Travel

Chasing Waterfalls and Sipping Coffee in Boquete

After a few days soaking in the vibrant energy and tropical heat of Panama City, we were craving a change of pace, somewhere cooler, greener, quieter. Boquete, a small mountain town nestled in the highlands of Panama’s Chiriquí province, turned out to be the perfect escape.

Known for its cloud forests, coffee plantations, and year-round spring weather, Boquete offers a completely different side of Panama. It’s a place where hummingbirds dart through the trees, rivers weave through deep valleys, and mist clings to the hills in the early mornings. Whether you’re into hiking, birdwatching, or just enjoying a really good cup of coffee, Boquete has a way of drawing you in and slowing you down.

We spent two full days exploring its trails, farms, and flavours — and left wishing we had one more.

Arriving in the Highlands

We arrived in Boquete after a short flight from Panama City to David, followed by a transfer into the mountains. The shift in scenery was immediate and magical. Gone was the heat and chaos of the city, replaced by cool air, winding roads, and lush green peaks. That evening, wrapped in a light sweater for the first time in days, we headed out to eat and felt like we’d landed in a different world.

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We kicked off our highland stay with a cosy dinner at La Cueva del Pitufo, a local Peruvian seafood spot. We shared the Trío Marino, a seafood trio featuring marinera-style rice, crispy fried fish with huancaína sauce (a spicy, creamy Peruvian sauce made with aji amarillo and cheese), and sea bass ceviche. Each component brought something different: rich, crispy, tangy, and intensely flavourful.

We also ordered a plate of clams and jumbo shrimp, served in a garlicky, buttery broth that we happily soaked up with crispy patacones (twice-fried green plantains). Unassuming, affordable, and packed with flavour, it was the perfect welcome to Boquete.

Day One in Boquete: Forest Trails and Hanging Bridges

After a quiet breakfast at our accommodation, we set off on the Pipeline Trail, a relatively flat three-hour walk through cool forest. While we didn’t manage to spot the famous quetzal, a local on the trail pointed out a Black Guan — a large black bird that felt like a rare prize.

The trail was calm and peaceful, with birdsong echoing and soft light filtering through the trees. The waterfall at the end was a more gentle stream than a dramatic plunge, but the journey there made it well worth it.

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In the afternoon, we joined the Hanging Bridges Tour at Boquete Tree Trek Adventure Park. The experience of walking suspended above valleys and treetops, with cloud forest mist curling around us, was quietly magical. The bridges gave us a unique vantage point on the forest and a deeper appreciation for just how alive and layered this landscape really is.

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After the tour, we strolled around Boquete town, soaking in its relaxed, friendly vibe. We capped off the afternoon with a cold, well-earned beer at a local bar, one of those spontaneous stops that somehow ends up being a trip highlight.

Dinner that night was at The Fish House, and it absolutely delivered. I had red snapper with papaya and jalapeño sauce, served with crispy patacones and a fresh tomato salad. Victor ordered grilled grouper with a lemon caper sauce, which was equally delicious. Every bite felt fresh, flavourful, and satisfying. We left full, happy, and already falling in love with Boquete.

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Day Two in Boquete: Muddy Waterfalls and Moon-Grown Coffee

The next morning, we woke up to a clear blue sky, the kind of crisp highland morning that makes you want to be outside. We took a taxi to the trailhead of the Lost Waterfalls hike and began our climb.

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This trail is a bit of a workout, especially the steep, muddy climb to Waterfall Three, where you’ll need to use ropes to get over the rocks. Even though it hadn’t rained in a while, the trail was still very muddy. Boquete’s humidity and rich soil make it so. We decided to hike all the way to the top first, then loop back down to visit Waterfalls Two and One. It was challenging but so much fun, and we were glad we made the effort.

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After the hike, we returned to our accommodation to rest and clean up. We grabbed lunch at Sugar & Spice, a local café and bakery. The sandwiches were simple but satisfying, exactly what we needed before our next adventure.

That afternoon, we visited Finca Dos Jefes, a small, family-run farm known for its organic, moon-phase-guided coffee production. Located on the slopes of Volcán Barú at 1,400 meters above sea level, the farm grows seven varieties of Arabica, including the rare and prized Geisha.

Our tour covered everything from environmental impacts to coffee processing methods. We walked through the fields, saw the roasting equipment, and ended with a tasting that included medium and dark roast blends, plus a light roast Geisha. The views, the knowledge, and the coffee were all unforgettable.

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After the coffee tour, we headed to Boquete Brewing for a celebratory drink. The vibe was relaxed and fun, with locals and travellers mingling over craft beers. For dinner, we walked to El Sabrosón #1, a humble and very authentic Panamanian canteen. It was casual, tasty, and full of locals — always a good sign.

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The next morning, we made our way from Boquete to Bocas del Toro, travelling by shuttle and water taxi. Leaving the mountains behind, we felt incredibly grateful for our time in Boquete. It’s a place of misty trails, friendly faces, and some of the best coffee we’ve ever tasted.


What do you think of this nature paradise in Panama?

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