After visiting Ho Chi Minh’s house in the village of Ban Na Chok, we continued our road trip south along the Mekong. This stretch of northeastern Thailand follows the river closely, passing temples, small border towns, and wide open landscapes along the Thai–Lao border.
Our first stop of the day was one of the most important religious sites in the region.
Wat Phra That Phanom
About fifty minutes south of Nakhon Phanom lies Wat Phra That Phanom, one of the most sacred Buddhist pilgrimage sites in northeastern Thailand. At the centre of the temple complex stands a striking 53-metre-high chedi (stupa) believed to contain relics of the Buddha. According to Buddhist tradition, the relics were brought here after the Buddha instructed his disciple Mahakasyapa that they should be enshrined at this site so that Buddhism would flourish in the region.
Today, pilgrims from across Thailand come here to pray and walk around the gleaming white and gold pagoda. Visitors remove their shoes before approaching the square-shaped stupa, which stands on a broad courtyard of bright white tiles that reflect the sunlight.
Although the temple dates back many centuries, the current structure is relatively recent. In 1975, the original pagoda collapsed following an earthquake and heavy rainstorms, and the temple was later rebuilt on top of the original clay base. The sacred relics inside, however, were preserved.
Walking around the temple grounds, it was clear that this was not simply a historical site but an important place of devotion for many Thai visitors.
Mukdahan and the Indochina Market
Continuing south along the Mekong, we stopped briefly in Mukdahan, another riverside town that serves as an important trading point between Thailand and Laos.
Here we explored the Indochina Market, a lively market filled with stalls selling clothing, snacks, household goods, and souvenirs. The market reflects the cross-border trade that has long shaped life along the Mekong, with products arriving from neighbouring countries as well as from China and Vietnam.
After a quick wander through the market, we continued driving further south.
Sam Phan Bok
One of the most remarkable natural sites along the Mekong is Sam Phan Bok, whose name loosely translates to “three thousand holes.” Over centuries, the Mekong River has carved thousands of circular depressions and craters into the soft sandstone rock along the riverbank. When the water level drops during the dry season, typically between November and February, the rocky landscape emerges, creating an almost otherworldly terrain.
Walking across the rock formations felt a little like exploring the surface of the moon. Pools of water filled some of the craters, while others formed unusual shapes that have earned their own names.
One of the most famous formations is the “Mickey Mouse Hole,” where three circular pools resemble the famous cartoon character when viewed from above. Other landmarks include narrow rock canyons, sandstone bridges, and deep holes carved by centuries of flowing water.
It was an incredible place to explore and easily one of the most memorable landscapes we saw during our journey through Isan.
After visiting Sam Phan Bok, we continued driving toward Ubon Ratchathani. By this point in the trip, Victor was unfortunately starting to feel quite ill, so we decided to slow things down for the evening and check into Plaifah Resort Ubon early to rest. It was a quiet and comfortable place to spend the night and gave us a chance to recover before continuing the journey the following day.
Pha Taem National Park
The following morning, we drove to Pha Taem National Park, located near the Thai–Lao border, about an hour from Khong Chiam. The park is best known for its dramatic cliffs overlooking the Mekong and for its prehistoric rock paintings, some of which are believed to be around 4,000 years old.
In the past, locals referred to the cliffs as the “mountain of death,” believing them too dangerous to climb. Today, well-maintained paths allow visitors to walk along the base of the cliffs and view the ancient paintings up close.
The paintings stretch for several kilometres along the rock face and depict scenes from prehistoric life, including fish traps, animals such as elephants and giant catfish, and figures engaged in agricultural activities.
Although some of the images have faded over time, it is remarkable to see artwork created thousands of years ago still visible on the cliff walls. I found the experience surprisingly moving. Many prehistoric paintings in Europe are protected inside restricted caves and aren’t accessible to the public, so standing here in the open air and seeing these ancient images with my own eyes felt incredibly special.
Lunch by the River
After exploring the park, we stopped for lunch at Pae Araya, a floating restaurant located near the confluence of the Mekong and Mun rivers.
Fresh fish is delivered to the restaurant each morning, and many of the dishes feature river fish cooked in bold local Isan flavours. Sitting on the floating platform with the gentle movement of the water below and the river stretching out in front of us made it a memorable place to stop.
Khong Chiam
After lunch, we checked into Tohsang Heritage Khongjiam Resort. The hotel sits on a hillside overlooking the river and offers beautiful views across the surrounding landscape. It was easily one of the most beautiful hotels we stayed in during the trip, the kind of place that makes you wish you had booked an extra night.
We spent the afternoon relaxing by the pool and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. Later, we had coffee and cake while watching the sunset over the river before heading into town to find some dinner.
Waterfalls of Pha Taem
The next morning, we returned to Pha Taem National Park, this time to explore some of the park’s waterfalls. We visited Saeng Chan Waterfall, perhaps the most famous in the park, where water flows through a circular hole in the rock before dropping into the pool below.
In some areas near the park, we came across fields of small wildflowers stretching across the landscape. The bright purple and yellow colours contrasted beautifully with the dry grasses and rocky terrain, adding an unexpected softness to the scenery.
From several viewpoints along the park road, the land suddenly opens up into dramatic cliffs overlooking the Mekong valley. From the edge, you can see far across the river into Laos, with forests and hills stretching into the distance.
Standing there, it’s easy to understand why this area is known for having some of the most spectacular viewpoints in northeastern Thailand.
Our final stop in the park was Soi Sawan Waterfall, another beautiful cascade surrounded by forest. Compared with Saeng Chan, the setting felt quieter and more secluded, with the water flowing gently over layered rock into the pool below.
It was a peaceful place to pause before continuing our journey through Isan.
Driving to Ubon Ratchathani
We decided to have another lunch at Pae Araya. Sitting once again beside the river with the breeze coming off the water felt like the perfect pause before the next stage of the trip. This time we ordered some delicious tiny fried fish and a couple of fish salads, simple but incredibly flavourful dishes that perfectly matched the relaxed riverside setting.
After lunch, we continued our journey to Ubon Ratchathani, where we returned our rental car and checked into our hotel. Our Mekong road trip through Isan had come to an end, but our exploration of northeastern Thailand was far from over.
The next stage of the trip would take us deeper into the city, one of the region’s largest and most culturally significant.
Stay tuned for the next part of this adventure!
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