Montmartre is one of those places that risks being reduced to a postcard: the white domes of Sacré-Cœur, artists painting in Place du Tertre, steep staircases and café terraces arranged beneath striped awnings.
All of that exists, of course. Parts of Montmartre can be busy, theatrical and unashamedly touristy. But there is also another side to the neighbourhood, found in quiet garden museums, sloping residential streets, ivy-covered buildings and fleeting views across the rooftops of Paris.
I first fell for Montmartre years ago, drawn to its artistic history and the romantic image of painters, writers and musicians gathering in studios and cafés. When Victor and I returned in November 2022, we approached it slowly, beginning at the foot of the hill in South Pigalle and gradually making our way upwards.
Along the way, we found intimate art, excellent croissants, winding streets and one of the most beautiful sunsets of our trip.
Begin at the Musée de la Vie Romantique
Our afternoon began at the Musée de la Vie Romantique, hidden at the end of a cobbled passage on Rue Chaptal. Technically, the museum sits in the 9th arrondissement, in the area known as Nouvelle Athènes, rather than Montmartre itself. But it makes an ideal starting point for a walk towards the hill.
The museum occupies the former home and studios of Ary Scheffer, a Dutch-born painter who settled here in the 1830s. Scheffer welcomed some of the most prominent artistic and literary figures of his time, including George Sand, Frédéric Chopin, Eugène Delacroix and Charles Dickens. Its collections explore Romanticism through Scheffer’s paintings, objects associated with George Sand and the wider cultural world of 19th-century Paris.
The museum feels wonderfully removed from the city outside. Passing through the entrance reveals a tranquil courtyard, a pale house with shuttered windows and a garden that makes the whole place seem more like a private home than a formal institution.
Inside, the rooms are filled with portraits, antique furniture and personal objects. Rather than presenting Romanticism as a distant artistic movement, the museum gives it a sense of intimacy. You begin to imagine the people who gathered here, the conversations that unfolded in the salons and the creative lives that crossed one another within these rooms.
When we visited, it felt like a lovingly preserved sanctuary where time had briefly stopped. The museum reopened in February 2026 following an extensive renovation and a redesign of its displays. Its permanent collections remain free to visit, making it an especially worthwhile addition to a Montmartre itinerary.
Through South Pigalle
From the museum, we continued towards Pigalle. This part of Paris has a very different energy from the quiet courtyard we had just left behind. The streets become livelier, with theatres, music venues, restaurants and traces of the neighbourhood’s long association with nightlife.
Eventually, the red windmill of the Moulin Rouge appeared above the surrounding buildings. Even when you have seen it reproduced endlessly in films, posters and souvenirs, there is still something exciting about encountering it in person.
We did not stop for a show, but the building provided a dramatic marker on our route: from here, we began climbing towards Abbesses and the heart of Montmartre.
Croissants in Abbesses
The walk uphill required some fuel, so we stopped at Le Grenier à Pain Abbesses Bodian. There are few better ways to punctuate a walk through Paris than with a warm pastry eaten outside a bakery. We bought croissants and stood nearby, tearing through crisp, flaky layers while watching people move through the neighbourhood.
The croissants were buttery and comforting, exactly what we needed before continuing up the hill. Abbesses makes a good place to pause before entering the busiest part of Montmartre. The streets around the metro station still feel lively and local, lined with bakeries, independent shops, neighbourhood bars and people going about their day.
From here, the route becomes less direct. Streets curve, steps appear unexpectedly, and every upward turn seems to reveal another sliver of the city below.
The Streets of Montmartre
The best way to experience Montmartre is to allow yourself to wander. We followed cobbled lanes past shuttered windows, old apartment buildings and walls softened by ivy. Some streets were crowded, while others were surprisingly still. A few turns away from the main routes, the noise faded, and Montmartre began to feel almost like a village suspended above Paris.
That sense of discovery is part of what makes the area so appealing. Montmartre is not beautiful because every street is immaculate. Its charm comes from irregularity: buildings pressed against steep slopes, staircases cutting between houses, plants spilling over walls and glimpses of rooftops appearing between narrow passages.
It is also impossible to separate Montmartre from its artistic reputation. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the area attracted artists who were drawn by its relatively inexpensive studios, lively cabarets and position beyond the conventional centre of Parisian society.
That history can sometimes feel heavily packaged for visitors, but the neighbourhood’s creative identity has not disappeared entirely. It survives in its museums, studios and the artists still working around Place du Tertre. Montmartre remains one of the places most closely associated with the development of modern art in Paris.
Place du Tertre
Eventually, we arrived at Place du Tertre, one of Montmartre’s most recognisable squares. Artists and portraitists set up their easels around its edges, while restaurant terraces fill much of the remaining space. It can be crowded, and it is certainly not a hidden corner of Paris, but it still forms an important part of the Montmartre experience.
The square once served as the centre of the former village of Montmartre. Today, artists share a limited number of designated working spaces, painting Parisian scenes and creating portraits for passing visitors.
I enjoy seeing the square, but I would not spend the entire afternoon there. Montmartre becomes more atmospheric once you move beyond its busiest centre and return to the smaller surrounding streets.
The real pleasure lies in the contrast: the activity and spectacle of Place du Tertre, followed by a quiet staircase or residential lane only a few minutes away.
Sacré-Cœur
From Place du Tertre, we continued towards the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur. The basilica sits at the highest point of the hill, its pale stone and rounded domes visible from across Paris. Its Romanesque-Byzantine design distinguishes it from the city’s Gothic churches, giving it a striking silhouette that seems both monumental and slightly otherworldly.
Sacré-Cœur is one of the most visited places in Paris, and the streets surrounding it can become extremely busy. Yet the building still has the power to impress, particularly when approached at the end of a long climb. Entry to the basilica itself is free, and it currently opens every day from 6:30 a.m. until 10:30 p.m.
Inside, the scale changes dramatically. The bright exterior gives way to a darker and more solemn interior, crowned by the enormous mosaic above the choir. Christ is shown with his arms extended, surrounded by religious and historical figures connected with France and the Sacred Heart.
Even during a busy day, the interior feels removed from the crowds gathered on the steps outside. It is worth allowing time to adjust to the dimmer light and take in the mosaic, chapels, stained glass and the height of the domed ceiling.
Sunset Over Paris
For all the history and architecture, one of the greatest pleasures of visiting Sacré-Cœur is simply standing outside and looking over Paris. We reached the top as golden hour was beginning. The rooftops below were washed in shades of pink, amber and soft grey, stretching towards the horizon. In the distance, the Eiffel Tower rose above the city.
After the climb through South Pigalle, Abbesses and Montmartre’s winding streets, the view felt like a reward.
It was not my first time at Sacré-Cœur, but this visit felt different. Perhaps it was the late autumn light, or the fact that we had taken our time reaching it. Rather than arriving simply to tick off another Paris landmark, we had spent the afternoon gradually moving through the neighbourhood and watching its character change.
The view brought all of those different versions of Montmartre together: its crowded squares, quiet museums, nightlife, bakeries, staircases, religious history and artistic mythology.
A Half-Day Montmartre Walking Route
I would allow at least half a day for this route, particularly if you plan to visit the museum and enter the basilica. Begin at the Musée de la Vie Romantique, then walk towards Pigalle and pass the Moulin Rouge. Continue uphill into Abbesses, stopping for a pastry at Le Grenier à Pain, before wandering through Montmartre’s quieter streets.
From there, make your way towards Place du Tertre and finish at Sacré-Cœur.
Timing the final climb for late afternoon allows you to see the neighbourhood in softer light and, with luck, watch the sun set over Paris.
Wear comfortable shoes. The hills and staircases are an essential part of Montmartre, but they are much easier to appreciate when your feet are prepared for them.
Next up: a visit to the Orangerie Museum, home to some of Monet’s most breathtaking works.
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