Travel

There and Back Again: A New York Layover to Remember

I’ve been visiting New York City since I was a teenager. I still remember my very first trip: 16 years old, braces on, curly frizzy dark brown hair, and wide-eyed with excitement. My aunt, who lives on the Upper West Side not far from Lincoln Center, had invited me to stay. I fell in love with the city almost immediately. After that, I visited her and my uncle nearly every summer.

I took Victor for the first time in 2015, in March of all months (it was really cold!). I went again that August, and once more in October when his parents came to visit New York for the first time. After that, life got busy and the trips paused.

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One of my dad’s long-held retirement dreams was to sail across the Atlantic on the Queen Mary 2, from New York City to Southampton. In the summer of 2023, that dream became a reality, and the whole family came together to make it happen. I hadn’t been back to New York since 2015, so it was about time.

A Rocky Start Across the Pond

My family travelled up from Virginia, while Victor and I flew in from London to meet them in New York. Sounds simple enough, right? Well, not quite. We boarded a Norse Atlantic Airways flight out of London on time, excited for the short trip stateside. But about an hour into the flight, the pilot came on the speaker with an announcement no one wants to hear: there was a mechanical malfunction. They couldn’t figure out how to fix it, and didn’t want to risk flying over the Atlantic. So we had to turn around and head back to London. Everyone on the plane agreed that it was the right choice, but it was still a frustrating experience. We ended up arriving at JFK at 20:04, which was 4 hours and 14 minutes later than our scheduled arrival time of 15:50. Because of the delay, we had to miss a concert at the Village Vanguard. Unfortunately, the tickets were non-refundable.

Still, we tried to make the best of it. After landing, we headed downtown and grabbed a late-night slice of pizza around 11:30 pm. The pizza was extremely salty, but after a day like that, it hit the spot and gave us a fun, silly moment to kick off the trip.

Breakfast at Russ & Daughters

The next morning, we met up with my family and started our New York City adventure with breakfast at Russ & Daughters, a classic institution famous for its smoked fish, bagels, and traditional Jewish deli fare. Walking into their bright, bustling storefront felt like stepping into a piece of the city’s history.

Victor and I shared an open-faced sandwich, a bagel classic: Gaspe Nova smoked salmon with cream cheese, topped with tomato, onion, and capers. Alongside that, we shared the herring plate, an assortment of Russ & Daughters’ herring served with a trio of sauces and pumpernickel bread. The flavours were incredible, perfectly balanced, and it was the ideal way to fuel up for a day of exploring.

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Then we stopped by Supermoon Bakehouse, a trendy bakery known for its creative pastries and vibrant flavours. We picked up a little something sweet to enjoy later.

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Exploring Little Italy and Chinatown

We then strolled through Little Italy, one of New York’s most charming and historic neighbourhoods. The narrow streets were alive with the scent of fresh espresso, garlic, and baked pastries wafting from cosy cafes and bakeries. The storefronts were adorned with colourful awnings and hand-painted signs, inviting passersby to step inside and enjoy authentic Italian fare.

Little Italy still carries the warmth and spirit of the Italian immigrants who settled here decades ago, and it’s easy to imagine the stories behind every corner. Even though the neighbourhood has shrunk over the years, its vibrant energy remains intact.

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Leaving Little Italy behind, we wandered into Chinatown, a bustling and vibrant neighbourhood full of energy and colour. The streets were alive with the sounds of vendors calling out, the chatter of shoppers, and the clatter of woks from nearby kitchens. Bright red lanterns hung overhead, swaying gently in the breeze, while storefronts displayed rows of exotic fruits, fresh seafood, and aromatic spices.

We passed herbal shops with shelves lined with dried roots and teas, bakeries with trays of steamed buns and egg tarts, and markets where locals bargained for the freshest ingredients. The vibrant atmosphere was a sensory feast, full of enticing smells, lively sights, and rich cultural history.

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Discovering the Financial District

After exploring Chinatown, we made our way to the Financial District, a neighbourhood where the energy of the city’s hustle and history collide. Towering skyscrapers and sleek office buildings rise alongside landmarks steeped in American history.

Our first stop was South Street Seaport, where the waterfront offered a refreshing contrast to the city’s busy streets. The historic ships and cobblestone streets gave the area a charming, old-world feel.

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From there, we walked over to Wall Street, the iconic heart of the financial world. Standing near the famous Charging Bull statue, you could feel the pulse of the market, even if the trading floor was miles away.

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Just a few blocks away, we visited Trinity Church, a peaceful Gothic Revival sanctuary surrounded by the buzz of downtown. Despite the skyscrapers surrounding it, the churchyard feels quiet and still. We walked through the historic cemetery, where one of the most well-known names in American history is laid to rest, Alexander Hamilton. His grave, marked with a simple yet dignified stone, is a popular spot for visitors and history buffs.

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We continued down to Battery Park, where the open space and views of the harbour provided a welcome moment of calm. From this vantage point, you could see the Statue of Liberty in the distance, a symbol of hope and freedom that resonates deeply in this historic part of the city.

Our visit wrapped up at the 9/11 Memorial, a solemn and powerful tribute that invites reflection. The twin reflecting pools, set within the footprints of the original towers, serve as a poignant reminder of resilience and remembrance.

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Late Lunch at Café Habana

We made our way to Nolita, a quieter, trendier pocket of downtown Manhattan nestled just north of Little Italy. With its tree-lined streets, boutique shops, and laid-back vibe, it was the perfect place to slow down.

Around 3 pm, we took a break for a late lunch in Nolita at Café Habana, a lively Cuban-Mexican spot known for its famous grilled corn. We obviously had to get the corn, and it was delicious. Their corn is coated in mayo, cotija cheese, chilli powder, and finished with a squeeze of fresh lime. Victor and my brother went for heartier, meatier dishes, while I had a fresh salad with mixed greens, roasted corn, crispy tortilla strips, shredded cabbage and carrots, and a citrus-infused olive oil dressing, topped with grilled shrimp. We also shared their house lime-lemonade, which was perfectly tangy and refreshing after a long morning on our feet.

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We then stopped by La Cabra, a minimalist, Scandinavian-style coffee shop with a calm and welcoming vibe. La Cabra has a reputation for precision and balance, and it lived up to the hype. Their coffee was amazing. We noted they have a second location, a bakery, not too far away, so we committed to visiting it the next morning for breakfast.

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Art at the Whitney

Caffeinated and recharged, we made our way to the Whitney Museum of American Art, located in the Meatpacking District, right at the start of the High Line. The museum’s modern design, with its sweeping terraces and clean lines, was striking from the outside, and inside, the galleries were filled with bold, thought-provoking works by American artists.

We wandered through a range of exhibitions, from contemporary installations to mid-century classics. The Whitney’s focus on American art made the experience feel grounded and relevant, especially with pieces that reflected on identity, politics, and the shifting cultural landscape of the U.S.

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One of the highlights was stepping out onto the museum’s outdoor terraces. From there, we had sweeping views of the Hudson River and downtown skyline.

The Whitney was a great midpoint to the day, offering both inspiration and a bit of quiet, contemplative space before we headed back outside to walk the High Line.

Stroll Along the High Line and Milk Bar Treats

From there, we walked along the High Line and took in the elevated views and public art installations.

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We made a dessert stop at Milk Bar on Broadway, which I had been looking forward to for ages. I got the cereal milk soft serve with cornflake crunch on top. As a lifelong cereal fan, I was thrilled. It tasted exactly how I hoped it would. My younger brother got the same, but with chocolate. After one bite, he looked at me and said, “Nope, this is wrong.” He hated it. Isn’t it funny how taste can be so personal?

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That evening, we met up with my aunt, who lives in Manhattan, for dinner in the Rockefeller Center complex. It was a great way to end a packed day.

Wrapping It Up

The next morning, we started our day with, as promised, breakfast at La Cabra Bakery on 2nd Avenue. Victor and I shared a croissant and a seasonal pastry, which was a bun filled with chamomile custard and peach jam, dusted with vanilla sugar and freeze-dried raspberry powder. It was amazing. The coffee was excellent again, too.

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We spent the rest of the morning walking through Central Park, enjoying the calm before the next phase of our journey. I don’t know how many times I’ve walked through Central Park now, but every time I do, it’s a wonderful experience. How can anyone become tired of this park? It’s one of the most iconic parts of New York City.

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We grabbed lunch near our hotel and at a Mexican restaurant, then headed back to collect our bags and make our way to the cruise terminal. It was time to board the Queen Mary 2 and begin the second part of our adventure across the Atlantic. Stay tuned!


What more could you pack into 48 hours in NYC?

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