In January and February 2024, my partner and I set off on a five-week adventure through Southeast Asia. It is a journey that took us from the bustling streets of Ho Chi Minh City, through the peaceful landscapes of northern Vietnam, into the mountains and rivers of Laos, and finally to the ancient wonders of Cambodia. After working our way up Vietnam and spending time in Hanoi, Luang Prabang, and Vang Vieng, we flew from Laos to Siem Reap to begin the Cambodia leg of our trip. With limited time in the country, we focused on one main goal: exploring Angkor Wat, a place that had been sitting at the top of my travel bucket list for years.
We arrived in Siem Reap from Luang Prabang at around 7pm, landing into warm air and an unfamiliar energy. After a short tuk-tuk ride, we checked in at The Urban, a cosy hotel tucked away just enough from the action but still within easy reach of everything.
Once we had settled into our room, we decided to go for a wander and see what the town looked like after dark.
Our First Night
We headed straight for Pub Street, not knowing quite what to expect. What we found was… chaos, in the best way. Bright lights, booming music, backpackers spilling out of bars, and locals calling out from restaurants and shops. The street and its nearby lanes were completely alive with people. I had associated Siem Reap almost entirely with Angkor Wat, so stepping into this nightlife-heavy scene was a complete surprise.
It felt like a backpacker magnet, full of neon, street food, and energy. Some might find it overwhelming, but we loved the contrast. It was chaotic, loud, a little tacky in places, and fun to witness.
What we really wanted, though, was a good Cambodian dinner. This turned out to be harder than expected. A lot of the restaurants in central Siem Reap cater to international tastes, and it took us a while to find somewhere serving Khmer food. Eventually, we came across a place called Pot & Pan Siem Reap. We ordered:
- A prawn salad that was light and refreshing, which was not too dissimilar from a Thai mango salad
- Deep-fried catfish with green mango pickle, served with steamed rice
- Cambodian noodles in traditional Khmer spice soup, with lime and chilli on the side
The food was delicious and well-spiced. But the real surprise? Frogs. Actual frogs were hopping around the restaurant floor. It startled me at first. I did a double-take and wondered if it was just me. But no, they were definitely frogs, casually bouncing along between the tables. It was a little wild, but it made the meal unforgettable.
After dinner, we stopped by Gelato Lab for a scoop of mango sorbet, which was the perfect way to cool down. We walked back to our hotel and turned in early. The next day was our big Angkor adventure, and we wanted to be rested.
A Bumpy Start to Our Temple Day
We woke up before sunrise, eager to start our day exploring the Angkor complex. We had planned to rent bicycles near the entrance and bike between the temples at our own pace. At 6:45am, we grabbed a tuk-tuk to Angkor Wat Bicycle Rental, a shop I had read opened at 7am. But when we arrived, the shop was completely closed. There was no sign that it would be opening anytime soon. We stood there in the morning quiet, not really sure what to do.
Thankfully, our tuk-tuk driver stuck around. After a few minutes, some locals pointed us to another rental place a few minutes down the road. We got back in the tuk-tuk and rode there, relieved to see tourists already picking out bikes. We weren’t the first, so we didn’t get the best bikes, but we were just grateful to get anything at all. After thanking our driver, we finally set off on two wheels, riding toward one of the most incredible places we’ve ever been.
Exploring Angkor by Bike
Before we set off into the temple complex, it’s worth knowing a little about what makes Angkor Wat so extraordinary. Angkor Wat is actually the name of one specific temple, albeit the most famous one in the area. The temple sits within the Angkor Archaeological Park, a vast region that was once the heart of the Khmer Empire. At its height between the 9th and 15th centuries, this area was home to one of the most advanced and powerful civilisations in Southeast Asia, and even the world. It had advanced water systems, grand temples, and an estimated population of up to a million people.
The temples that remain were originally built as Hindu places of worship, dedicated to gods like Vishnu and Shiva, but over time, as the Khmer Empire evolved, many of them were adapted for Buddhist use. The Angkor Archaeological Park stretches across more than 400 square kilometres, and while some temples are grand and meticulously restored, others are half-swallowed by jungle, quiet, crumbling, and surreal.
Bayon Temple
We began our cycling adventure in Angkor Thom, the ancient capital of the Khmer Empire, entering through one of its grand stone gates. We began with Bayon, and it immediately set the tone for the magic of Angkor. Unlike anything I’d ever seen, Bayon is famous for its 200 massive stone faces, each one serene, smiling, and carved into the many towers that rise above the temple. Walking through the narrow corridors and stepping into the central terrace, I felt surrounded by these watchful expressions.
Some historians believe the faces represent Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion, while others say they resemble King Jayavarman VII himself, who commissioned the temple in the late 12th century. Either way, there’s an eerie calm to the place. It was one of the most atmospheric temples we visited, and I found myself constantly stopping just to take in the symmetry, the carvings, and those ever-present smiles.
Baphuon Temple
From Bayon, we walked over to Baphuon, which feels a bit more tucked away, but is massive. It was originally built in the 11th century as a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, well before Bayon and Angkor Wat were constructed. The temple itself is built in a pyramid style, and from the ground, it almost looks like a steep stone mountain rising above the trees.
We climbed the steep stairs to the top, where the view over the surrounding jungle and temples was worth every step. It was quieter than Bayon, which made it feel especially atmospheric, like we were walking through a piece of ancient memory slowly being brought back to life.
Terrace of the Leper King
We then cycled to the Terrace of the Leper King, which is easy to miss if you’re not paying attention. At the top of the terrace sits a weathered statue of a seated figure, believed by some to be Yama, the god of death, and by others to represent a Cambodian king who supposedly had leprosy. Whether myth or history, the statue gives the place a haunting kind of presence.
The real surprise was the narrow hidden passage running along the terrace’s base, a tight corridor carved with rows of beautifully preserved figures. We walked slowly through it, surrounded on both sides by gods, demons, and celestial dancers. The detail was incredible, and the closeness of the walls made the experience feel both intimate and slightly otherworldly, like stumbling into a secret chamber.
Terrace of the Elephants
From there, we made our way to the Terrace of the Elephants, which stretches out dramatically in front of the former royal palace grounds. Lined with carvings of elephants and garudas, this long platform was once used for royal ceremonies and viewing public events. It’s easy to imagine kings standing here, looking out over processions or performances. The terrace doesn’t have a roof or inner structure, but its scale and openness were impressive in a different way from the temples.
Phimeanakas Temple
Our next stop was Phimeanakas, a smaller but fascinating temple located within the Royal Palace grounds of Angkor Thom. Unlike the grand temples we’d seen earlier, Phimeanakas is more intimate. It’s a three-tiered pyramid built from laterite and sandstone, standing quietly amid the sprawling ruins.
Ta Prohm
By midday, we arrived at Ta Prohm, perhaps one of the most iconic temples in all of Angkor. Unlike many of the other temples that have been carefully restored, Ta Prohm has been deliberately left partially in ruins, swallowed by the jungle. Towering trees have wrapped their roots around stone walls, prying apart what humans built centuries ago. It’s haunting, beautiful, and cinematic, quite literally, since it was made famous by Tomb Raider.
The heat and light at that hour gave the whole place a slightly surreal glow. We wandered slowly through crumbling hallways, ducking under fallen stones and pausing in quiet courtyards overtaken by nature. Ta Prohm was definitely one of our favourite temples during our visit to Angkor. It felt wild and ancient, with just enough mystery to spark the imagination, like stepping into a forgotten world where history and jungle blur together.
By this point, the heat was becoming intense, and we decided it was time to head back. What we didn’t fully realise was just how far we had biked. The ride back to the entrance was long and exhausting. The sun was strong, and we were hot, sweaty, and completely ready to be horizontal.
Back at the Hotel: Pool, Tea, and Khmer Amok
As soon as we returned to the hotel, we headed straight for the pool. Floating in the cool water after hours in the heat was bliss. Around 4:30pm, we went to the hotel restaurant for complimentary afternoon tea. We sat on the open-air terrace enjoying sweet snacks and delicious local tea. It was quiet and peaceful, a perfect contrast to the heat and dust of the temples.
Later that evening, we went out for a light dinner at My Little Café, a small local spot. We weren’t terribly hungry, so we shared two dishes:
- A vermicelli bean salad with seafood, which was refreshing and tangy
- Their special Khmer Amok, a creamy, coconut-based fish curry with lemongrass, mushroom, cabbage, onion, ngo leaves, and egg, served with steamed rice
The flavours were rich and delicate. It was a perfect final meal after a long and unforgettable day.
Final Thoughts
Our first full day in Siem Reap gave us so much. The sensory overload of Pub Street, the quiet awe of temple ruins, unexpected detours, and delicious meals. Biking through Angkor challenged us physically but gave us the freedom to explore at our own pace. Despite the frogs, the heat, and a shaky start, it was one of those travel days that we’ll talk about for years.
Stay tuned for Part II, where we dive deeper into the Angkor complex and uncover even more hidden gems.
No Comments