After spending a quiet day exploring the temples and gardens of Northern Higashiyama, we turned our attention south to another side of Kyoto. While the northern district felt secluded and contemplative, Southern Higashiyama revealed a livelier rhythm, shaped by pilgrimage routes, historic streets, and some of the city’s most recognisable landmarks. This part of Kyoto blends spiritual depth with everyday life, making it an ideal area to experience the city’s traditions alongside its vibrant streets.
Southern Higashiyama is one of Kyoto’s most picturesque districts, where winding lanes, traditional wooden houses, and centuries-old temples come together to create the city’s most iconic scenes. Stretching from Fushimi Inari in the south to the slopes of Kiyomizu-dera and the narrow streets of Gion, the area captures the spirit of old Kyoto. It is a place where the sound of temple bells mingles with the chatter of shopkeepers and the aroma of incense drifts through the air. Spending a day here feels like stepping through layers of history, each turn revealing another piece of Kyoto’s quiet beauty.
Morning at Fushimi Inari Taisha
We started bright and early to visit Fushimi Inari Taisha, one of Kyoto’s most iconic sights. The air was cool and quiet when we arrived, the early morning light just beginning to filter through the thousands of vermilion torii gates. Dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice, prosperity, and good harvests, the shrine dates back to the 8th century and remains one of Japan’s most important spiritual sites.
We passed the main shrine complex before beginning our walk through the Senbon Torii, the famous “thousand gates” path that climbs Mount Inari. Each gate, donated by individuals and businesses, bears inscriptions of the donors’ names and dates. The tunnel of vivid orange gates created an almost dreamlike atmosphere, alternating between sunlight and shadow as we made our way up. We walked partway up the mountain, stopping often to admire the views over Kyoto and the smaller shrines scattered along the trail. The serenity of the forest, mixed with the soft sound of footsteps on stone, made it one of the most peaceful moments of our trip.
Gojo-zaka and the Kimono Experience
After leaving Fushimi Inari, we took a taxi to the bottom of Gojo-zaka Street, one of the traditional approaches to Kiyomizu-dera Temple. The walk uphill was lively, lined with small shops selling pottery, sweets, and local crafts. Before continuing to the temple, we stopped at Waka Kimono Rental Kiyomizu so that Victor and I could rent kimonos for the afternoon.
Choosing our outfits was half the fun. The staff helped us select from rows of colourful fabrics, each pattern reflecting the season. I chose a soft, floral light green kimono with an obi (wide sash) in muted gold, while Victor wore a simple dark navy one, elegant and understated. Once dressed, we stepped out into the street, feeling both transformed and slightly self-conscious, but the atmosphere was so warm and cheerful that it quickly turned into pure joy.
We walked together through the temple grounds, the fabric of our kimonos moving gently with the breeze. The sound of wooden sandals on the stone paths, the scent of incense in the air, and the soft rustle of leaves above made the whole experience feel timeless. Other visitors smiled or nodded in appreciation, and we took a few photos overlooking Kyoto’s rooftops from the temple terrace.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple is one of Kyoto’s most celebrated landmarks, founded in 778 and dedicated to Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy. The temple’s name means “pure water,” taken from the Otowa Waterfall that runs through its grounds. Its most famous feature is the large wooden stage that extends from the main hall, supported by hundreds of wooden pillars and offering panoramic views of the city below. The craftsmanship is remarkable, with the entire platform built without the use of nails. The view from the terrace, framed by trees and temple rooftops, is one of Kyoto’s most iconic sights and a reminder of the city’s deep connection to both faith and nature.
It was one of those rare travel moments that felt completely rooted in place and memory.
Matsubara-dori and Lunch at Okutan Kiyomizu
After exploring Kiyomizu-dera, we made our way back down along Matsubara-dori Street, one of Kyoto’s most charming streets leading away from the temple. The narrow lane was full of traditional shops, teahouses, and small vendors selling sweets, ceramics, and local crafts. The air was filled with the scent of freshly baked yatsuhashi, Kyoto’s famous cinnamon rice cakes, and we paused often to look at shop displays or peek into courtyards framed by wooden lattices. Walking through the area in our kimonos made it all feel even more special, as though we had stepped into another time.
For lunch, we stopped at Okutan Kiyomizu, one of Kyoto’s oldest tofu restaurants, founded more than 350 years ago. The restaurant sits in a peaceful traditional house with tatami rooms overlooking a small garden. We removed our shoes and were seated on floor cushions by a window where the light filtered softly through shoji screens.
At Okutan, the meal is served as a set, but you choose your main tofu dish: the Yudofu course, featuring boiled and soft tofu with a delicate, mild taste; Okutan’s original course, which uses firmer tofu with a rich flavour; or cold tofu, refreshing and smooth. Each set also includes yam soup, sesame tofu, grilled tofu with sweet miso, fried vegetables, rice, and pickles.
It was quite fun to sit down in our kimonos, though not the easiest task. Every dish was beautifully presented, with subtle flavours that reflected the restaurant’s long tradition. The simplicity of the ingredients, combined with the calm of the surroundings, made the experience feel almost meditative. It was a quiet, nourishing lunch that perfectly captured Kyoto’s refined approach to food.
Afternoon in the Historic Streets of Kyoto
After lunch, we returned to the kimono rental to change back into our regular clothes before continuing to explore Matsubara-dori Street, as we had only seen part of it before lunch. The street felt even livelier in the early afternoon, full of visitors browsing small shops and artisans selling pottery, sweets, and traditional crafts.
Victor’s parents decided to visit Kōdaiji Temple, while we stayed behind to wander a bit longer. We met again later to walk through Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, two beautifully preserved streets lined with traditional wooden houses and tea shops. The gentle slopes and tiled rooftops gave the area an old-world charm, and even with the crowds, it felt deeply atmospheric.
We stopped at Hario Café, a serene and modern spot known for its beautiful glassware and slow-brewed coffee. Hario is a Japanese company that has been producing heat-resistant glassware since 1921 and is best known for creating the iconic V60 dripper, a classic of pour-over coffee culture. The café reflects this heritage, with shelves of gleaming glass carafes and brewing tools on display. The process took quite a while, but it was fascinating to watch the precision and care with which each cup was made. I also picked up a piece of jewellery made from Hario glass, a lovely reminder of the moment.
Because the brewing took longer than expected, we had to rush to our next appointment, a Gion Dance performance at Gion Kaikan. The performance was captivating, featuring graceful movements, colourful costumes, and live traditional music. It offered a glimpse into Kyoto’s long tradition of dance and theatre, performed with elegance and emotion.
After the performance, we set out on foot to explore Gion and Pontocho, following a Lonely Planet night walk designed to showcase Kyoto at its most atmospheric. The route led us through a series of narrow streets and lanes that felt carefully tucked away from the main roads. We passed traditional wooden machiya houses, their latticed façades softly illuminated from within, and walked beneath lanterns that cast a warm glow onto the stone pavement.
Crossing small bridges and tracing the edge of the river, we paused often to take in the reflections shimmering on the water. In some streets, the sound of footsteps echoed quietly, while in others there was a gentle hum from restaurants preparing for the evening. The walk offered fleeting glimpses into Kyoto’s refined nightlife, with discreet entrances to ryōtei and teahouses, and an overall sense of elegance rather than spectacle. It felt like a curated introduction to the city’s evening rhythm, slower and more intimate than during the day.
Once we had taken in the streets and river views, we headed to dinner at Manzara, an izakaya known for its yakitori and Kyoto-style obanzai, small side dishes made from seasonal ingredients. We ordered the spicy fried gizzard with mixed nuts, potato salad with small fish, and an assortment of six kinds of obanzai. We also shared a variety of skewers, including shiitake mushrooms, onions, grilled fish with saikyo miso, and grilled eel with white soy sauce.
To accompany the meal, we tried a flight of three sakes, each with a distinct flavour and aroma, ranging from crisp and dry to smooth and slightly sweet. Tasting them alongside the different dishes added a new layer to the experience, highlighting Kyoto’s balance of delicacy and depth. Every dish was simple but full of flavour, and the warm, relaxed atmosphere made it a perfect way to end the day.
Reflections
From the peaceful paths of Fushimi Inari to the bustling streets around Kiyomizu-dera and the soft glow of Gion at night, the day was filled with contrasts that define Kyoto. Each experience, whether walking through centuries-old temples or sitting cross-legged at a tofu lunch, revealed a different layer of the city’s spirit. Southern Higashiyama is a place where Kyoto’s beauty feels both vibrant and timeless.
What would you do first in Southern Higashiyama: walk through the torii gates, explore Gion, or stop for tofu and tea?
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