It probably goes without saying, but Paris has an astonishing number of incredible museums. The top three are the Louvre, the Centre Pompidou, and the Musée d’Orsay. The d’Orsay holds the world’s largest collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist masterpieces, including works by Monet, Manet, Degas, Renoir, Cézanne, Seurat, Sisley, Gauguin, and Van Gogh. My heart swelled the moment we arrived, and I immediately sensed I would be overwhelmed by the beauty inside.
As Victor and I approached the museum, our excitement was met with the sight of a long, winding line. Just a heads-up for fellow travellers: the Musée d’Orsay is famous not only for its collection but also for having some of the longest lines in Paris. Still, with only a long weekend to explore, we didn’t want to miss the opportunity. The wait ended up being about an hour. But really, what’s time when you’re surrounded by this much magic?
The Building
Once inside, we grabbed a map and headed straight for the top floor, where the Impressionist and Post-Impressionist galleries are located. Before reaching the artwork, you pass through a lively modern café tucked behind one of the museum’s iconic clock faces. It’s a striking space, and if you feel like you’re in a train station, that’s because you are.
The building was originally constructed in 1900 for the Exposition Universelle, the World’s Fair. At the time, it was the first electrified urban rail terminal in the world. Eventually, it became unsuitable for modern trains and was repurposed several times before reopening as a museum in 1986. That’s when the real magic begins.
Monet
No trip to France is complete without some kind of Monet experience. While the most immersive one is at the Orangerie, the d’Orsay features a generous collection of his works. One thing I learned here is that Monet loved painting in series. I started noticing the pattern when I kept coming across versions of his Water Lilies.
Victor’s favourite series is the Houses of Parliament, which feels especially fitting now that we live in London. One of the paintings in this series at the d’Orsay stands out with rich red and orange tones set against a heavy fog. It’s one of the most striking pieces in the collection.
Of course, the Water Lilies series is Monet’s most famous, with more than 250 paintings. His Japanese Bridge series, which also features water lilies, is another favourite among visitors.
He also painted 26 views of the Rouen Cathedral. Monet rented spaces across the street to create temporary studios just for this project. His focus and dedication come through in every canvas.
One particularly beautiful pairing on display is Woman with a Parasol and a later painting from 1886. In the second work, he returns to a similar subject, featuring his stepdaughter Suzanne Monet with a parasol in a meadow at Giverny. Seeing them side by side is a quiet thrill.
Other Artists
Van Gogh’s presence is strong with his painting Chaumes de Cordeville à Auvers-sur-Oise, created in 1890.
Renoir also makes an impression, particularly with two pieces meant to be viewed together: Dance in the City and Dance in the Country. They contrast urban sophistication with rural charm in a way that feels both deliberate and natural.
Manet’s Olympia is another unforgettable piece. When it was first shown in 1865, it shocked viewers, not because of the nudity, which was fairly common in art, but because Olympia was clearly a sex worker. Her appearance, the flower in her hair, the black ribbon around her neck, and the shawl beneath her all hinted at this. Even if you’ve never seen Olympia before, the pose might look familiar. Think of Titian’s Venus of Urbino or Goya’s La Maja Desnuda.
The Musée d’Orsay is absolutely worth visiting. While the Louvre draws most of the crowds, the d’Orsay is just as rich and much more approachable. Try going early in the day or during the quieter afternoon hours to make the most of it. One helpful tip: admission is free on the first Sunday of each month.
And don’t miss the café. It’s a beautiful space and the perfect place to rest after exploring so much art.
Next up on my Paris trip: a walk down memory lane in the heart of the city.
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