This post is part of my Barcelona Neighbourhood Guides series. Fancy visiting another area of Barcelona? Check out my other guides here, including information regarding the sites, history, charm, food and drinks of the area you’re curious about.
The Eixample is a large district in Barcelona. It is located above the old parts of the city that most tourists would be familiar with (i.e. the Gothic Quarter and the Raval). In the mid-1850s, Barcelona was experiencing rapid population growth and needed to expand beyond its old city walls. Ildefons Cerdà, a Catalan engineer, was commissioned to design the new expansion, which became known as the Eixample.
The Eixample is characterised by long straight streets, a strict grid pattern crossed by wide avenues, and square blocks with chamfered corners. Cerdà’s plan was designed to improve sanitation, traffic flow, and overall livability in the city. The expansion started from the centre of the city in the 1860s, gradually expanding outwards until its completion in the early 20th century.
The Eixample is divided into six neighbourhoods, each with its own character and charm. This post covers La Dreta de l’Eixample, which starts at Plaça de Catalunya and is organised around Passeig de Gràcia. The neighbourhood is highlighted below in yellow.
Modernisme
The neighbourhood houses some of the great architectural gems of Modernisme. It’s the name given to an art and literature movement associated with the search for a new identity of Catalan culture. Its main form of expression was Modernista architecture, but it also encompassed many other arts, such as painting and sculpture, and especially the design and the decorative arts. It included poetry, too.
Modernisme was active from roughly 1888 (the First Barcelona World Fair) to 1911 (the death of Joan Maragall, the most important Modernista poet). Modernistes largely rejected bourgeois values, which they thought to be the opposite of art. Consequently, they adopted two stances: they either set themselves apart from society in a bohemian or culturalist attitude, or they attempted to use art to change society. The earliest example of Modernista architecture is the Castle of the Three Dragons, designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner in the Parc de la Ciutadella for the 1888 Barcelona Universal Exposition.
Passeig de Gràcia
The neighbourhood of La Dreta de l’Eixample surrounds Passeig de Gràcia, a major avenue in Barcelona. This avenue is at the centre stage of Barcelona’s architecture. The avenue and the surrounding area are also known as the Quadrat d’Or (Gold Square), as you can see several key examples of Modernista architecture. There is a particularly famous section of the avenue known as the Illa de la Discòrdia (Block of Discord), showcasing buildings by four of Barcelona’s most important Modernista architects in close proximity. There were more than 100 architects who made buildings of the Modernista style, three of whom are particularly well known for their outstanding buildings: Antoni Gaudí, Lluís Domènech i Montaner and Josep Puig i Cadafalch. All three are featured in the Block of Discord. Each architect’s style was quite different, and so the buildings clashed, hence the name.
The most famous house on the block is, without a doubt, Casa Batlló, designed by Antoni Gaudí. The house is considered one of his masterpieces. The local name for the building is Casa dels ossos (House of Bones), as it has a visceral, skeletal, organic quality (see photo on the left, below). It’s truly one of the most magical buildings in the world and my favourite. Its whimsical charm is hard to resist. Throughout the year, Casa Batlló have light shows to show off its incredible facade.
Next door on the left is Casa Amatller, designed by Josep Puig i Cadafalch. The building was originally constructed in 1875, then redesigned as a residence for wealthy chocolatier and archaeological enthusiast Antoni Amatller between 1898 and 1900. Amatller chocolate is a famous Barcelona brand and has a deep history with modernisme, hence the beautiful posters and designs made for it (like the poster featured at the beginning of this post). The house itself is also a masterpiece, with beautiful stained glass windows (see photo on the right, below). You can even visit their chocolate shop on the ground floor!
In 1902, Francesca Morera commissioned Lluís Domènech i Montaner to remodel the ancient “Casa Rocamora”, built in 1864. She died in 1904, and the building was named after her son, Albert Lleó i Morera, so the house is called Casa Lleó Morera.
Beyond this block is another modernisme masterpiece, Casa Milà. It was the last private residence designed by architect Antoni Gaudí and was built between 1906 and 1912. Due to its rough, almost unfinished stone look, it’s nicknamed La Pederera, which means ‘the stone quarry’. The most famous part of the building is the rooftop, where you’ll see these distinct chimneys.
Besides the beautiful architecture, Passeig de Gràcia is a huge designer shopping hub (akin to perhaps the Champs-Élysées in Paris). While all the famous international brands are somewhere along this street, I recommend visiting Barcelona’s oldest design house, Santa Eulalia, a pioneer in bringing haute couture to the city (it has been around since 1843!).
Another great thing to do is to visit one of the many rooftops in the area. The photo below is from the rooftop of La Pederera, but many hotels offer similar views.
Rambla de Catalunya
Parallel to Passeig de Gràcia is Rambla de Catalunya, one of the most central streets in Barcelona. It runs from the Diagonal down to Plaça de Catalunya. It’s sort of the equivalent of Las Ramblas, but for the Eixample. It has always been a street filled with shops, art galleries, theatres and cinemas, some of which have disappeared or been transformed over the years. In addition to two cinemas and traditional shops, there’s a wide retail offering.
Plaça de Catalunya is home to a massive El Corte Inglés, an amazing department store. My favourite part of the store is the Gourmet Food Hall in the basement, which has all sorts of amazing treats. I particularly love Niji Mochis, which sells a modern, innovative version of the Japanese rice cake. They have a stand in El Corte Inglés and a shop on Rambla de Catalunya. The yuzu flavour is my go-to!
Between Passeig de Gràcia and Rambla de Catalunya, on Carrer d’Aragó, is Museu Tàpies. It’s a museum dedicated mainly to the life and works of the painter Antoni Tàpies, a Catalan painter and sculptor born in 1923. He was well-known for his mixed-media paintings that incorporated marble dust, found objects, and resin. In 1948, Tàpies helped co-found the first post-war movement in Spain known as Dau al Set, best known for translating the conscious and unconscious mind into art, which was heavily influenced by both the Surrealist and Dadaist movements.
The Fundació opened in June 1990 in the building of the former Montaner i Simon publishing house, a work of the architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, restored and refurbished by the architects Roser Amadó and Lluís Domènech Girbau. Constructed between 1880 and 1885, at an early stage of the evolution of Catalan Modernisme style, the building was the first in the Eixample district to integrate industrial typology, combining exposed brick and iron.
Avinguda Diagonal
Going up the city (away from the sea), both Passeig de Gràcia and Rambla de Catalunya hit Avinguda Diagonal, another important street in Barcelona. It cuts the city in two, diagonally, against the grid pattern of the surrounding streets, hence the name. One of the key buildings along the street is the distinctive Casa de les Punxes.
The Diagonal has tons of restaurants along and around it, including some of my favourites. I would say some of these restaurants are the best of the best. For example, my favourite paella place in all of Barcelona, La Paella de Su, is here. I’ve been at least four times now. The decor is a bit kitsch, but the paellas are amazing. I highly recommend the La Rioja, which is with Carabineros, known as scarlet or cardinal prawns in English. They come mostly from the eastern Atlantic coast and usually live in deep water. You can find them in the waters around Portugal, Spain, France, Morocco, and down to South Africa. These prawns are prized for their impressive size, bright red colour, and robust flavour. Carabineros are the biggest prawns in the world, bigger than any shrimp. I also recommend the La Negra paella, which is known as black rice as it’s cooked with squid ink.
Below the Diagonal
The best pizza in Barcelona, and one of the best in Spain and Europe (outside Italy, of course), is also nearby: Sartoria Panatieri. In 2023, it was ranked the best pizzeria in Europe, and in 2024, it was ranked second. It was founded by Rafa Panatieri, formerly of the Michelin-starred Roca Moo (now closed). The Brazilian chef with Italian roots thought of making pizza with only Catalan products. So he created a short and to-the-point menu where the recipes are an Iberian and Catalan mirror of Italian classics, with excellent seasonal produce.
For a wonderful, modern Catalan restaurant, I can’t recommend Restaurant Embat enough. I’ve been for both dinner and Menu del Dia (weekday lunch deal), and it was amazing both times. They use excellent produce and cook everything perfectly. I love the modern twist on Catalan dishes and flavours.
For some more casual options, Bar Bosc is a newly opened bar that offers Menu del Dia and a light, casual tapas menu in the evening. They have a terrace as well as a large inside area that feels traditional yet modern.
Another good local option is Bar Cugat. I absolutely love the vibe and design of this place as it evokes the modernist era of the Eixample. You can have lunch, apéritif and even dinner here, all in a relaxed setting.
As for coffee, Onis Coffee is a good option. It’s also in a restored space, but it serves speciality coffee and some little treats. For pastries, I would go to Coush Armo, an Argentinian bakery. They have a couple of other locations, but regardless, they have really good bread and offer the best medialunas, a sweeter Argentinian croissant.
Above the Diagonal
A small part of the area above the Diagonal is still part of this neighbourhood, just before you start heading towards Gracia. One of my favourite casual eats is Restaurant Malaysian Street Delights. I honestly wasn’t expecting such amazing Malaysian food in Barcelona, but this place is incredible!
Also above the Diagonal is Can Kenji, a small Japanese restaurant with a few Catalan/Spanish influences. They have a wonderful Menu del Dia offering, where sushi can even be an option!
Finally, a new bakery has opened up in the area called Prima Salvaje. They have sourdough bread, but also delicious, flaky pastries and amazing-looking cookies. Their croissants are really good, as is the coffee!
Passeig de Sant Joan
From the Diagonal, you can walk down Passeig de Sant Joan, a major avenue in the area. It’s full of restaurants and bars and is one of my favourite streets in Barcelona. One of the most unique characteristics of this avenue is the presence of so many comic stores! Barcelona’s connection with comic strips dates back many years. Famous Catalan cartoonists have been born or grown up here. The Barcelona International Comic Fair was created in 1981. The event, which is now known as Comic Barcelona, has become one of the leading comic fairs in Europe, making important contributions to establishing the genre, particularly manga and anime. The growing interest in Japanese comics in Barcelona can be traced back to 1995, when the city hosted the first event dedicated to the genre: Manga Barcelona. Both fairs offer a wide-ranging programme of events, with personal appearances by comic book artists from around the world.
The shopping area between the Arc de Triomf, Passeig de Sant Joan and Ronda de Sant Pere is known as Barcelona’s geek triangle because of all the comic/science-fiction/geek/Japanese culture stores. The area centres around Norma Comics, founded in 1983 by the publishers Norma Editorial. It is one of the most important comic book shops in the world. It’s really fun to browse, as with all the other related shops around.
Passeig Sant Joan is also home to one of my favourite restaurants in all of Barcelona, Lluritu 3. As you can probably tell from the name, Lluritu has a few locations, with the one here being their third. It’s an incredible seafood restaurant that has the best produce.
One of the most popular spots on Passeig Sant Joan is Parking Pizza. It’s hidden within a parking garage entrance, but inside is a bustling, casual pizza place. I’ve actually never been able to get a table, but I have had their pizza for takeaway and it’s pretty good! Within the same building, they have another restaurant, Parking Pita. They serve Middle Eastern small plates to share, and of course, pitas! They’re very good, and the atmosphere is hard to beat.
My favourite gelato in Barcelona is delaCrem Creativa, which is also located on Passeig de Sant Joan. This is only their second location and the only one with a big open-plan workshop to make experimental flavours. In November, I tried their sweet potato & honey, and then their pumpkin & dulce de leche, and both were divine.
Tetuan
Paseig de Sant Joan runs all the way to Arc de Trimof, but the main section of the avenue in this neighbourhood is from the Diagonal to Plaça de Tetuan. The square is named after the 1860 Battle of Tétouan, the siege and occupation of the Moroccan city of Tetuan by General Joan Prim and Catalan volunteers. The square’s central area contains the Doctor Robert monument by the sculptor Josep Llimona. Robert was a professor of internal pathology at the University of Barcelona. He was appointed mayor of Barcelona in 1899 and elected to the Spanish Parliament in 1901.
Near Tetuan, there are two incredible coffee shops: D Origen Coffee Roasters and LOT Roasters. D Origen originated from a small coffee shop in El Albir (north of Alicante) in 2021. They then acquired the Barú Black Mountain farm in Panama. They only select coffees that have more than a score of 82 coffee cupping points, according to Speciality Coffee Association standards. The D Origen team tastes more than 500 coffees a year to select the best available.
LOT Roasters is a bean-to-bar project where they serve single-origin Peruvian chocolate and specialty coffee in their shop. Cacao and coffee have so much in common, so it’s amazing to see such a dedicated team focus on the entire cycle of these little beans that we love so much.
In the surrounding area of Tetuan, there’s a great bar called Noumades, which offers great craft beers. I must admit it’s not that easy to find well-priced, non-sports-heavy but good beer bars in Barcelona, but this one hits the spot for me!
Another great place to try out is Funky Bakers. They started out as a bakery in El Born, but they’ve now expanded to the Eixample with a deli and eatery (next door to each other). I’ve been to the deli, where you can get coffee, pastries and sandwiches. It’s also a gourmet grocery store, so it’s really fun to look around and see what special goodies they have from around the world.
Pedestrian Streets
A wonderful feature of the Dreta de l’Eixample neighbourhood is the increasing presence of pedestrianised streets. This is part of Barcelona’s green urban planning, which includes not only pedestrianising streets but also creating more ‘ramblas’. There is also the concept of superilles, or superblocks. Take 9 blocks on a 3×3 grid. Close all the inner streets to cars and divert all traffic to the outer streets. The 40-acre result is a superblock, meaning a small neighbourhood with very few cars, lots of people out and about, and plenty of shrubs and trees. It’s a beautiful way to make the city greener, healthier and more people-centric.
One of the new pedestrianised streets is Carrer de Girona, which runs vertically from the sea to the mountains. It’s part of the characteristic urban layout of the Eixample. Carrer Girona still retains some important landmark buildings, particularly from the modernisme period. The Cafè del Centre restaurant, opened in 1873 as a casino, is one of the oldest operating modernist cafes in Barcelona. Besides being a beautiful setting, they also have amazing food! It gets very popular during Spanish meal times, so try to go at an odd hour or for an early dinner.
Another pedestrianised street is Carrer del Consell de Cent. It is a horizontal street that runs across the entire Eixample. The central 20 blocks have been converted into a ‘living street’, meaning a pedestrianised one. I walked this street during the week on my way to work, and it’s such a lovely way to cross the Eixample.
And so concludes my master guide to the Dreta de L’Eixample. It’s a wonderful neighbourhood that has lots of things to see, do, eat, and drink! I absolutely love it here, and I hope you will too if you haven’t visited already. Stay tuned for more Barcelona neighbourhood guides.
What do you think of this bustling and lively neighbourhood? Are you a modernisme fan?
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