Luang Prabang, with its serene temples and charming streets, serves as an excellent base for exploring the natural and cultural treasures of northern Laos. Venturing beyond the town, a variety of enriching day trips await. From the mystical depths of the Pak Ou Caves, where thousands of Buddha images reside, to the vibrant tapestry of local villages showcasing traditional crafts, there’s an adventure to suit every traveller. Among the most popular are excursions to the captivating Kuang Si Falls and visits to the Elephant Conservation Center, offering a unique opportunity to ethically interact with these majestic creatures in their natural habitat. These experiences provide a deeper immersion into the beauty and biodiversity that surrounds this UNESCO World Heritage city. Let’s dive in!
After spending one entire day in Luang Prabang, we decided for our second day to venture out on a day trip to the aforementioned Kuang Si Falls, which is nestled approximately 29 kilometres south of Luang Prabang, Laos. This multi-tiered cascade is renowned for its stunning turquoise waters that tumble down a series of limestone formations, creating picturesque pools perfect for a refreshing dip. Surrounded by lush, verdant jungle, Kuang Si Falls offers a tranquil and enchanting escape, making it a must-visit destination for travellers seeking natural beauty in Southeast Asia.
We got a ride to the falls, which was about an hour’s drive. Once you reach the site, you’re dropped off at the entrance to pay for your ticket. The ticket price for entrance to Kuang Si Falls is 60,000 kip per person. The entrance fee covers: a shuttle bus to the falls, entrance to the Kuang Si Waterfall Park and a visit to the Free the Bears Rescue Centre.
Once you’re in, you start walking up a winding mud path. You’ll actually walk past the Bears Rescue Centre, where you may even see some bears. Free the Bears is a rescue charity that takes in orphaned and rescued moon bears and gives them a safe place to live as well as, where possible, rehabilitating them for release in the wild. The bears live in large enclosures with viewing platforms and windows for visitors. After admiring the bears, we continued up the path. We decided to go straight up to the main waterfall, to then make our way back slowly through the other sets of waterfalls. This was in an effort to beat the crowds, and I can confirm it worked!
Beyond the mesmerising sight of the main falls, visitors can explore a jungle trail that meanders alongside the cascading water, offering different perspectives of the stunning scenery.
The lower levels of Kuang Si Falls feature several accessible pools with their signature turquoise hue, inviting visitors to cool off in the natural swimming areas. I dipped my legs in the water, but couldn’t bring myself to a full swim. Victor, on the other hand, dove right in!
Our day at Kuang Si Falls provided a welcome escape into the heart of nature’s artistry. From the gentle pools at the lower levels to the majestic rush of the main waterfall, every corner offered a scene of breathtaking beauty. It was a place to breathe deeply, to connect with the natural world, and to simply marvel at the stunning turquoise waters. For anyone visiting Luang Prabang seeking a dose of natural wonder and a refreshing escape, Kuang Si Falls promises an unforgettable experience.
The Elephant Conservation Center
About three hours southwest of Luang Prabang is a wonderful place that is very dear to my heart: the Elephant Conservation Center (ECC). Their two key programmes are (i) reherding and rewilding elephants and (ii) monitoring and managing the second largest wild elephant group of Laos in the Nam Pouy National Park. This is a really important part of their story as it sets them apart from other elephant rescue centres or sanctuaries. They exist to preserve the elephant population, with the ultimate goal of them being to go back to the wild.
The ECC opened to the public, and at the time, it was home to only one elephant. By 2017, the ECC had 13 elephants on its property. In early 2018, the Government of Laos stopped the illegal sale of 12 elephants to an overseas buyer, deciding instead to send them to the ECC. At the same time, the government gave more land to the ECC. Today, the ECC’s 34 elephants have access to 6,000 hectares of forest and have become the largest herd of elephants under human care in Laos.
The ECC offers two overnight stays for visitors, either one night or two nights. We chose one night as we were relatively limited on time in Laos, but I would’ve chosen two nights if I could’ve! We were driven three hours away from Luang Prabang, arriving at a lake. We then took a boat to land on an island (an elephant one!).
Fitting perfectly within its natural surroundings, the ECC offers simple, yet practical, accommodation. The impact on the surroundings is considered, and accommodation is provided in traditional bamboo bungalow huts overlooking the lake. There are shared bathrooms, and all meals are catered and shared in an open-air, communal dining hall.
After checking into our bungalow, we hiked to a waterfront shelter on the lake for lunch. This is at the edge of the elephant nursery set-up. It was an absolute joy to observe the adult and baby elephants as they socialised and drank from the lake.
We then visited the Elephant Hospital and Treatment Area, where we learned the amount of care required to look after these magnificent creatures. We also learned about the complex nature of elephant breeding. Unfortunately, one of the main issues relating to elephants in Laos is the low natality rate within an ageing population. With only 2 births for 10 deaths annually, in Laos, these challenges must be addressed. The ECC uses a mix of traditional mahout knowledge and the latest tech research in their reproduction programme.
After visiting the clinic, we went a short distance away for snack time. We observed the elephants munching away and also being a bit playful with their mahouts. These dedicated caretakers forge deep bonds with their elephants, employing traditional knowledge and gentle guidance in their daily care.
Our last elephant-related activity of the day was going on a walk with a few of the elephants and their mahouts. I love this kind of activity as it’s nice to be a quiet, gentle observer while the elephants just go about doing what they do best.
After saying goodbye to the elephants for the day, we decided to squeeze in one more activity before dinner: kayaking! It was lots of fun to kayak around the lake, especially in such a remote and quiet area.
Following breakfast the next morning, we hiked further into the forest to greet the elephants. We shared a gentle morning walk with them before they moved to a large enclosure where they could interact with other members of their kind. Observing their interactions from an elevated viewpoint underscored another vital aspect of the ECC’s mission. Many of the elephants rescued by the ECC have endured years of isolation, a deeply damaging experience for these profoundly social animals. The ECC works diligently to heal these emotional wounds by facilitating the formation of new family units and lasting bonds. This careful reintroduction to herd life is a crucial stage in the ECC’s ultimate aspiration: to prepare a cohesive group of elephants for their eventual return to the wild.
Saying goodbye to the elephants and the ECC was a bittersweet moment. We boarded our boat once more, crossed the tranquil lake, and began our journey back to Luang Prabang. Leaving this special place was hard, yet I carried with me a newfound depth of knowledge and understanding regarding the lives of elephants in Laos and the complex issues they confront. I left with a heartfelt hope to witness their continued success story unfold over time.
Up next is my visit to the wild and wonderful Vang Vieng — stay tuned!
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