After a few days exploring Hakone, it was time to move on to Osaka. We took the Romancecar to Odawara Station, where the station’s many bento stalls caught our attention. The sheer variety was amazing — beautifully arranged boxes filled with rice, pickles, grilled fish, and other delicacies, each one like a miniature work of art. We picked out two different bento boxes for the journey, along with some smoked eggs, a specialty from Owakudani.
From Odawara, we boarded the Shinkansen to Shin-Osaka. The train ride was fast and comfortable, allowing us to rest while watching the scenery shift from misty mountains and winding rivers to the sprawling urban landscape of Osaka. Arriving in the city in the early evening, the bright lights, bustling streets, and lively energy felt instantly exciting. We could not wait to dive into the food, culture, and neon-lit streets that Osaka is famous for.
First Evening in Osaka
Once we settled into our hotel, we headed out to explore Dotonbori. The streets were alive with neon lights, enormous restaurant signs, and the irresistible smells of sizzling street food. We saw the famous Glico running man, glowing reflections in the canal, and many giant octopus sculptures protruding from takoyaki stalls. The atmosphere was chaotic and vibrant, a perfect introduction to Osaka.
Victor’s parents decided to return to the hotel for some rest, but Victor and I stayed out a little longer. We found a small bar called Jack’s Inn, a traditional spot with no menu and very little English. The bartender was welcoming, and the bar was full of locals enjoying their evening. The drinks were excellent, and the atmosphere felt intimate and authentic.
By around 10pm, hunger called again. We headed to Konamondokoro Mitsukuni, a tucked-away okonomiyaki restaurant. Okonomiyaki is a savoury Japanese pancake made from a batter of flour, egg, and shredded cabbage, cooked on a teppan with a variety of ingredients. It is then brushed with tangy sauce, drizzled with mayonnaise, and topped with bonito flakes. We ordered two versions: the Shrimp Hirayaki, more like an omelette filled with shrimp and served on a bed of cabbage, and the Okonomiyaki Seafood Special, a traditional pancake topped with grilled squid, shrimp, and scallops. Both were hearty, flavorful, and the perfect late-night meal to end our first evening.
Exploring Osaka Castle and Umeda Sky Building
The next morning, we walked to Boulangerie & Café Gout for breakfast. All the signs were in Japanese, so we picked pastries by sight, which made it fun. We enjoyed a raspberry danish, Japanese-style French toast, a kouign-amann, and a sesame red bean bun, paired with coffee.
From there, we walked about thirty minutes to the Otemon Gate of Osaka Castle. The castle grounds were peaceful in the morning, with colourful trees reflecting in the moats. The castle itself is an iconic landmark built in the late 1500s by Toyotomi Hideyoshi and reconstructed in the 20th century. Walking around the stone walls and grand towers, it was easy to imagine the history and importance of this site in Japan’s unification.
After exploring, we took the Osaka Loop Line from Morinomiya Station to Osaka Station and walked to the Umeda Sky Building. The queue was long, but the 360-degree city views from the open-air observation deck were spectacular. We could see Osaka stretching endlessly, a mix of historic neighbourhoods and modern skyscrapers.
By 2pm, it was time for a late lunch. Because it was Sunday, many nearby restaurants were closed, but we found Osaka Ramen Kiraku Shinumeda, where the broth was rich and comforting and the noodles perfectly chewy.
After lunch, we explored the Pokémon Center and Nintendo Store at Osaka Station. It was a delight to see all the themed merchandise, and I picked up a few souvenirs.
The Lights of Dotonbori
Later in the afternoon, we returned to Dotonbori to explore some more. The streets were full of life, with people spilling out of shops, food stalls sizzling, and the smell of grilled seafood and fried batter in the air. Every corner buzzed with energy, the kind that makes Osaka instantly feel alive and unforgettable.
As we wandered further, we were met with Dotonbori’s famous food signs. Giant 3D sculptures of crabs, octopus, gyoza, and bowls of ramen loomed overhead, each one brighter and bolder than the next. The streets felt like a carnival of colour and light, where food and fun blended together in perfect harmony.
Just a short turn away from all the noise, we found Hōzen-ji Temple, a small moss-covered shrine hidden down a quiet alley. Lanterns hung softly above, and visitors stopped to pour ladles of water over the temple’s green statue of Fudō Myōō, the guardian deity. The stillness of the temple offered a peaceful contrast to the surrounding chaos, a reminder that even in Osaka’s liveliest districts, moments of calm still exist.
For dinner, we took Victor’s parents to a casual local spot that we had noticed the night before. The restaurant looked like a lively beer hall, packed with young people enjoying the food and drinks. We shared okonomiyaki, takoyaki, and yakisoba, all perfectly cooked and full of flavour. After dinner, Victor’s parents returned to the hotel, while we decided to find another bar.
We wandered into the Sennichimae area and discovered a small whiskey bar called Bar on Google. The bartender was friendly, and the place was filled with locals. The drinks were excellent, reasonably priced, and the bar had a warm, welcoming vibe — a perfect spot to unwind after a long day of sightseeing and food adventures.
A Morning of Shrines, Gardens, and Local Finds
The next morning, we took the Midosuji Line from Yodoyabashi Station to Namba Station and visited Namba Yasaka Jinja, famous for its massive lion head stage that is believed to swallow evil spirits and bring good luck. The scale of the structure and the intricate details were stunning.
From there, we walked to Namba Parks, an urban shopping centre with beautifully terraced gardens. The greenery offered a quiet pause from the busy city streets. After exploring the gardens, we stopped by Sakimoto Bakery, known for its soft, buttery bread. I tried a few pastries and everything was perfect for a mid-morning treat.
Next, we visited Sennichimae Doguyasuji Shopping Street, a 150-meter-long arcade lined with specialty kitchen stores. From knives to pans to unique tableware, it felt like a paradise for anyone who loves cooking. We stopped at a knife shop and watched as the craftsman engraved Victor’s name in Japanese on the blade, a really special experience. We also picked up some beautiful chopsticks to take home as souvenirs.
Exploring Shinsekai’s Retro Charm
After finishing our shopping, we headed to Shinsekai, a neighbourhood with a retro atmosphere and nostalgic Showa-era charm. Built in 1912, Shinsekai, which means “New World,” was originally designed to represent a vision of the future, inspired partly by Paris and partly by New York’s Coney Island. Over time, it has transformed into one of Osaka’s most characterful districts, filled with bright neon signs, small eateries, and a slightly faded yet endearing charm that locals and visitors both love.
We stopped for lunch at Osho Club, a kushiage and kushikatsu restaurant, where we enjoyed deep-fried skewers and local flavours in a lively setting.
After eating, we wandered through the surrounding streets, soaking in the carnival-like energy. The smell of fried food filled the air, old shopfronts were decorated with colourful lanterns, and Tsutenkaku Tower stood tall above it all, a nostalgic symbol of the area’s past and resilience.
After a couple of busy days exploring Osaka, we packed in as much as we could, from grand shrines and rooftop gardens to bustling shopping streets and retro neighbourhoods. The city’s vibrant energy, colourful streets, and unique local flavours left a lasting impression. As we headed back to our hotel to collect our luggage and continue to Kyoto, we felt like we had only scratched the surface of what Osaka has to offer.
What hidden corners of this lively city would you love to explore?
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