December in Virginia usually conjures images of grey skies and chilly winds, but Richmond had other plans. On a rare sunny winter day, I set out for a spontaneous day trip packed with strong coffee, literary lore, riverside views, and soul-satisfying food. The city welcomed us with golden light, crisp air, and just enough charm to make a single day feel like a full escape.
We started the day at Riverbend Roastery, a bright, inviting café near the James River. The smell of freshly roasted beans and the soft winter sun spilling through the windows made it easy to linger over a well-crafted latte. With caffeine in hand and jackets zipped up, we set off on foot to explore.
From the coffee shop, we wandered up Broad Street, where Richmond’s layers of history reveal themselves in worn brick, old signage, and the quiet bustle of city life.
Our walk led us to Libby Hill Park, where the view over the James River is one of the best in town. Even in winter, the wide-open vista with its bare trees, golden sunlight, and the steady ribbon of water was striking.
From the park, we made our way downhill to the Poe Museum in Shockoe Bottom. Tucked into a cluster of historic stone buildings, the museum is dedicated to Edgar Allan Poe’s formative years in Richmond and offers a moody, immersive experience that feels both intimate and slightly uncanny. Though small in size, it’s dense with atmosphere. Its dimly lit rooms are filled with antique furnishings, brooding portraits, and fragile pages of Poe’s handwriting under glass.
One room recreates his childhood bedroom; another displays a lock of his hair. The exhibits blend biography and myth, leaving just enough space for legend to creep in. Outside, the shaded courtyard has a resident black cat and weathered bricks that seem to whisper when the wind picks up. I really enjoyed this museum and would definitely recommend a visit!
After the museum, we circled back uphill and wandered around Church Hill, one of Richmond’s oldest and most picturesque neighbourhoods. The narrow brick sidewalks, historic row houses, and quiet charm were bathed in warm winter light. It was the kind of neighbourhood you want to walk slowly through, noticing porch details and imagining stories behind each window.
By 1:30pm, we were ready for lunch, so we drove across town to Mama J’s Kitchen, a Richmond institution known for its Southern comfort food. The atmosphere was lively but cosy, the kind of place that feels like it’s been feeding the neighbourhood for generations. Victor and I shared a catfish sandwich with crisps, as well as sides of macaroni and cheese and candied yams. Every bite hit exactly the right note. I’ll always remember asking our waitress hesitantly, “Could I please get the sweet potato pie?” and her answering confidently, “Of course you can, baby girl!”
After lunch, we walked off the meal with a slow loop through Monroe Ward, a quieter downtown neighbourhood that blends old Richmond elegance with hints of its evolving, modern character. The streets felt lived-in and dignified, lined with stately townhouses, fading brick facades, and the occasional boutique or café tucked into a corner building. There is a certain stillness in Monroe Ward that makes you slow down, even in the middle of the city.
We continued our walk through The Fan District, a neighbourhood as beautiful as it is distinct. With its elegant row houses, wrought-iron railings, and cosy porches, The Fan has a quiet, cinematic charm—especially under a warm, low sun. It’s a place that invites wandering and slows time just enough to take in the little things: a cat sleeping in a window, ivy crawling up old brick, wind rustling through the sycamores.
We then took a walk down Monument Avenue, once lined with towering Confederate statues. Now, the broad boulevard feels like a space in transition—one where the grandeur of the homes and the evolving public conversation meet. The sunlight filtered through bare trees, casting long shadows across brick façades and marble steps.
As golden hour faded, we drove over to Carytown and found parking just in time to catch the neighbourhood’s early evening energy. Lined with quirky boutiques, record stores, cafés, and a historic movie theatre, Carytown has a playful, slightly offbeat vibe that contrasts with The Fan’s quieter elegance.
We wandered in and out of shops, enjoying festive window displays and the warm glow of storefronts. For a snack, we stopped into Galaxy Diner, a retro favourite decked out in chrome and neon. We shared (insert snack here), soaking in the cosy atmosphere and the last bits of light outside.
From there, we made our way back toward Broad Street, where we stopped at Blanchard’s Coffee for a final caffeine boost. The café was quiet and inviting, the kind of place that lets you breathe after a long, full day. It felt like a bookend to the morning—one more great cup before the city transitioned fully into night.
Our last major stop was Väsen Brewing Company in Scott’s Addition. With its earthy-industrial vibe and creative brews, it was the perfect place to wind down. We had a drink, chatted with a few locals, and picked out a few beers to take home—souvenirs with a little extra flavour. The atmosphere was relaxed and welcoming, a reflection of the city itself.
But of course, no road trip is quite complete without a sugar-laced detour—so before heading out of town, we made a final stop at Krispy Kreme. The “Hot Now” sign was glowing, and there’s nothing quite like biting into a warm Original Glazed, fresh off the line. Sticky, soft, and sweet, aka absolutely perfect.
Richmond in December surprised me not just with its sunshine, but with how much it offered in a single day. From literary shadows to riverside views, historic charm to Southern soul food, retro diners to indie cafés, bold beers to glazed doughnuts, this day felt like a whole weekend compressed into one slow, satisfying rhythm. Richmond doesn’t demand your attention, but if you give it even a little, it gives you something lasting in return.
What do you think of Richmond? Are you planning on visiting anytime soon?
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