This post is part of my London Neighbourhood Guides series. Fancy visiting another area of London? Check out my other guides here, which all include information regarding the sights, history, charm, food and drinks of the area you’re curious about.
It has now been a few months since Victor and I moved out of our small flat in Stoke Newington, London. It was bittersweet as we were excited to move on (to Barcelona, no less), but we have such fond memories of this home and area. We moved to Stoke Newington in October 2018. It was the first flat I lived in where it was just us, and that felt quite special. We had been living north of Great Portland Street station, just off Regent’s Park, which was a wonderful, central location, but we had simply had enough of sharing a space with another couple. I had never visited Stoke Newington before viewing flats here, but in my mind, I knew I really wanted to live here. I’m very excited to share with you my guide to one of my favourite neighbourhoods in London!
The map below shows the boundaries of the Borough of Hackney, and the areas highlighted in yellow are those that I cover in this post, Stoke Newington and Clissold.
High Street
If you find yourself in Dalston and keep heading north along the High Street, you’ll eventually arrive in Stoke Newington. While nearby Church Street is known for its chic, hipster vibe, the High Street resists full gentrification. It holds on to practical staples like Savers, Sainsbury’s, Wetherspoon’s, and Sports Direct—classic fixtures of a real English high street. It wasn’t truly a “London high street,” though, until a Pret opened recently (boo!).
Stoke Newington has long been home to thriving Turkish, West Indian, and Jewish communities. This rich cultural mix is reflected in the many Turkish and Kurdish restaurants, all-hours corner shops selling everything and nothing, and the Kosher grocery stores that line the street. Best Turkish Kebab and the 24-hour bagel shop are both essential institutions for late-night or early-morning cravings.
Of course, no high street would be complete without a chippy—and in true Stokey style, it’s a bit more elevated. Sutton & Sons offers classic fish and chips, plus oysters and other sustainably sourced seafood from their own fishmonger just across the street. I’ve had many fried haddock and what might be the best chips in London there over the years.
Other local favourites include The Yellow Warbler, a long-standing café that recently changed owners (who seem lovely, by the way). For a pint, there are two reliable pubs: The Jolly Butchers and The Axe, both favourites among locals.
In recent years, a wave of new openings has boosted the High Street’s appeal to Gen Z and beyond. WAVE (the second location of a popular vegan café) and Next Door Records Two (a sibling to the original record shop-bar hybrid) are two notable additions.
One standout that transcends trendiness, however, is Sonora Taquería—a place that genuinely appeals to everyone. Their tacos are, quite possibly, the best in all of London. They have a few veggie options too!
Abney Park
Stokey is lucky to have Abney Park Cemetery, a strikingly atmospheric green space that’s also one of London’s Magnificent Seven garden cemeteries. These seven cemeteries were built in the 19th century in response to the capital’s rapid population growth and the strain it placed on inner-city graveyards. In 1800, London had a population of around one million; by 1850, it had more than doubled. To relieve the overcrowding, Parliament passed a bill in 1832 authorising the creation of privately operated garden cemeteries on the city’s outskirts. Between 1832 and 1841, seven cemeteries opened—Abney Park among them.
Today, these cemeteries are known for their wild gardens and Victorian Gothic architecture. Abney Park stands out for its compact size, which brings the tombstones and trees into closer proximity. This gives it an almost enchanted feel—beautiful, slightly eerie, and unusually peaceful. It’s also far leafier than most, having originally been designed as an arboretum, with a wide variety of trees planted among the graves.
By the mid-20th century, the cemetery had reached capacity and fallen into disrepair. It remained in a state of neglect for decades, but in 2024, it underwent a major restoration. It now features a welcoming entrance with a café, community rooms, and workshop spaces. The central chapel has also been beautifully restored and is once again hosting events, breathing new life into this unique corner of Stoke Newington.
Church Street
If anyone in London knows Stoke Newington, they likely know Church Street. This village-like high street is at the heart of what makes “Stokey” so beloved. With its leafy charm and strong sense of local character, Church Street offers a slower pace that feels miles away from central London, even though it’s just a few stops from the city.
What makes this street special is its independent spirit. Most of the shops and food spots aren’t chains, but thoughtfully curated local businesses. There’s a classic mix of staples—a bakery, a butcher, a bookshop, a pub—alongside a rotating cast of boutiques and cafes that keep things interesting. It’s also one of the best places in North London to find a gift. Whether you’re shopping for a friend, a child, or just yourself, you’ll find something a little different here. For kitchen lovers, Kitchen Provisions and Prep are treasure troves. For kids, What Mother Made stocks adorable handmade clothing and toys. Then there’s Search & Rescue, Nook (my personal favourite), and Know & Love—all full of beautifully curated homewares and design-forward gifts. Don’t forget to swing by Earlybird Designs for cards and wrapping paper that are way more fun than your standard supermarket aisle.
When it comes to food and drink, Church Street really shines. One of my favourite affordable gastropubs in London is The Clarence Tavern, which delivers on both atmosphere and outstanding seasonal dishes.
For something a bit livelier, The Auld Shillelagh is hands-down the best Irish pub in London. It’s narrow, always buzzing, and pours a perfect pint of Guinness every time. It’s the kind of place where you might pop in for one and stay all night.
If you’re after food (though The Clarence Tavern is a great option), there’s no shortage of excellent options:
- The Good Egg is perfect for brunch or dinner, especially if you’re into Middle Eastern-inspired plates.
- Vicoli di Napoli serves up proper Neapolitan pizza in a relaxed setting.
- Rasa is a longtime neighbourhood favourite serving vibrant South Indian vegetarian dishes—don’t skip the dosas.
Clissold Park
Just a short stroll from Church Street is Clissold Park, one of the loveliest green spaces in North London. It’s the kind of park that feels like a true part of the neighbourhood—always full of joggers, picnickers, dog walkers, and families. There’s a small menagerie with goats and deer, a beautiful pond with ducks and swans, and plenty of shady paths for a quiet walk.
At its heart is Clissold House, an elegant 18th-century mansion that now houses a café with great views over the park. It’s the perfect place to unwind after a meal or to grab a coffee and sit in the sun.
Back Streets of Stokey
Just behind the bustle of Church Street and the High Street, the back streets of Stoke Newington reveal another layer of charm. Quiet rows of terraced townhouses line leafy lanes, giving the neighbourhood a relaxed, residential feel. Tucked among them are some real hidden gems.
Esters is my favourite brunch spot in all of London—not your typical eggs-and-avocado fare, but thoughtful, seasonal dishes I genuinely crave every day.
Nearby, Romeo & Giulietta has the best gelato in all of London, even better than some of the places I’ve tried in Italy (they are Italian anyway, so don’t come after me!). Seriously, their supreme pistachio is so good!
For drinks, The Shakespeare is a proper local pub with a welcoming vibe, and The Luminary is a stylish café and bakery run by a social enterprise that supports women from disadvantaged backgrounds—a lovely place to support and enjoy.
Stoke Newington is one of those rare London neighbourhoods that manages to feel both tucked away and full of life. Whether you’re here for a lazy stroll through Clissold Park, a deep dive into local shops on Church Street, or just a really good brunch tucked down a quiet back street, there’s something quietly special about this part of the city. It doesn’t shout for attention, but instead invites you to slow down, explore, and settle into its rhythm. If you haven’t spent time in Stokey yet, consider this your sign.
Looking for another London neighbourhood to explore? Check out my post on Hackney Central.
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