This post is part of my London Neighbourhood Guides series. Fancy visiting another area of London? Check out my other guides here, which all include information regarding the sights, history, charm, food and drinks of the area you’re curious about.
With Shoreditch and Hoxton to the south and Dalston and Hackney Central to the north, Haggerston occupies a sweet spot. It is close to some of East London’s busiest and best-known neighbourhoods, but has a quieter, more lived-in character of its own.
Neighbouring De Beauvoir Town feels quieter still, with leafy residential streets, handsome houses, neighbourhood pubs and a lovely stretch of Regent’s Canal. Together, the two areas offer a particularly appealing mixture of waterside walks, railway-arch restaurants, independent cafés and some excellent places to eat and drink.
The map below shows the boundaries of the Borough of Hackney, and the areas highlighted in green are those that I cover in this post, including Haggerston and De Beauvoir Town.
Regent’s Canal
One of the defining features of Haggerston and De Beauvoir is Regent’s Canal. The canal stretches across London from Little Venice in Paddington towards the Docklands, but this particular section makes for an especially lovely walk.
The towpath passes colourful houseboats, waterside cafés and pockets of greenery, with plenty of places where you can stop for coffee, brunch or lunch. Walk east, and you will eventually reach Broadway Market and London Fields, which I cover in my separate London Fields guide.
One of my favourite waterside cafés was The Barge House. It served modern British food, but was particularly famous for its Breakfast en Bread: hollowed-out loaves filled with combinations of eggs, cheese, vegetables and other breakfast ingredients.
Unfortunately, the permanent canal-side location has since closed, although the team has continued to offer its stuffed loaves for delivery. I still wanted to include it here because it was such a memorable part of this stretch of the canal, and I have many fond memories of visiting.
Another institution along the canal is Towpath Cafe. As the name suggests, the café sits directly beside the towpath, with tables facing the water. It is one of those places that feels completely tied to its setting: relaxed, seasonal and particularly wonderful when the sun is shining.
The menu changes regularly, but the food tends to be simple and ingredient-led. It is the sort of place where toast, eggs, vegetables or a bowl of something comforting can become much more memorable than expected. Towpath is incredibly popular, but the setting makes it worth braving the crowds.
If you are craving Venezuelan food, or perhaps want to try it for the first time, look no further than Arepa & Co. It is one of my favourite places in London to get arepas. Arepas are round cornmeal breads that are crisp on the outside but soft and fluffy inside, before being sliced open and filled. Arepa & Co offers several different combinations, including some excellent vegetarian options. The canal-side setting makes this branch particularly lovely.
Walking along the canal, you will eventually reach Kingsland Basin, a body of water that branches away from the main canal into De Beauvoir Town. The basin is now surrounded by a mixture of houseboats and newer housing developments, but it still feels peaceful and tucked away. At the far end is Toconoco, a Japanese café that feels almost hidden from the surrounding streets. It is a calm, minimalist space serving Japanese home-style food, tea and sweet treats. Its quiet setting beside the water makes it feel like one of the area’s best-kept secrets.
De Beauvoir Town
Away from the canal, De Beauvoir Town has a very different character from the busier stretches of Shoreditch, Dalston and Kingsland Road. The neighbourhood is known for its leafy streets, attractive houses and elegant central square. Walking around this part of Hackney feels surprisingly peaceful, particularly given how close it is to some of East London’s busiest nightlife areas.
De Beauvoir Square is at the heart of the neighbourhood. Surrounded by handsome homes, the garden has lawns, mature trees and flowerbeds, creating a green focal point for the surrounding residential streets. It is worth wandering here without too strict an itinerary. Part of De Beauvoir’s appeal is simply admiring the architecture, walking along the quiet streets and stumbling across neighbourhood cafés and pubs. One such café is Batch Baby, a cosy neighbourhood coffee shop. It is the sort of place that feels designed for regulars, with good coffee, pastries and a warm, unpretentious atmosphere.
For something more substantial, there is Kakki Katsu, which specialises in Japanese katsu dishes. Katsu is the ultimate comfort food: crisp breaded cutlets served with rice and a rich curry sauce. The menu includes a variety of options, making it a good choice for a casual lunch or dinner.
The Midyeci Bar & Restaurant offers something rather different. Its menu draws on Turkish seafood and street-food traditions, with mussels playing a particularly important role. It is an interesting option if you want to explore beyond the kebabs and grills more commonly associated with Turkish restaurants in London.
Dan’s is another neighbourhood favourite. It is a relaxed wine bar with a laid-back, slightly understated atmosphere: the kind of place where you can settle in for a glass of wine and accidentally stay for several more.
De Beauvoir also has some excellent pubs. The Duke of York is a handsome neighbourhood pub on Downham Road. It has the kind of welcoming atmosphere that works equally well for a quick drink, a relaxed meal or a long afternoon with friends.
The Scolt Head is another local institution. Tucked away on a residential street, it has a large garden and a relaxed community feel. It is particularly popular when the weather is good, but remains a cosy option during the colder months too.
Together, these places capture what makes De Beauvoir so appealing. It is not packed with major sights, but it is full of attractive streets and neighbourhood spots that feel genuinely connected to the people who live around them.
Around Haggerston Station
Crossing Kingsland Road brings you into the more recognisably urban side of Haggerston. Haggerston Station opened as part of the London Overground extension in 2010, and the elevated railway line has become a defining feature of the neighbourhood. Beneath the tracks and inside the surrounding arches, you will find restaurants, bars, breweries and creative businesses.
Acton Mews is one of the most interesting pockets to explore. Tucked beneath and around the railway arches, it feels industrial but lively, particularly during the evenings and weekends. One of its best-known residents is Berber & Q. The restaurant specialises in food inspired by the Middle East and North Africa, with plenty of smoke, spice and dishes designed for sharing. The dark railway-arch setting adds to the atmosphere.
Signature Brew Taproom is another good stop. The taproom serves Signature Brew’s beers directly beneath the railway arches and regularly hosts music and other events. The combination of craft beer, live entertainment and the industrial setting feels very Haggerston.
Nearby is Planque, a beautifully designed restaurant and wine bar hidden beneath the railway arches. The dining room feels refined but understated, with food that is elegant without becoming overly complicated.
Our meal began with cured bream and habanero vinegar, followed by razor clams with carosello cucumber and sea aster. A plate of butter lettuce with sunflower seeds and Beenleigh Blue showed how much flavour could be drawn from seemingly simple ingredients, while the courgette tart with goat’s curd and anchovy was one of those dishes that sounded completely made for me.
For the main course, we shared steamed turbot with leeks and flowering brassicas. We finished the savoury part of the meal with 24-month-aged Comté, before having Gariguette strawberries with a brown butter financier for dessert. As a pescatarian, it was exactly my kind of menu: seasonal vegetables, excellent seafood, and thoughtful combinations that kept the ingredients at the centre of each dish.
A Bar with Shapes for a Name is one of the area’s more unusual cocktail bars. The concept is intentionally minimalist, right down to its geometric name and design, but the drinks are thoughtful and inventive. It is a good option when you want something more experimental than a traditional pub or cocktail bar.
MAP Maison offers another place for cocktails, with a more glamorous and colourful atmosphere. It also runs cocktail experiences and tastings, making it a fun option for a celebration or group night out.
SHED Haggerston contributes to the area’s creative character. Haggerston’s railway arches and former industrial spaces have long attracted independent businesses, studios and venues, and SHED fits naturally into that mix.
This cluster around the station and railway arches is one of the things that makes Haggerston distinct from neighbouring De Beauvoir. De Beauvoir is leafy and residential; Haggerston feels more industrial, creative and energetic.
Kingsland Road
Kingsland Road runs through the eastern edge of De Beauvoir and the centre of Haggerston, connecting Shoreditch and Hoxton with Dalston further north. It is busy, slightly chaotic and packed with restaurants, shops and cultural landmarks. One of its most important attractions is the Museum of the Home. Housed in a row of beautiful former almshouses, the museum explores how people have lived at home across different periods of British history. Its recreated rooms show changing tastes, technologies and domestic routines, from formal parlours to more familiar modern living spaces.
The museum was formerly known as the Geffrye Museum, and the historic buildings remain a major part of its appeal. Behind them are a series of period gardens that explore how urban outdoor spaces have changed over time. It is an interesting place to visit even if you would not normally think of yourself as someone who enjoys museums, as the focus on everyday life makes the displays particularly relatable.
Kingsland Road is also one of East London’s most interesting food streets. Further south, it is famous for its concentration of Vietnamese restaurants, often known as Little Vietnam. I cover the area in more detail in my Shoreditch and Hoxton guide, including favourites such as Sông Quê and BúnBúnBún.
The northern edge of the Vietnamese restaurant district brushes against Haggerston, which is a reminder that London’s neighbourhood boundaries are rarely completely clear. Streets, communities and restaurant districts tend to spill naturally from one area into the next.
Haggerston Park and Hackney City Farm
To the south of Haggerston Station is Haggerston Park, one of the neighbourhood’s main green spaces. The park was created on land that had previously been occupied by housing and industrial buildings, which were damaged during the Second World War. Today, it has open lawns, sports facilities, gardens and paths connecting the surrounding streets.
It is less famous than nearby London Fields, but that is part of its appeal. It tends to feel calmer and more local, offering a welcome patch of greenery between Kingsland Road and Hackney Road. Beside the park is Hackney City Farm. The farm has been part of the local community for decades and is home to animals, growing spaces, workshops and community activities.
It is a particularly fun place to visit with children, although you certainly do not need to be a child to appreciate seeing pigs, goats and chickens in the middle of East London.
The farm also offers a glimpse into the area’s history. Before this part of London became densely built up, market gardens and agricultural land could still be found around Hackney. The city farm keeps a small piece of that relationship with food and nature alive.
Hackney Road
Hackney Road runs along the southern side of Haggerston Park and Hackney City Farm. At first glance, it can feel like a busy connecting road, but it is packed with excellent restaurants, pubs and independent shops.
One of my favourite stops is A Portuguese Love Affair. As the name suggests, the shop celebrates Portuguese food and culture, selling a mixture of groceries, gifts, ceramics, drinks and sweet treats. As someone with Portuguese heritage, I am always excited to find places in London that showcase Portuguese products beyond the usual pastel de nata. It is a colourful and joyful shop, and a lovely place to pick up gifts or pantry items.
Sager + Wilde is one of Hackney Road’s best-known wine bars. The space is intimate and atmospheric, with an excellent selection of wines by the glass and bottle. It is a great place to try something unfamiliar without feeling intimidated.
Dom’s Subs was once one of Hackney Road’s most indulgent lunch stops, serving huge, generously filled sandwiches inspired by Italian-American delis. The Hackney Road shop has since closed, but it remains part of the area’s recent food history. If you’re looking for these delicious subs, head to their London Fields location.
For pubs, The Virgin Queen is a relaxed local option with plenty of character. At the eastern end of this stretch is the Marksman, a handsome pub known for combining the atmosphere of a traditional East London boozer with seriously good food. It is a great choice when you want a proper pub experience but also care about what is coming out of the kitchen.
Morito was another much-loved restaurant on Hackney Road, serving Spanish and North African-inspired small plates. The Hackney Road branch has now closed, but I still wanted to mention it as it was such a memorable part of the area’s food scene.
Hackney Road eventually leads towards Columbia Road and Bethnal Green. Columbia Road Flower Market is close enough to combine with a visit to Haggerston, particularly on a Sunday, but I will cover it properly in a separate Bethnal Green guide.
Final Thoughts on Haggerston and De Beauvoir
Haggerston and De Beauvoir sit between some of East London’s most famous neighbourhoods, but neither feels like merely a place to pass through.
Haggerston has the railway arches, busy roads, creative venues and excellent restaurants. De Beauvoir offers leafy streets, peaceful squares, local pubs and a quieter rhythm. Regent’s Canal connects the two, providing one of the loveliest walks in this part of London. Together, they offer an appealing balance of old and new, busy and peaceful, industrial and residential. You can start with coffee beside the canal, wander through De Beauvoir’s streets, stop for lunch beneath a railway arch and finish the day with wine, cocktails or dinner on Hackney Road.
Look out for more blog posts on the other neighbourhoods of Hackney!
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