If you’re looking for a mix of dramatic landscapes, historic villages, and charming countryside, the Peak District is hard to beat. Nestled in the heart of England, this national park offers rolling hills, limestone dales, rivers, and a rich tapestry of history and literature.
For our weekend getaway, we based ourselves in the picturesque village of Longnor, a peaceful spot with easy access to some of the area’s most iconic sights. Over the course of three days, we hiked scenic trails, explored charming towns, crossed famous stepping stones, and even discovered literary and design treasures. From the rushing rivers of Dovedale to the quiet elegance of North Lees Hall, and the modern craftsmanship of the David Mellor factory, the Peak District offered a perfect balance of adventure, culture, and relaxation.
We stayed at Sunnyside B&B, a charming stone house tucked into the heart of the village. From the moment we arrived, it felt warm and welcoming — the kind of place where every detail has been thought through. Our room was spacious and comfortable, with soft lighting, countryside views, and a deep bathtub that became my personal highlight after long walks. Downstairs, the living room had a fireplace and cosy armchairs, perfect for winding down in the evening.
Friday: Dovedale, Thor’s Cave, and Bakewell
We started Friday morning with the most wonderful breakfast. Fresh homemade bread, local milk, a selection of cheeses, granola, and yoghurt awaited us, all perfectly prepared to fuel a day of hiking and exploring.
After breakfast, we set off around 9am towards Dovedale National Nature Reserve, one of the Peak District’s most iconic spots. The drive from Longnor was scenic, with winding country lanes, stone cottages, and fields stretching out under the early autumn sun.
We began our walk at the famous stepping stones across the River Dove, which have been a feature here for centuries. The Dovedale stepping stones were first constructed around 1890 to make it easier for Victorian tourists to cross the river, and they’ve remained one of the area’s most beloved landmarks ever since. Standing on them with the water rushing past, it was easy to imagine how many generations of visitors had crossed in exactly the same way.
The path led us deeper into the valley, where dramatic limestone features and caves seemed to appear around every bend. We admired the Tissington Spires, Reynard’s Cave, Lion’s Head Rock, Ilam Rock, and the Dove Holes, each formation more striking than the last.
By about 11 am, we reached Milldale, a tiny hamlet tucked at the northern end of Dovedale. With its stone cottages, quiet lanes, and the little packhorse bridge over the River Dove, it felt like stepping back in time. We stopped at Polly’s Cottage, a small country café, and enjoyed a few pastries by the river, a perfect mid-morning pause.
From Milldale, we drove to the nearby car park that marks the start of the trail to Thor’s Cave. The path climbed steadily through woodland before opening out to reveal the enormous cavern mouth high in the limestone cliffs. The cave, occupied as far back as the Stone Age, offered sweeping views of the Manifold Valley and a sense of history and mystery.
Later in the afternoon, we continued to Bakewell, famous for its desserts. Walking through its streets, we were struck by how many pudding shops there were. We sampled both the Bakewell Tart and the older Bakewell Pudding, sweet treats that perfectly rounded off the day.
After our explorations, we returned to Sunnyside B&B to rest. I indulged in the most luxurious bath, washing away the day’s walking. For dinner, we headed to The Blind Bull, a 12th-century inn and restaurant, to celebrate Victor’s birthday a bit early. The meal was delicious, and we returned to our accommodation for a good night’s sleep, ready for Saturday’s adventures.
Saturday: Hiking Mam Tor, Cave Dale, and a Cosy Evening in Longnor
After another wonderful breakfast at our accommodation, we set out on Saturday morning to hike Mam Tor, also known as the “Shivering Mountain.” The drive from Longnor to the trailhead offered sweeping views of the Peak District, and the crisp morning air made it feel like the perfect day for adventure.
We arrived mid-morning and began our ascent. Mam Tor is renowned for its distinctive layered shale and breathtaking ridgeline views. The climb was steady but manageable, and with each turn of the path, ever-widening panoramas of the surrounding valleys and hills revealed themselves. Along the ridge, the wind carried the scent of heather and grass. From the summit, the views were breathtaking, and we lingered for a while, taking photos and soaking it all in.
After descending Mam Tor, we made our way to Castleton, a charming village in the Hope Valley. Walking through its streets, we admired stone cottages, quaint shops, and the backdrop of surrounding hills. Castleton is also famous for its caves, including Peak Cavern and Speedwell Cavern, which have attracted visitors for centuries.
From Castleton, we continued our adventure by hiking up Cave Dale, a dramatic limestone valley with sheer cliffs rising on either side. As we climbed, the village gradually shrank below us, and the light playing across the rocks and heather created a truly otherworldly scene. At the top, the views stretched across rolling hills and valleys, giving a real sense of the Peak District’s scale and beauty.
After descending from Cave Dale, we returned to Longnor. For dinner, we visited The Royal Oak, one of the village’s two pubs, and enjoyed classic pie and chips.
Back at our accommodation, I indulged in another luxurious bath and later sat by the fireplace in the cosy living room, reflecting on a full day of hiking and exploration.
Sunday: River Wye, Chee Dale, North Lees Hall, and Hathersage
On Sunday morning, after our final hearty breakfast at Sunnyside B&B, we packed up and drove to Wormhill. From there, we began a gentle hike along the River Wye, passing through the picturesque Chee Dale. One highlight was crossing the Chee Dale Stepping Stones, hopping across the river while enjoying the sparkling water and dramatic limestone cliffs.
We then visited North Lees Hall, a secluded Grade II listed Tower House* dating from 1594. The Hall’s history is fascinating — restored in 1962, converted into self-catering accommodation by the Vivat Trust in 1988, and famously visited by Charlotte Brontë, inspiring Thornfield Hall in Jane Eyre. Its barn, outbuildings, and stunning views over the countryside added to the sense of history and charm.
After exploring the Hall, we headed to Hathersage for lunch at The Scotsman’s Pack Country Inn, enjoying a hearty Sunday roast.
Following lunch, we wandered through the town, stopping by Little John’s Grave, a peaceful and slightly mysterious spot tucked away in the churchyard of St Michael’s. According to local legend, Little John, one of Robin Hood’s loyal companions, spent his final days in Hathersage, and his grave has become a quiet point of interest for visitors drawn by the folklore.
Afterwards, we made our way to the David Mellor factory, showroom, store, and café, just outside the village. The David Mellor factory, designed by Sir Michael Hopkins, is circular and purpose-built for cutlery production. Its design, combining traditional materials with modern engineering, has received numerous architectural awards. The layout allows a smooth workflow from cutting and shaping metals to hand finishing and packing. Inside, the showroom and café offer a gallery-like experience of Mellor’s iconic cutlery and homeware. Visiting was both inspiring and educational, highlighting craftsmanship, design, and innovation.
With our Peak District adventures complete, we returned to Longnor, packed up, and set off for the drive back home. The weekend had been filled with hiking, history, literary connections, delicious food, and the quiet charm of the Peak District. We left feeling refreshed, inspired, and grateful for a beautiful and memorable weekend.
The Peak District was everything we hoped for — and more.
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