After a great day at Tokyo DisneySea, we left early the next morning from Shinjuku Station to Hakone-Yumoto Station. The train ride out of Tokyo felt like slipping into another world. Skyscrapers and highways slowly gave way to forested hills, small towns, and rivers winding through the valleys. As the air grew cooler and the scenery greener, it was clear we had left the city behind. Hakone, with its stunning mountain landscapes, hot springs, and breathtaking views of Mount Fuji, felt like the perfect place to unwind after several busy days in Tokyo.
Exploring Hakone
Once we arrived at Hakone-Yumoto Station, we stopped by the Hakone Luggage Transport Service counter to drop off our bags. The service accepts luggage until 12:30 p.m., and we were told it would be delivered to our ryokan from 3:00 p.m. It was incredibly convenient and meant we could explore freely without worrying about our suitcases.
We started our day by taking the Hakone Tozan Bus to Hakonemachi, where our first stop was the Hakone Checkpoint. This historic site was once one of the most important checkpoints along the Tōkaidō Road, the route connecting Kyoto and Edo during the Edo period. The restored wooden gates, watchtowers, and small museum offered a glimpse into Japan’s feudal past, when travellers were required to present permits to pass through.
From the lookout near the checkpoint, we caught our first glimpse of Mount Fuji, faint but majestic in the distance. Seeing it rise above the lake and mountains felt almost surreal, a reminder of why Hakone has long been a place of rest and reflection for travellers.
From the checkpoint, we walked along a stretch of the Old Tōkaidō Road, a quiet stone-paved path shaded by tall cedar trees. It was peaceful and atmospheric, a welcome change from the bustle of Tokyo. By the time we reached the port, we were ready for a quick lunch stop, so we ducked into a 7-Eleven nearby. I grabbed a fried shrimp sandwich, which was surprisingly delicious, along with some mitarashi dango. Simple, satisfying, and perfect for a day of exploring.
After lunch, we boarded the Hakone Sightseeing Cruise at Motohakone Pier, which takes place on a large pirate-style ship that sails across Lake Ashi. It was whimsical and a little unexpected, with tall masts, decorative details, and crew members dressed in themed uniforms. Surrounded by mountain scenery and occasionally offering glimpses of Mount Fuji through the clouds, the cruise provided a relaxed and scenic way to explore more of Hakone. From the boat, we could see the striking Heiwa no Torii, the bright red Gate of Peace belonging to Hakone Shrine, standing gracefully in the water near the forested shore. Its vivid colour contrasted beautifully with the deep blue of the lake and the greenery behind it, one of those postcard-perfect scenes that captures the calm beauty of Hakone.
From Togendai Pier, we transferred to the Hakone Ropeway, a scenic cable car that glides high above the valley. As we rose into the sky, we passed directly over Owakudani, a dramatic volcanic area created by the eruption of Mount Hakone around 3,000 years ago. Below us, plumes of steam drifted from the rocky landscape, carrying the distinct smell of sulfur. The contrast between the rugged volcanic terrain and the distant views of Mount Fuji was striking. It felt otherworldly, a reminder of Japan’s powerful natural forces coexisting with its serene beauty.
From the ropeway, we took the Hakone Tozan Cable Car down to Gora Station, then boarded the Hakone Tozan Train to Miyanoshita Station. The final part of our journey was a short walk of about fifteen minutes to our ryokan for the night. The quiet streets, lined with traditional buildings and the sound of rushing water from nearby streams, made for a peaceful end to a full day of exploring.
Tsukinoya Ryokan
We stayed at Tsukinoya, a lovely family-run ryokan nestled in the quiet hills of Miyanoshita. We arrived around 4 p.m. and were warmly greeted before being shown to our room, a beautiful, traditional Japanese space with tatami mats, sliding shoji doors, and a low table set with tea and sweets. The simplicity of the design felt instantly calming.
After settling in, we changed into our yukata, the light cotton pyjamas provided in the room, and decided to visit the onsen. Tsukinoya has two indoor baths, one of which is quite spacious. One of the lovely things about staying here is that the onsens are private, rather than shared, a bit of a rarity in Japan. Guests can either book a slot in advance or check if one is free. It was especially nice that the baths were mixed, meaning my partner and I could relax together instead of me joining his mother, which would have been quite the experience.
Before entering the onsen, there is a small changing area where you leave your clothes and wash thoroughly at the shower stations. Cleanliness is essential, so you must be completely washed and rinsed before stepping into the hot spring water. The onsen itself is for soaking and relaxing, not for washing. Once inside, the warm mineral-rich water seeped into our muscles, and it was easy to understand why bathing is such an integral part of Japanese culture. The experience felt both soothing and grounding, the steam rising gently against the wooden walls as the world outside grew quiet.
Dinner in Miyanoshita
After our relaxing soak, we changed back into our yukata and prepared for dinner. Our ryokan host kindly arranged a reservation at Mori-meshi, just across from Miyanoshita Station. The small, welcoming space had a casual, local feel, perfect after a day of sightseeing and onsen relaxation.
We started with aji furai, deep-fried horse mackerel, crispy on the outside and tender inside. I had a rice set meal. I chose the tuna sashimi and tuba bowl, featuring bluefin tuna and tofu skin in a delicate jelly sauce, served with rice and miso soup. Victor had fish and oroshi udon, cold noodles topped with steamed whitebait and grated white radish, which was light, refreshing, and perfectly chewy. For dessert, we shared a yuzu sorbet and a soy milk panna cotta, smooth, creamy, and subtly sweet. The meal highlighted the balance and care that Japanese cuisine is known for.
After dinner, we returned to Tsukinoya to relax. We spent the evening reading and enjoying the crisp autumn air from the comfort of our cosy room. The quiet of the mountains, combined with the warmth of the tatami and soft lighting, made it the perfect end to a full day.
Day Two: Breakfast at Saien
The next morning, we woke to a dense fog that blanketed the valley, giving Hakone an ethereal, otherworldly atmosphere. We headed to Saien, a serene spot where breakfast is inspired by traditional Buddhist vegetarian cuisine.
The meal featured a variety of seasonal vegetarian dishes, served on trays originally used by monks in the historic “Grand Ryokan with a gourd motif” that once existed in Miyanoshita. Each dish was carefully prepared, reflecting generations of temple cooking and emphasising mindfulness and balance.
Dessert consisted of seasonal sweets, from monaka wafers and kudzu jelly to Western-style arrangements. All were plant-based and delicately flavoured, providing a light and thoughtful end to the meal.
Hakone Open-Air Museum
After breakfast, we took a taxi to the Hakone Open-Air Museum, an expansive outdoor space where art and nature blend seamlessly. We began indoors, exploring one of the exhibition halls that showcased vibrant installations and sculptures, offering a quiet contrast to the grey, rainy weather outside.
Stepping out into the open air, umbrellas in hand, we wandered among the museum’s outdoor sculptures. Set against the misty backdrop of Hakone’s rolling hills, the pieces felt alive in the rain, some playful and bright, others contemplative and still. Even with the drizzle, it was easy to lose ourselves in the atmosphere, surrounded by art that seemed to shift with every step.
Before leaving, we stopped at the museum café to warm up and enjoy a sweet melonpan. It was the perfect way to end our visit, a cosy moment of calm before continuing our journey.
Heading Home
After exploring the museum, we returned to our ryokan to pack up our belongings. From Miyanoshita Station, we took the train back to Hakone-Yumoto, where we transferred to a train bound for Shin-Osaka Station, continuing to our next destination. Leaving Hakone felt bittersweet. The serene mountains, crisp autumn air, and peaceful ryokan stay had been a perfect escape from the bustle of Tokyo, and it was hard not to linger just a little longer.
Have you ever experienced the calm of a Japanese mountain town like Hakone, or visited a traditional ryokan?
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