Istanbul is a city like no other. Straddling Europe and Asia, it offers a blend of history, culture, food, and everyday life that is both vibrant and unforgettable. I spent three days exploring its mosques, palaces, neighbourhoods, and waterfronts, and every moment brought something new.
We arrived in Istanbul on a Friday evening in May and checked into our hotel, located just 150 meters from the Blue Mosque in the lively Sultanahmet district. After dropping off our bags, we set out for a nighttime wander. Passing the illuminated Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia felt magical, but before long, the sky opened and heavy rain sent us back to the hotel for a good night’s rest.
The Blue Mosque
After breakfast at the hotel, we set out early for the Blue Mosque, also known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque. Approaching from the outside, the first thing that struck me was the grand courtyard. Surrounded by graceful arcades and dominated by a central fountain, it felt like stepping into a tranquil space that separated the everyday city from the sacred interior. The scale of the courtyard mirrored that of the mosque itself, giving a sense of balance and symmetry that was impressive even before we stepped inside.
Once we entered the mosque, the atmosphere changed completely. The light filtered in softly through stained-glass windows, illuminating thousands of intricate blue İznik tiles that give the mosque its famous name. The soaring domes and semi-domes above seemed to float, supported by massive columns that disappeared into shadow. The patterns and calligraphy on the walls added to the sense of reverence, while the carpet underfoot gave a feeling of warmth and quiet.
Topkapi Palace
From the Blue Mosque, we made our way to the sprawling grounds of the Topkapi Palace Museum, the former residence of the Ottoman sultans. Entering through the grand gate felt like stepping back into the height of the empire. Our first stop was the Harem, a section of the palace that is both architecturally stunning and full of intrigue.
The Harem was the private living quarters of the sultan, his family, and the many concubines and attendants who lived there. Walking through its labyrinth of corridors and chambers, we passed beautifully tiled walls, ornate domed ceilings, and latticed windows that allowed privacy while still letting in the light. The rooms varied from intimate sitting areas to grand reception halls, each decorated in rich colours and patterns that spoke of luxury and power.
Beyond the Harem, the palace seemed to stretch endlessly. Courtyards opened into more courtyards, each with fountains, gardens, and galleries filled with treasures. From jewelled thrones to ceremonial weapons and holy relics, the collections displayed the wealth and influence of the Ottoman Empire. The views from the terraces overlooking the Bosphorus were equally breathtaking, a reminder of how strategically placed the palace was at the heart of the empire.
We spent about three to three and a half hours exploring, yet it still felt like we only scratched the surface. Topkapi Palace is not just a museum but an entire world, one that offers a glimpse into the daily lives and immense power of the sultans who once ruled here.
A Sweet Break at Cafer Ağa Madrasa
By midday, we needed a snack before continuing, so we stopped at Cafer Ağa Madrasa. The café served Turkish tea, baklava, and semolina halva, which turned out to be especially delicious. On the walk back, I could not resist fresh pomegranate juice from a street vendor.
Basilica Cistern
Our next stop was my favourite place in Istanbul, the Basilica Cistern, with its mysterious underground chambers and glowing columns. Built in the 6th century during the reign of Emperor Justinian I, the cistern was designed to store water for the Great Palace and surrounding buildings. Today, it feels almost like stepping onto a film set, with its vaulted ceilings and endless rows of columns. Among the highlights are the two famous Medusa heads, used as column bases and placed sideways and upside down, perhaps to ward off evil or simply as a practical reuse of stone.
Walking through the raised platforms above the water, I felt both awe and tranquillity. It is not only an engineering marvel of its time but also one of the most magical and mysterious spaces in the city. Without a doubt, it became my favourite place in Istanbul.
Lunch at Hocapaşa Pidecisi
By three o’clock, we were ready for lunch at Hocapaşa Pidecisi. Watching the bakers prepare the dough was a treat in itself. I ordered a round cheese pide topped with a fried egg, while Victor had a minced meat and cheese pide. Both came with pickles, and we shared an ayran, a refreshing yoghurt drink that I immediately loved.
Spice Bazaar
After lunch, we wandered through the Egyptian Bazaar, also known as the Spice Bazaar. The air was thick with the scent of cumin, saffron, and dried herbs, and the stalls overflowed with colourful displays of spices, teas, dried fruits, and Turkish delight. Vendors called out warmly, offering samples and drawing us into conversation.
Fener & Balat
We then crossed the river to catch a ferry to the colourful neighbourhoods of Fener and Balat. These districts are among the oldest in Istanbul and are famous for their steep cobbled streets, brightly painted wooden houses, and eclectic mix of cultures.
Walking here felt very different from the grand mosques and bustling bazaars of central Istanbul. Laundry hung between buildings, children played in the streets, and small cafés spilt onto the sidewalks. Every corner seemed to reveal a splash of colour or a quirky mural, making it a photographer’s dream.
Dinner at Agora Meyhanesi 1890
Dinner was at Agora Meyhanesi 1890, a traditional Turkish tavern, or meyhane, where the evening is centred around meze, conversation, and drink. In Turkey, the classic drink of choice at a meyhane is rakı, often called “lion’s milk” because of its milky white colour when mixed with water. Made from distilled grapes and flavoured with anise, it has a strong, distinctive flavour that pairs perfectly with the wide array of meze dishes that accompany it.
The ritual of drinking rakı is as important as the drink itself. It is sipped slowly, usually with food, and always in the company of others. Glasses are raised frequently in toasts, and the pace of the meal is unhurried, encouraging conversation and laughter to flow as easily as the drink. Around us, tables were filled with friends and families sharing platters of olives, cheeses, grilled vegetables, and seafood, while the atmosphere grew warmer and livelier as the evening went on.
It was the perfect way to end our first full day in Istanbul, not just with a meal, but with an experience that felt deeply tied to Turkish culture and hospitality.
Reflections
Our first full day in Istanbul took us through stunning mosques, palaces, and vibrant neighbourhoods. But the city has so much more to offer. In Part 2, we continue our journey beyond Sultanahmet, exploring Hagia Sophia, the Archaeology Museums, the lively streets of Beyoğlu, the historic Pera Palace, and a scenic Bosphorus adventure.
Istanbul’s layers of history and culture await – join us for the next chapter!
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