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France

Travel

Cathar Country and the Geography of Resistance

From Carcassonne, the transition into Cathar country is subtle at first. Vineyards still line the road, and villages appear familiar in scale and colour. But as we headed south, the land began to tighten. Valleys narrowed. Hills rose more abruptly. Stone replaced soil, and…

Travel

From the Narbonnaise to Carcassonne, A Road Through Aude

We left Combaillaux early and headed west, leaving the limestone valleys of Hérault behind. The change that followed was subtle rather than dramatic. Vineyards and low hills did not disappear, but the land began to open out, and water behaved differently. Valleys softened into…

Travel

From the Camargue to the Hills: Inland Hérault, France

After two days immersed in the wetlands of the Camargue, the shift inland was immediate and noticeable. We left Aigues-Mortes behind and drove north toward Combaillaux, trading open marshes and wide horizons for vineyards, low hills, and narrower roads. That evening in Combaillaux was…

Travel

Arles Between Rome and Van Gogh

After a full first day arriving in Occitanie and exploring Nîmes, we woke up in Arles, ready for a slower but no less layered day. While Arles is often grouped mentally with Occitanie, it actually sits just across the regional border in Provence, and…

Travel

Paris in November: New Wine, Old Favourites

Paris has always held a special place in my heart, not just for its beauty and charm, but for how much it has changed with each visit. My relationship with the city spans more than a decade, and it’s been marked by tight budgets,…

Paris - Sainte-Chapelle Stained Glass 2
Travel

The Heart of Paris: Île de la Cité

Certainly on everyone’s list is this small island in the middle of the Seine. Île de la Cité is the historic and spiritual heart of Paris, and for good reason. It’s accessible by several bridges across the Seine—something London could probably take a hint…

Paris - Musée d'Orsay 10
Travel

Impressions of Colour: An Afternoon at Musée d’Orsay

It probably goes without saying, but Paris has an astonishing number of incredible museums. The top three are the Louvre, the Centre Pompidou, and the Musée d’Orsay. The d’Orsay holds the world’s largest collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist masterpieces, including works by Monet, Manet,…

Paris Orangerie 7
Travel

Putting the ‘Oh!’ in ‘Orangerie’: Monet’s Finest Hour

From the Louvre to the Musée d’Orsay, Paris is overflowing with spectacular museums. Yet one gem had eluded me, despite walking past it countless times in the Jardin des Tuileries: Musée de l’Orangerie. This particular trip to Paris came about unexpectedly. My uncle and…