This past July, my partner and I decided to escape for a weekend in York, a city where history meets charm at every corner. With its medieval streets, iconic city walls, and cosy cafes, York is the perfect mix of culture, architecture, and culinary delights.
Over two days, we explored winding alleys, walked the ancient city walls, indulged in some of the city’s best food and drinks, and discovered little hidden gems along the way. From the grandeur of York Minster to the quirky charm of the Shambles, our weekend was full of history, flavours, and fun moments that we will remember for a long time.
Here’s how we spent our summer weekend in this unforgettable city.
York Minster and the City Walls
We arrived in York on a bright Saturday morning, full of anticipation for the weekend ahead. The city was already alive with the hum of summer visitors, yet there was something timeless in the air as we navigated its winding streets. Our first destination was the magnificent York Minster, the heart of the city and one of the largest cathedrals in Northern Europe.
Stepping inside felt like entering another world. For the next hour and a half, we wandered through its vast interior, our eyes constantly drawn upward to the soaring vaulted ceilings. Every corner held something new to marvel at: intricately carved stonework that seemed impossibly delicate, medieval tombs and memorials rich with history, and of course, the Minster’s famed stained glass windows, glowing like jewels in the morning light.
Afterwards, we climbed up onto the city walls, beginning at Bootham Bar. In York, the “bars” are actually historic gatehouses built into the city walls, not drinking establishments. They date back to medieval times and were used to control entry into the city, collect tolls, and defend against invaders. Bootham Bar, Monk Bar, and the other bars we passed are some of the best-preserved examples of these ancient gateways. From Bootham Bar, we followed the walkway past Monk Bar and continued along the walls all the way to Layerthorpe Bridge. Walking along the walls gave us a wonderful vantage point over the city, a mix of medieval rooftops and lively summer streets.
Lunch at Arras
By then, we were ready for lunch, and we had booked a table at Arras. The restaurant itself is a delight, flooded with natural light from tall windows and elegant yet relaxed. The food was outstanding from the very start. We were presented with a whole loaf of warm, house-made bread, accompanied by rich butter that set the tone for what was to come. For starters, I had the cured salmon pastrami with pickled cucumber, mustard and Little Arras rye. Victor chose the fregola with sausage ragu and parmesan cream.
For mains, I opted for the market fish with Jersey Royal “hash,” asparagus, sea vegetables, and warm tartare sauce. Victor’s pork loin with caponata, Trapani couscous, almond and basil was equally full of flavour.
Dessert was never really in question. From the moment we arrived, I had my eye on the Arras cheese trolley. And what a trolley it was. Arras has been serving it since the restaurant first opened in 2007, and it has become an integral part of their dining philosophy.
They work with Andy Swinscoe, one of Britain’s finest cheesemongers, to curate a rotating selection of the best British and Irish cheeses, championing small independent producers. Each morning, the kitchen team decides what is in perfect condition to be served, ensuring that only the best reaches the table. The cheeses are accompanied by handmade condiments and crackers, with no supermarket slivers and no limp fruit, just cheese at its peak.
And the best part? There is no cap on how many cheeses you can try. Naturally, we went big. Between us, we sampled no less than seven different types of cheese, each one better than the last. By the end, we were in cheese heaven, full, happy, and thoroughly impressed.
York Ghosts, The Shambles, and Museum Gardens
After lunch, we wandered back into the city and noticed a line spilling out from a little shed in St Anthony’s Garden. I knew immediately what it was: The York Ghost Merchants. I had read about them beforehand. They create unique, hand-crafted ceramic ghost sculptures that have become something of a phenomenon in York.
Their main shop is in The Shambles, but the “Dispensary” in St Anthony’s Garden helps them cope with the crowds of eager ghost-hunters. We waited about half an hour, as they only let a few people in at a time, and it was absolutely worth it. I came away with a lovely little ghost for myself and a smaller one as a gift for a friend.
By the time we left, it was already 3:30 in the afternoon. From there, we headed to The Shambles itself. Once the street of York’s butchers, it is one of the city’s most iconic medieval lanes. The Shambles is even mentioned in the Domesday Book of William the Conqueror, and its name comes from the word “Shamel,” meaning the stalls or benches on which meat was displayed. The street was rebuilt around 1400, and its crooked timber-framed buildings, many of them overhanging the street, still give it a storybook charm today.
We then made our way to the Museum Gardens, where the beautiful ruins of St Mary’s Abbey rise dramatically amongst the greenery. The gardens were alive with visitors enjoying the summer sunshine, but it was easy to find a quiet corner to sit and take in the atmosphere.
More City Walls, and Drinks
Afterwards, we walked over to our hotel, the lovely Clementine’s Guest House, to rest for a while before heading back out for the evening.
Around 8pm, we returned to the city walls, this time starting at Walmgate Bar. The evening light was soft and golden, and the walk felt even more atmospheric than earlier in the day. We followed the walls until they ended at Fishergate Postern Tower, enjoying the quieter pace as the city began to settle down for the night.
From there, we stopped at Brew York for a drink and a bite to eat. Afterwards, we wandered back into The Shambles to experience it after dark. By now, it was just past 10pm, and because it was summer, the sky was only just beginning to darken. The street, so busy during the day, was almost empty, which made it feel like we had stepped back in time.
To finish the night, we decided on one last stop: Valhalla, a Viking-themed bar. It was such a fun way to end the evening, and I even tried some mead. When in York, right?
Even More City Walls and Breakfast at Flori Bakery
On Sunday, we continued our exploration of York’s city walls, starting at Barker Tower. We walked along the walls to Micklegate Bar and all the way to Victoria Bar, taking in the morning light and quiet streets.
After our walk, we ventured into the neighbourhood of Clementhorpe for breakfast. We stopped at Flori Bakery, a charming local spot. I had their seasonal strawberry and pistachio crème Danish, while Victor chose a classic croissant. Both pastries were fantastic, light, flaky, and full of flavour, exactly the kind of start every Sunday should have.
Clifford’s Tower and Fairfax House
After breakfast, we walked to the last section of the walls at Davy Tower, enjoying our final moments along the historic route. From there, we passed by Clifford’s Tower, standing proudly as a reminder of York’s rich and sometimes turbulent history.
We wandered through The Shambles again, taking in the medieval charm from a different angle. Our next stop was Fairfax House, a beautifully restored Georgian townhouse filled with period interiors and decorative art. It was fascinating to step inside and imagine life in 18th-century York.
Rainy Shelter and Sunday Roast
By the afternoon, the weather turned, and it started pouring. We found shelter in a local mall, enjoying some downtime until it was time for our Sunday lunch. We went to The Whippet Inn for a classic Sunday Roast, a perfect way to warm up and relax after our morning adventures.
Coffee and Evening at the Guy Fawkes Inn
After lunch, we stopped for some coffee to keep the day going and then finished our weekend at the Guy Fawkes Inn, soaking in the atmosphere and reflecting on our short but memorable York escape.
What stood out most in York were the little details, like the warmth of the pastries at Flori Bakery or the playful charm of York Ghost Merchants, and the indulgence of sampling seven cheeses from the Arras trolley. Moments like these turn a simple weekend into a collection of stories we’ll tell again and again.
Don’t miss the Arras cheese trolley — it’s worth every bite.
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