Every year, my family usually gathers in Virginia for Christmas at the family home. It is a tradition we all love, but in 2023, we decided to try something new. Instead of the snowy woods of Virginia, we headed south for a holiday in New Orleans.
Victor and I flew out of London on December 23rd, connecting in Houston before finally landing in New Orleans late that evening. My parents and brothers had arrived earlier in the day, and by the time we reached our Airbnb, a beautiful and spacious house big enough for all of us, the city was already buzzing with holiday energy.
Christmas Eve in the Crescent City
Christmas Eve morning greeted us with drizzle, but we did not let the rain stop us. New Orleans is known for going all out with festive decorations, and we made it our mission to tour the most beautifully decorated hotel lobbies in town.
Our first stop was The Roosevelt Hotel, famous for its spectacular hallway of Christmas trees twinkling with thousands of lights. From there, we wandered over to The Ritz-Carlton New Orleans, whose elegant décor was just as impressive.
We then went on to the Hotel Monteleone, where the charm of the historic Carousel Bar peeked out from behind the holiday sparkle.
Needing a warm break, we ducked into Café Beignet on Royal Street for a plate of powdered-sugar-covered beignets and mugs of chicory coffee. Sweet, rich, and messy in the best way, it was the perfect pause in our holiday stroll.
Energised again, we popped into The Royal Sonesta New Orleans to admire its seasonal displays before heading toward lunch.
A Southern Christmas Brunch
Lunch that day turned out to be one of the highlights of the whole trip: Willa Jean, a modern Southern spot with cosy vibes and comfort food done brilliantly.
I ordered the shrimp and grits, with plump Gulf shrimp in an étouffée-style gravy served over cheesy grits with a perfectly poached egg on top. Victor went with Grandma’s sausage gravy on biscuits, and both of us agreed the dishes were so good they alone were worth the trip. Willa Jean quickly became one of our favourite food memories from the week.
Rest, Then Réveillon
After a long morning and early afternoon of wandering, eating, and dodging raindrops, we headed back to our Airbnb for a rest before dinner. That evening, we went to the French Quarter for something very New Orleans: a Réveillon dinner.
Réveillon is a Creole tradition dating back to the 19th century, originally celebrated after midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. Today, many restaurants in New Orleans continue the tradition with special holiday menus. We had our Réveillon dinner at Tujague’s, one of the city’s most historic restaurants, and it was the perfect way to end Christmas Eve.
The meal was four courses, and Victor and I decided to share our starters: a rich, comforting oyster chowder and delicate shrimp-and-goat-cheese crêpes. The second course was a crisp house salad topped with a bright sugar cane vinaigrette.
For my main, I chose the pan-roasted Gulf fish, served with beluga lentils, winter root vegetables, dill crème fraîche, and a touch of choupique caviar. And finally, dessert: a warm apple spice cake with vanilla ice cream and salted caramel sauce, the kind of ending that feels both festive and indulgent.
We went to bed that night in our new Christmas pyjamas, happy and full.
Christmas Day
The next morning began with the familiar comfort of family traditions, even in a new setting. We gathered around to open presents, the house filled with wrapping paper, laughter, and the smell of brunch cooking in the kitchen.
My mum prepared a delicious spread of sausage, egg, and cheese biscuits alongside golden French toast, and we even had an early King Cake to bring a little extra Louisiana flair to the morning. It was the perfect balance of home comforts and local flavour.
Strolling the Garden District
After brunch, we set out to explore one of New Orleans’ most elegant neighbourhoods: the Garden District. To guide us, we used NOLA Tour Guy’s free self-guided walking tour, which was perfect for wandering at our own pace and learning a bit of history along the way.
Highlights included the Jefferson Davis House, the Brevard-Rice House, once owned by author Anne Rice, and Colonel Short’s Villa with its famous cornstalk fence. Each stop offered a different architectural style, from Greek Revival to Italianate, and together they created a portrait of 19th-century New Orleans grandeur. The quiet, oak-lined streets were the perfect contrast to the lively French Quarter.
Into the Quarter
Later in the day, we returned to the Old Quarter and walked through Jackson Square. The historic square was dressed for the season, with Christmas decorations and twinkling lights adding to the charm of the wrought-iron balconies and the backdrop of the St. Louis Cathedral. It felt both timeless and festive, a magical way to close out Christmas Day.
Boxing Day Adventure: Into the Bayou
After two days of exploring New Orleans’ streets, history, and holiday sparkle, we decided to change things up and experience a different side of Louisiana. On Boxing Day, we headed out of the city for a Honey Island Swamp Tour, and it turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip.
The boats, some covered and some uncovered, take you deep into the heart of the Honey Island Cypress Swamp, a vast and largely untouched wetland just outside New Orleans. Even in winter, when the wildlife is a little quieter, the swamp felt alive and mysterious. We only spotted a couple of tiny alligators, but what we lacked in reptiles we made up for in furry encounters. Dozens of raccoons came out to greet us along the banks. Our guide called them swamp bears, and with their bold little faces and busy hands, the nickname fit perfectly.
Despite the chill, it was mesmerising to glide through the cypress groves, their roots rising like sculptures out of the water, moss draped from branch to branch. Honey Island Swamp is considered one of the most pristine river swamps in the United States, and being in the middle of that protected wilderness felt like stepping into another world.
Lunch at Jazzy Pete’s
After the tour, we headed to a nearby spot for lunch: Jazzy Pete’s Poboys. This place quickly joined Willa Jean on our short list of favourites from the trip. As the name suggests, their specialty is po’ boys, New Orleans’ classic sandwich, but with some modern twists. Victor and I decided to share two different ones:
- The Shrimp Boot: fried shrimp, fried green tomatoes, pickles, greens, and remoulade aioli.
- The BBQ Shrimp: Gulf shrimp peeled and cooked in a New Orleans-style barbecue sauce, with tomatoes and greens.
Both were excellent, but my personal favourite was the BBQ Shrimp. It was flavourful and saucy without being fried, which was a nice change of pace in a city where so many dishes, delicious though they are, come out of the fryer. Highly recommend!
Exploring the Quarter and Happy Hour at Fives
After Christmas brunch, we set out to properly explore the Old Quarter, following a self-guided walking tour. The French Quarter, also known as the Old Quarter, is the oldest neighbourhood in New Orleans, established in 1718 by French colonists. Its narrow streets, wrought-iron balconies, and colourful Creole townhouses reflect the city’s French and Spanish heritage. Over the centuries, the Quarter has been a hub for trade, music, and culture, and its historic buildings have witnessed everything from pirate tales to Mardi Gras celebrations.
Today, it is famous for its vibrant atmosphere, street performers, lively markets, and eclectic mix of shops, restaurants, and bars. Exploring the Old Quarter feels like stepping back in time, where every corner tells a story of the city’s unique past.
Just before 5pm, Victor and I slipped into a newly opened bar at the time called Fives for happy hour. We enjoyed a couple of delicious tap drinks along with fresh oysters, the perfect way to pause and refresh after an afternoon of exploring. Fives quickly became one of our favourite finds in New Orleans, so much so that we returned later in the trip.
Dinner at Blue Oak BBQ
That evening, we reunited with the rest of the family for dinner at Blue Oak BBQ, a local favourite. It was the end of the day, so some of the meats were already sold out. Not a big deal for me, since I do not eat meat anyway. Normally, BBQ is not my first choice, but my family was excited to go, and to my surprise, I ended up loving it.
They had a veggie option: Charred Brussels Sprout Caesar, with shaved and roasted Brussels sprouts, fried onions, pecorino, and a bright lemony Caesar dressing. It was incredible, smoky and tangy, and hearty enough to hold its own against all the brisket and pulled pork on the table. It was a very happy ending to a day that took us from wild swamps to cosy city streets.
Wrapping Up Part I
Our first few days in New Orleans gave us a perfect blend of family traditions, holiday sparkle, and Louisiana adventure. From Christmas pyjamas and King Cake to swamp raccoons and po’ boys, it already felt like one of the most memorable holidays we’ve ever had.
And yet, we still had more days to explore — more food to try, more neighbourhoods to wander, and more of Louisiana to see. Stay tuned for Part II of this New Orleans Christmas story.
Christmas in New Orleans was magical, and our adventure had only just begun.
No Comments