I’ve been to Baltimore quite a few times. It is just an hour from DC and an hour and a half from home. Most of my trips were to the Inner Harbour, attending summer festivals or visiting the aquarium. But I realised I had never really explored the city itself. To many outsiders, Baltimore’s reputation might make that seem risky. The city has a rich yet complex history and today remains largely segregated, reflecting that past. Shows like The Wire have exposed the realities of life in Baltimore, showing the sharp contrast between struggling neighbourhoods and wealthier areas.
That said, I genuinely enjoyed my time in Baltimore. I was fascinated by the huge gap between the impoverished streets of central Baltimore and the redeveloped, thriving Inner Harbour. My boyfriend and I spent two full days exploring, and each day offered a completely different perspective.
Day 1: Exploring Central Baltimore
Our first day took us into the heart of the city. A friend recommended Mount Vernon, one of Baltimore’s oldest neighbourhoods. Once home to the city’s wealthiest families, it now feels quieter but retains a certain charm. Getting around was easy thanks to Baltimore’s free circulating bus, which connects most parts of the city. The neighbourhood has a stately, historical feel with its tree-lined streets, elegant row houses, and old monuments, yet it also carries a slightly empty, almost forgotten air in places.
A highlight was the Basilica of the National Shrine of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. It was the first Roman Catholic cathedral built in the United States, and its grandeur is truly impressive. The intricate ceilings, stained glass, and marble floors make it feel both monumental and serene, a reminder of the city’s rich cultural history.
While wandering the streets, we discovered Edgar Allan Poe’s tombstone. Poe was born in Baltimore and, despite spending much of his life elsewhere, he died here. Baltimore takes great pride in Poe’s legacy, with multiple landmarks and museums celebrating his life and works. Interestingly, Richmond also claims a large part of Poe’s history since he spent part of his youth there. If you want to see more of Poe’s life in Richmond, check out my day trip guide to Richmond. Visiting Baltimore and seeing Poe’s resting place offered a fascinating contrast between the city that shaped his early life and the city where he returned at the end of his days.
For dinner, we went to Lexington Market, a bustling market that serves locals rather than tourists. We grabbed sushi at a bargain and enjoyed some people-watching. The neighbourhood had a strong energy. While a few groups of youths seemed a little rowdy, nothing got out of hand. It felt authentic, a true glimpse of everyday life in central Baltimore rather than the polished veneer of the Inner Harbour.
The day ended with a concert, which was the highlight of our trip. A brief scare at the door over ID requirements had our hearts racing, but everything worked out. We saw TTNG (This Town Needs Guns), Foxing, and The World Is A Beautiful Place & I Am No Longer Afraid To Die, which was a perfect end to an intense and eye-opening day.
Day 2: The Inner Harbour and Beyond
Day two offered a stark contrast as we visited Baltimore’s redeveloped and tourist-friendly areas. We began at the American Visionary Museum, an extraordinary space filled with vibrant sculptures and imaginative designs. The museum focuses on outsider art, created by self-taught artists, many of whom were only discovered after their death.
The grounds alone are a feast for the eyes, with colourful glasswork, quirky installations, and playful structures that seem to pop up in unexpected places.
Next, we climbed a steep hill to Federal Hill Park, which offered sweeping views of the Inner Harbour. The wind was strong, but we managed a cosy picnic on a sheltered bench. Watching the water sparkle under the sunlight while sailboats drifted by was a beautiful and calming counterpoint to the bustling streets we explored the day before.
I had a Groupon for Top of the World, an observation deck near the harbour. From the 27th floor, we enjoyed incredible panoramic views of the Inner Harbour and the city beyond. It is not literally the top of the world, but seeing the city laid out like that gave me a new appreciation for Baltimore’s layout and its combination of historic and modern elements.
The Inner Harbour itself is lively and fun, with restaurants, bars, and attractions. The National Aquarium is worth visiting, with a large variety of marine life and interactive exhibits. The local seafood, especially Maryland crabs, is unbeatable. For a classic experience, many locals recommend Bo Brooks, a family-run spot right on the water. The mix of tourists and locals gives the area a fun, relaxed atmosphere.
Our final stop was the Baltimore Museum of Art, which houses the largest collection of Henri Matisse’s works in the world. Walking into the museum, I was immediately struck by how spacious and well-organised the galleries were. The museum is not just about the sheer number of artworks; it is thoughtfully curated, making it easy to follow the stories behind each piece.
Much of the museum’s most famous collection comes from the Cone sisters, Dr. Claribel and Miss Etta Cone. These two Baltimore sisters were passionate art collectors in the early 20th century. They travelled extensively, acquiring works by some of the most important artists of their time, including Matisse, Picasso, Cézanne, Degas, Giambattista Pittoni, Gauguin, van Gogh, and Renoir. Their eye for art and dedication to collecting helped shape one of the most remarkable private collections in the United States, which was eventually donated to the museum for the public to enjoy.
Walking through the galleries, I found myself drawn to the Matisse collection. The vibrancy of his colours, the energy in each brushstroke, and the sheer scale of some of the works were breathtaking. I also loved seeing the variety of other pieces in the Cone Collection, from Impressionist landscapes to striking modernist portraits. The museum does a wonderful job of presenting the art in a way that feels both accessible and inspiring, with each room flowing naturally into the next.
Baltimore is a city of contrasts. Its historical neighbourhoods sit alongside redeveloped harbours, and wealth exists alongside poverty. Exploring both sides of the city gave me a deeper appreciation for its character and history. From Edgar Allan Poe’s final resting place to the shimmering glass sculptures at the American Visionary Art Museum, Baltimore is full of surprises. It is a city worth visiting beyond the usual tourist spots.
For more fun in Maryland, check out my post on Annapolis.
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