while embracing constant innovation.
Which Tokyo experience would you explore first: the serenity of its gardens or the energy of its streets?
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