After several days exploring temples, national parks, and river landscapes along the Mekong, we arrived in Ubon Ratchathani, one of the largest cities in northeastern Thailand.
Although Ubon is known as a major provincial centre, our first impression was how relaxed and approachable it felt. Like many cities in Isan, it combines the energy of a regional hub with the atmosphere of a much smaller town. Quiet neighbourhood streets sit just minutes away from lively markets and cafés, and the pace of life feels noticeably slower than in Thailand’s larger metropolitan areas.
Thung Sri Mueang Park
After checking into our hotel, we headed out for a walk around Thung Sri Mueang, often described as Ubon’s version of a “Central Park.” The park was once a rice paddy before being transformed into a public green space during the reign of King Rama V. Today, it acts as the social heart of the city, particularly in the evening when locals gather to walk, exercise, and relax as the temperature cools.
One of the park’s most striking landmarks is the golden Candle Monument, a tribute to the city’s famous Candle Festival held each year during Buddhist Lent. Nearby stands the City Pillar Shrine, where residents come to pray and make merit.
As sunset approached, the park gradually filled with families, joggers, and food vendors selling snacks along the pathways.
Thung Si Mueang Night Market
Just beside the park, the Thung Sri Muang Night Market was beginning to come alive. The market draws both locals and visitors seeking inexpensive street food and desserts. Stalls sold everything from grilled meats to Thai sweets, and the lively atmosphere made it a fun place to wander before dinner.
Dinner in Ubon
For dinner, we went to Somtum Jinda Restaurant, a local favourite specialising in classic Isan dishes. The restaurant had the lively, informal atmosphere typical of many northeastern Thai eateries, where bold flavours and generous portions take centre stage.
We ordered a papaya salad with crispy catfish, a spicy fish salad, and a whole fried fish to share. Like many Isan meals, the dishes were vibrant and intensely flavoured, balancing heat, lime, fish sauce, and fresh herbs. The crispy catfish added a wonderful texture to the papaya salad, while the spicy fish salad was bright and refreshing.
While we were finishing dinner, I noticed a small cart near the entrance displaying a colourful assortment of traditional Thai desserts. Naturally, we could not resist and ordered a tray with a selection to try.
The sweets were beautifully presented, many shaped like delicate flowers and other intricate forms. These traditional treats are often handmade and commonly incorporate ingredients such as coconut milk, mung bean paste, and pandan leaf for flavour and colour. The tray felt almost too pretty to eat, but the desserts were just as delicious as they looked.
Arriving in Korat
The following morning, we caught an early train north to Nakhon Ratchasima, more commonly known as Korat. As the first major city travellers encounter when heading northeast from Bangkok, Korat occupies a unique position in the region. Although it sits within Isan, many locals see the city as culturally distinct, with its own traditions, cuisine, and identity.
After arriving in the city, we stopped for lunch at เฮียแกะ หอยทอด ผัดไทยโบราณ, a local restaurant known for traditional Thai dishes. We ordered pad thai and an oyster omelette, both of which were delicious and made for a satisfying introduction to the city’s food scene.
Korat’s cuisine has its own character as well. One well-known dish is pad mee Korat, which resembles pad thai but is typically made with fermented soybean sauce and extra chillies, giving it a bolder flavour.
Coffee Break
After lunch, we stopped for coffee at Degree Celsius, which turned out to have some of the best coffee we had anywhere in Thailand. The café itself was beautifully designed, modern, stylish, and thoughtfully curated. Large windows filled the space with natural light, and the minimalist interior gave it a relaxed, contemporary feel that stood out from many of the more traditional cafés we had visited during the trip.
Thailand has developed a surprisingly strong coffee culture in recent years, and places like Degree Celsius show just how seriously many cafés now approach both roasting and brewing.
I ordered their dirty coffee, a drink that has become increasingly popular in many Asian cafés. It consists of hot espresso poured over very cold milk, often served in a chilled glass so the layers remain distinct. The result is a creamy, smooth coffee with a rich espresso flavour but much less bitterness.
Exploring Downtown Korat
Afterwards, we spent some time walking around downtown Korat, taking in the mix of architecture that reflects the city’s unique cultural identity. Many buildings combine elements of central Thai and Isan styles, giving the city a distinctive character.
One of the most important landmarks in Korat is the statue of Thao Suranaree, affectionately known as Ya Mo. She is celebrated as the heroine who helped defend the city against an invasion from the Kingdom of Vientiane in the nineteenth century.
Today her statue stands at the centre of the city and remains a major place of pilgrimage. Many residents come here daily to pay their respects, and an annual festival held in her honour takes place each year in late March and early April.
Seeing the statue and the surrounding city centre offered a fascinating glimpse into the local pride and identity that make Korat feel distinct even within Isan.
Dinner in Korat
After exploring the city centre, we stopped for a drink before heading to dinner at Radna Suanmak, a long-standing local restaurant that has been serving the community for more than 30 years.
Despite its modest setting, the restaurant has built up a loyal following among locals and has earned recognition from the Michelin Guide. The menu focuses on classic Thai noodle dishes prepared with care, and we ordered their famous crispy noodle stir-fry with holy basil. The flavours were bold and comforting, and the lively atmosphere made it clear that this was a beloved neighbourhood spot.
Phanom Rung Historical Park
The next morning, we woke very early for breakfast before setting off to explore some of the ancient temples outside the city. At a small local restaurant nearby, we had congee, a warm bowl of rice porridge that felt like the perfect way to begin the day. Shortly afterwards, we met our driver and began the journey east toward Phanom Rung Historical Park, arriving just after 8 a.m.
Located about two hours from Korat in neighbouring Buriram Province, Phanom Rung is one of the most impressive Khmer temple complexes in Thailand. Between the 10th and 13th centuries, this region formed part of the vast Khmer Empire that once stretched from Angkor Wat in Cambodia across much of mainland Southeast Asia. Phanom Rung was built during this period as a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva.
What makes the site particularly remarkable is its location on the rim of an extinct volcano. The temple was designed to symbolically represent Mount Kailash, the mythical home of Shiva. Visitors approach the temple along a long ceremonial walkway lined with sandstone posts topped with lotus carvings before ascending a grand staircase leading to the central sanctuary.
Inside the complex, intricately carved stone lintels depict scenes from Hindu mythology, offering a glimpse into the spiritual world of the Khmer Empire.
Arriving early in the morning meant the temple was still relatively quiet, and the soft morning light made the sandstone architecture especially beautiful.
Prasat Muang Tam
Just a short drive from Phanom Rung lies another Khmer temple complex: Prasat Muang Tam. Although smaller than its neighbour, the temple has a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere. The complex sits within landscaped grounds surrounded by rectangular pools and lotus ponds, giving the ruins a calm and reflective setting.
Prasat Muang Tam was built around the 10th century and formed part of the same religious landscape that included Phanom Rung. While Phanom Rung sits dramatically on the rim of an extinct volcano, Muang Tam occupies the flatter plains below. Together, the two temples likely functioned as part of a larger sacred complex connected to the Khmer Empire.
One of the most distinctive features of the site is the series of large water reservoirs, or barays, that surround the central sanctuary. In Khmer temple architecture, water symbolises the cosmic ocean that surrounds Mount Meru, the mythical centre of the universe in Hindu cosmology. The reflective pools and lotus-filled ponds create a peaceful setting that contrasts beautifully with the sandstone ruins.
The temple itself consists of a series of courtyards enclosed by laterite walls, with four corner towers and a central sanctuary. Many of the lintels and carvings depict scenes from Hindu mythology, though the overall layout feels more intimate than the grand scale of Phanom Rung.
Walking through the quiet courtyards offered a chance to slow down and appreciate the details of the architecture after the grandeur of the larger temple. With far fewer visitors around, the atmosphere felt calm and almost meditative.
Back in Korat
After visiting both temple complexes, we returned to Korat for lunch at Sow Jeck Pochana, a popular local restaurant known for its seafood dishes.
We ordered several plates to share, including crab fried rice, stir-fried seafood with curry powder, stir-fried shrimp with basil, and a whole fried fish. The meal felt like a classic Thai lunch spread, with dishes arriving one after another to be shared around the table.
The crab fried rice was fragrant and light, while the seafood with curry powder had a rich, savoury flavour that paired well with the rice. The shrimp with basil added a bit of heat, and the crispy fried fish tied everything together. After a morning spent exploring ancient temples, it was the perfect way to recharge before heading back out to wander the city again.
The afternoon was relaxed. We wandered through the streets around the city centre again, enjoying the atmosphere and taking in more of the architecture that gives the city its distinctive character. For dinner, we went to เฮียแกะ หอยทอด ผัดไทยโบราณ, a local restaurant known for its pad thai and oyster omelettes. The menu featured several variations of the classic oyster omelette, ranging from crispy versions to softer styles.
We ordered pad thai with grilled prawns, along with one of the more gently cooked oyster omelettes. When it arrived, it looked almost jiggly, but the texture turned out to be wonderfully soft and rich, with the oysters adding a subtle briny flavour. Both dishes were excellent, and it was easy to see why the restaurant is so popular with locals.
Morning in Korat
The next morning we started the day with breakfast at เฉลียวจิตต์ คาเฟ่ ในเมือง. The café is known for two classic morning dishes: pa tong go (ปาท่องโก๋), airy deep-fried dough sticks that are popular in Thai and Chinese breakfast traditions, and congee, a comforting bowl of rice porridge.
We ordered both. The pa tong go were freshly fried and wonderfully light, perfect for dipping, while the warm congee made for a simple and satisfying start to the day before heading out to explore more of the city.
Our first stop was Wat Phayap Phra Aram Luang, a peaceful temple located not far from the city centre. One of the most unusual features of the temple is a cave-like interior space beneath the main structure, where visitors can walk through a dimly lit passage decorated with Buddhist statues and natural rock formations.
Afterwards, we took a walk along the old city moat, which still traces the outline of the historic centre of Korat. The quiet streets and tree-lined waterway made for a pleasant morning stroll.
Lunch at Yommarat O-Cha
For lunch, we went to Yommarat O-Cha, a long-standing local restaurant known for its yentafo noodle soup.
The version served here is slightly different from the spicy tom yum style often found in Bangkok. Instead, the broth has a gentler balance of sweet and sour flavours and comes filled with homemade toppings such as fish balls and tofu.
It was a simple but excellent bowl of noodles and a perfect way to end our time in the city.
Leaving Korat
By the afternoon, it was time to continue our journey. Korat had offered a fascinating glimpse into the culture and history of northeastern Thailand — from its proud local identity and lively food scene to the impressive Khmer temples scattered across the surrounding countryside.
Our next stop would take us into nature once again as we headed toward Khao Yai National Park.
Have you visited Korat or Ubon Ratchathani? Let me know your favourite places in northeastern Thailand.
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