After two days exploring Khon Kaen, we continued our journey north through Isan. Before leaving the city, we stopped for one final breakfast at Kinrin, a bagel shop. By this point, I had been in Asia for two and a half weeks, so I was craving something a little different for breakfast. And honestly, the bagels were better than expected!
After breakfast, we returned briefly to the hotel to check out and then made our way to Bus Terminal No. 3 to catch a van north to Udon Thani. The journey took around two hours, passing rice fields, roadside temples, and small villages typical of northeastern Thailand. Compared with the larger cities of central Thailand, this part of the country feels slower and more rural, with agriculture still shaping much of the landscape.
By early afternoon, we arrived at Udon Thani Bus Terminal and walked a short distance to our hotel, Centara Udon, which would serve as our base for the next couple of days.
At first glance, Udon Thani can seem like a fairly typical provincial capital. But like many places in northeastern Thailand, its charm reveals itself gradually. The streets are lively, the people are welcoming, and the city has several large public parks that become social hubs in the cooler evening hours. It also serves as a convenient base for exploring the surrounding region, with important archaeological and cultural sites located within easy reach.
Lunch in Udon Thani
After dropping off our bags, we headed straight out for lunch at KAO.PIAK.SEN, another Bib Gourmand restaurant. The dish that gives the restaurant its name, khao piak sen, is one of the region’s most beloved noodle soups and reflects the strong Vietnamese influence found throughout this part of Thailand. Large Vietnamese communities settled in northeastern Thailand during the twentieth century, particularly in cities like Udon Thani and Nong Khai, and their culinary traditions have become an integral part of the local food scene.
The thick, soft rice noodles are served in a comforting broth topped with steamed pork, herbs, fried garlic, and crispy shallots. Alongside the noodles, we ordered a couple of Vietnamese dishes: banh beo and banh xeo. The banh beo, small steamed rice cakes topped with savoury ingredients, offered delicate flavours and soft textures, while the banh xeo, a crispy Vietnamese savoury pancake filled with shrimp and bean sprouts, added a satisfying crunch.
Nong Prajak Park
Later in the afternoon, we headed to Nong Prajak Park, which forms the social heart of Udon Thani. The large lake at its centre is surrounded by walking paths, bridges, gardens, and cycling tracks. The park is instantly recognisable by its giant inflatable yellow ducks floating on the water, a playful landmark that has become something of a symbol of the city. As the evening cooled, locals filled the park to jog, cycle, exercise, and gather with friends.
Walking around the lake gave us a glimpse into everyday life in the city and provided a relaxing break after a busy day of exploring.
Dinner and Night Market
For dinner, we went to Krua Khun-Nid, a Bib Gourmand restaurant that has been serving locals for more than four decades. The restaurant focuses on freshwater fish and traditional Thai dishes served family-style. We had the deep-fried pla som, fermented fish that was crispy, tangy, and packed with flavour, alongside one of the best som tum (papaya) salads I have ever had.
After dinner, we headed toward the train station area to explore the Tea Kappa Train Night Market, wandering through the lively rows of stalls selling snacks, street food, drinks, and clothing. Like many night markets across Thailand, it was a vibrant place to spend the evening before returning to the hotel.
A Day Trip to Nong Khai
The following morning, we woke early to catch the train from Udon Thani to Nong Khai, a small border town on the Mekong River about forty minutes away. The short journey north passes through farmland before eventually reaching the river that forms the natural border between Thailand and Laos. Once known internationally for the refugee camps that operated here during the Vietnam War, Nong Khai today is better known for its relaxed atmosphere and beautiful views across the Mekong River toward the mountains of Laos.
From Nong Khai station, we took a short taxi ride toward the riverside and began the day with breakfast at Hisoviet, a Vietnamese café. The menu focuses on Vietnamese-style noodle soups and classic café dishes, reflecting the strong culinary ties between this part of Thailand and neighbouring Vietnam.
We ordered their well-known khao piak, the comforting rice noodle soup that is popular across northeastern Thailand, along with pan-fried eggs and a basket of soft steamed buns.
Walking Along the Mekong
After breakfast, we spent the morning walking along the Nong Khai riverside promenade. The Mekong is one of Southeast Asia’s great rivers, stretching nearly 5,000 kilometres from the Tibetan Plateau through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam before eventually reaching the sea.
In Nong Khai, the river moves slowly and calmly, with Laos visible just across the water. The atmosphere along the promenade felt relaxed and unhurried. Locals cycled along the riverside paths, vendors sold drinks and snacks, and the wide river created an open landscape very different from the dense cities we had visited earlier in the trip. We rented a couple of bicycles ourselves and spent some time riding along the promenade, which turned out to be one of the nicest ways to take in the views of the Mekong.
Sala Keo Kou
Later in the morning, we cycled to Sala Keo Kou, one of the region’s most unusual attractions. The sculpture park is filled with enormous concrete statues inspired by Buddhist and Hindu mythology. Many of the figures tower above visitors, depicting deities, mythical creatures, and scenes from religious stories.
Created by the mystic Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat in the late twentieth century, the park has an almost surreal atmosphere. Walking among the giant sculptures feels otherworldly, with massive serpents, multi-armed gods, and towering figures rising from the grass.
Lunch, Markets, and Coffee
Back in town, we stopped for lunch at Daeng Namnuang, another Vietnamese restaurant. One of the signature meals here is nam nuang, grilled pork sausage served with fresh herbs, vegetables, and rice paper wrappers that diners assemble into small rolls themselves. We also ordered their famous sugarcane wrapped with minced shrimp, along with fried spring rolls, which made for a delicious spread of Vietnamese-style dishes.
After lunch, we continued to Tha Sadet Market, one of Nong Khai’s best-known markets. Because of the town’s position on the border, the market has long been a place where goods from Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam mix together, and the stalls sell everything from clothing and souvenirs to imported snacks.
Later, we cooled off from the afternoon heat at Dumrong Specialty Coffee, enjoying a final coffee while waiting for our Grab to arrive and take us back to Udon Thani.
Evening in Udon Thani
Back in Udon Thani, as the sun was setting, we visited the Thai-Chinese Cultural Center, where several Chinese temples and sculptures create a particularly atmospheric setting in the evening light. One of the most striking features is a giant white dragon sculpture that winds up a small hill and can be walked around, making it one of the city’s most distinctive landmarks.
For dinner, we wandered around nearby and eventually found Papaya Salad Jay Kai (Branch 2). When we arrived, the staff were already cleaning up and getting ready to close. We looked at them with what must have been fairly obvious puppy eyes, wondering if they were closing even though Google said they were open for another hour or two. They started laughing, probably because they had already begun cleaning, but kindly welcomed us in anyway.
After dinner, we stopped by Bus Station Bar for a beer and listened to some live music for a while, a relaxed way to end the evening before heading back to the hotel.
Conclusion
Udon Thani offered another glimpse into everyday life in Isan, while Nong Khai introduced us to the Mekong River and the cross-border influences that shape this region. Sitting along the river with Laos just across the water, the town felt connected not only to Thailand but to the wider cultures of mainland Southeast Asia.
The next stage of the journey would take us further east along the Mekong as we began a road trip deeper into northeastern Thailand.
What do you think of the Isan region so far? Has it piqued your interest yet?
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