Tucked along Panama’s Caribbean coast, Bocas del Toro is a dreamy archipelago made up of lush islands, turquoise water, and a laid-back, tropical rhythm that instantly slows your pace. Accessible only by boat or small plane, it feels like a world apart, where jungle meets sea, and adventure unfolds at its gentle speed.
This region is known for its vibrant marine life, colourful stilt houses, and eco-conscious ethos. Whether snorkelling in coral reefs, kayaking through mangrove-lined bays, or lounging on white sand beaches alongside starfish, Bocas offers an immersive escape into nature. The islands are alive with biodiversity, from monkeys swinging through the canopy to sloths clinging to tree trunks and dolphins slicing through calm waters.
Arrival in Bocas del Toro: Fish Shacks and Caribbean Magic
After leaving the cool mountain air of Boquete, we arrived in the sweltering heat of Bocas Town. The midday sun was intense, and we were eager to find a shady spot to sit and rest. We ended up at La Fonda El Fruta de Pan, a no-frills fish shack with the menu scrawled on a whiteboard and some of the best seafood we had on the trip. Everything was fresh, flavorful, and deeply satisfying, exactly what we needed.
After lunch, we walked to the harbour to meet our host. From there, we boarded a small boat for a scenic ride across calm, turquoise waters, passing through mangroves and tiny islands. Our destination was Dolphin Blue Paradise, an eco-friendly hideaway tucked into the quiet beauty of Dolphin Bay.
When we arrived, our hosts greeted us warmly. They were a couple staying on-site and managing the place for the owners. To our surprise, we learned we were the only guests during our stay, which made the experience even more special.
Our cabana was lovely — airy, peaceful, and thoughtfully equipped with everything we could need. The hotel is completely off the grid, running on solar energy with a rainwater collection and purification system. Their commitment to sustainability shows in every detail, from composting food scraps to using reusable containers and natural pest control.
After unpacking, we wandered around the lush property, taking in the sounds of the forest and the stillness of the bay. That evening, we had dinner at the over-the-water restaurant. Our boat captain also turned out to be the chef, and a great one at that. He prepared a beautiful European-Caribbean fusion meal using ingredients from the garden and nearby producers. Sitting by the water, enjoying fresh, homemade food as the sun dipped behind the trees, we couldn’t imagine a better way to end the day.
A Day in Dolphin Bay and Beyond
We woke up to the sound of soft waves and birdsong filtering through the trees. The morning was calm and serene, and we took our time strolling around the property, spotting clusters of pineapple bushes and towering coconut palms. There’s something so grounding about seeing food growing right where you’re staying. It adds a sense of connection to the land that’s rare in most travel experiences.
We had breakfast at the overwater restaurant, watching the sunlight flicker across the bay. The meal was simple and perfect: a fluffy omelette, creamy yoghurt with cacao nibs from a cacao farm right there on the island, and a platter of fresh fruit. All were sourced locally, and you could taste the difference.
After breakfast, we took out the on-site kayaks and paddled into the calm waters of Dolphin Bay. The water was glassy and peaceful, the perfect spot for a slow morning of exploring. No motors, no noise, just us, the occasional bird overhead, and the rhythmic sound of our paddles cutting through the water.
Later in the morning, we returned to meet our hosts for a day trip to Zapatilla Island, also known as Survivor Island (yes, that Survivor). As we approached by boat, it looked like something off a screensaver: white sand beaches, turquoise water, and a lush green interior. We jumped straight off the boat and walked up to the beach, completely enchanted.
We spent a few hours swimming, sunbathing, and snorkelling. The coral reef just offshore was full of life. We spotted bright parrotfish, angelfish, and a school of silver jacks weaving through the sea fans. The water was warm and clear, perfect for losing track of time.
Aside from relaxing on the beach and snorkeling, we also went for a short walk through the jungle at the center of the island. The trail led us through thick brush and towering palm trees, revealing another beautiful side of Zapatilla beyond the shoreline.
On the way back to our accommodation, we stopped at Cayo Coral for lunch and more snorkelling. The little overwater restaurant served fresh, simple fare, and the reef nearby offered another colourful underwater world to explore. By mid-afternoon, we returned to the hotel, sun-kissed and happy.
After a short rest, we went for a pre-dinner walk through the forested part of the property. As the light softened and the jungle cooled, we were lucky enough to spot a group of playful black monkeys swinging through the trees, a spontaneous wildlife moment that made the walk feel magical.
That evening, we headed back to the restaurant. We ordered cocktails to toast the day, and once again, our chef, who, it turns out, is also the resident bartender, delivered the goods. With the water gently lapping below and the moon beginning to rise, we enjoyed another delicious private dinner, just the two of us.
Starfish in the Rain: A Wet but Wonderful Adventure
Our last full day in Bocas began, once again, with a delicious breakfast at the hotel’s overwater restaurant. We had grown to love the peaceful, slow rhythm of mornings here, always starting with something nourishing, always surrounded by nature.
After breakfast, we decided to go for a hike around the property. The trail wove through lush vegetation and past cacao trees bursting with pods. There were vibrant tropical plants everywhere, from fiery red heliconias to delicate ferns. But the best moment by far? Spotting a sloth quietly hanging out in the trees. It felt like a gift from the forest.
Later in the morning, we returned to the hotel to meet up with our host for another boat day trip. The weather wasn’t looking as promising as the day before — grey skies and intermittent showers — and our host gently asked if we still wanted to go. We said yes. No regrets.
The ride to Playa Estrella (Starfish Beach) was… memorable. Torrential rain, choppy water, and us wrapped in our rain jackets, grinning through the soak. It was wild. But by the time we arrived, the rain had mostly stopped, and the beach still looked beautiful, even under a thick, cloudy sky.
And true to its name, there were starfish everywhere. We’d never seen so many in one place. Big, bright orange and golden starfish scattered across the shallow seafloor like a dream. The water was warm and calm, perfect for floating around and soaking it all in.
We had lunch on the beach, sitting under a simple hut, still a little damp but completely content. We shared a whole grilled fish, a plate of grilled seafood, and an ice-cold mango smoothie that tasted like sunshine.
In the late afternoon, we returned to the hotel and, feeling re-energised, went for another round of kayaking around Dolphin Bay. There was something addictive about the stillness of the bay, a peaceful counterpoint to the noisy fun of our boat trips.
As the day wound down, we headed to the bar for a pre-dinner cocktail and a game of dominoes. The cosy setup, with warm light reflecting off the water and the quiet hum of the evening settling in, made it one of those small but perfect moments.
We finished the day with yet another excellent dinner, served by our all-star chef-host-bartender, and fell asleep that night feeling full of food, of joy, of the kind of memories you know you’ll carry with you for a long time.
One Last Walk Through Paradise
On our final morning at Dolphin Blue Paradise, we enjoyed a peaceful breakfast as the early sunlight danced across the water. After eating, we wandered the grounds one last time, soaking in the vibrant greens of the tropical forest, the quiet rustle of palm leaves, and the now-familiar calls of birds we had come to love.
It felt like a proper goodbye. We passed by the pineapple bushes, cacao trees, and paused for a moment to watch the monkeys play in the trees. This quiet moment among the wildlife and natural beauty was the perfect end to our time in Bocas del Toro.
Before leaving, we sat down for one last meal at the hotel’s over-the-water restaurant. The fish tacos were absolutely delicious — fresh, flavourful, and the perfect note to end on.
Our hosts took us back across the bay to Bocas Town by boat. From there, we made our way to the airport for the flight back to Panama City, already missing the calm of the island and carrying with us memories of a trip filled with beauty, discovery, and a deep connection to nature.
Have you ever stayed off the grid in paradise?
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