After spending our first days in Hanoi wandering the Old Quarter and eating our way through the city, it was time to explore a different side of the capital. Hanoi is not just a food lover’s paradise. It is also the political and historical heart of Vietnam, and understanding the country properly means engaging with its past.
This day was dedicated to monuments, museums, and places that tell the story of Vietnam’s struggles, resilience, and identity.
The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex
We began the morning at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum complex, a large, traffic-free area filled with botanical gardens, memorials, pagodas, and museums. The complex is a place of pilgrimage for many Vietnamese people, who travel from all over the country to pay their respects to “Uncle Ho”.
The mausoleum itself was constructed between 1973 and 1975 and was inspired by Lenin’s Mausoleum in Moscow, while incorporating distinctly Vietnamese architectural elements such as the sloping roof. Inside lies the embalmed body of Ho Chi Minh.
There are strict rules when visiting the mausoleum. Visitors must dress modestly, and personal belongings such as phones and bags are not allowed inside. Lockers are provided outside, and the atmosphere inside is quiet and solemn.
Seeing the reactions of Vietnamese visitors was one of the most striking parts of the experience. Ho Chi Minh is not only viewed as a revolutionary leader and politician, but also as a deeply respected national figure. Visiting the mausoleum felt important for understanding how central he remains to Vietnam’s national identity.
Presidential Palace, House No. 54, and the Stilt House
After leaving the mausoleum, we explored the surrounding buildings within the complex. We walked past the Presidential Palace, originally built as the Palace of the Governor General of Indochina in the early 20th century.
We then visited House No. 54, where Ho Chi Minh lived and worked between 1954 and 1958. The building is modest and functional, reflecting his reputation for living simply. Inside are three small rooms used as a living space, workspace, kitchen, and bedroom, along with gifts sent to him from around the world. His car collection is also displayed nearby.
Later, Ho Chi Minh moved to his stilt house, where he lived intermittently from 1958 until he died in 1969. Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House was designed in the style of traditional stilt houses found in Vietnam’s northern mountainous regions, which reminded him of his revolutionary years. Set among trees and gardens, it is a calm and reflective space.
The One Pillar Pagoda
Before leaving the complex, we stopped at the One Pillar Pagoda. Although the pagoda dates back nearly a thousand years, it was destroyed by French soldiers in 1954. After independence, Ho Chi Minh ordered it to be rebuilt according to its original design, and the reconstruction was completed in 1955.
The pagoda sits atop a single stone pillar rising from a lotus pond and symbolises purity and enlightenment. Despite its small size, it is one of Hanoi’s most iconic landmarks.
The Temple of Literature
Our next stop was the Temple of Literature, one of the best-preserved examples of traditional Vietnamese architecture. Founded in 1070 and dedicated to the philosopher Confucius, the temple later became the site of Vietnam’s first national university, Quốc Tử Giám, established in 1076.
The complex is divided into five courtyards, filled with gardens, ponds, and historic buildings. Today, it is especially popular with students, who come here to pray for academic success. Graduation photoshoots are common, adding a lively and modern layer to an ancient space.
Originally, the university admitted only students from noble families, but after 1442, talented students from across the country were allowed to attend. In 1484, stone stelae were erected to honour exceptional scholars, recording their names, birthplaces, and achievements. Many of these stelae still stand today, mounted on stone turtle statues.
The Imperial Citadel of Thang Long
From there, we continued to the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with more than a thousand years of continuous history. Built in the 11th century by the Lý Dynasty, the citadel became the political and military centre of Đại Việt.
Much of the original complex has been destroyed over the centuries. Royal palaces were dismantled during Nguyễn Dynasty reconstructions in the 19th century, and further damage occurred during periods of French and Japanese control. What remains includes the Main Gate, the Hanoi Flag Tower, the foundations of Kinh Thiên Palace, and the Rear Palace.
Excavations beginning in 2008 uncovered a vast collection of artefacts, including ceramics, tools, carvings, and architectural fragments. These discoveries reveal literal layers of history, from the Đại La period through multiple dynasties up to the modern era.
At the rear of the site are military command bunkers used by the People’s Army of Vietnam between 1954 and 1975. These rooms, complete with maps and communication equipment from the 1960s, were used during the Vietnam War by General Võ Nguyên Giáp.
Across the road at 18 Hoàng Diệu Street lies an active archaeological site, where overlapping dynasties can be seen layered one atop another. It was one of the most impressive historical sites we visited in Vietnam.
Lunch Break: Bún Đậu
After a full morning of sightseeing, we stopped for lunch at Bún đậu Gánh 1987. They specialise in bún đậu mắm tôm, a platter of rice vermicelli, tofu, and fermented shrimp paste, accompanied by various other ingredients. It was simple, filling, and very satisfying.
Hỏa Lò Prison and the Legacy of War
Our final major stop was the Hỏa Lò Prison, now a museum. The prison has a complex and emotionally heavy history, having been used during both French colonial rule and the Vietnam War.
During the colonial period, the French imprisoned and tortured Vietnamese political prisoners here, often under brutal conditions. The museum strongly emphasises this period, portraying Hỏa Lò as a symbol of colonial oppression and resistance.
Later, during the Vietnam War, the prison was used by the North Vietnamese Army to detain American pilots captured during bombing missions. The North Vietnamese claimed prisoners were treated in accordance with the Geneva Conventions, and in 1969 broadcast statements from American prisoners supporting this narrative.
What surprised me most was an exhibition dedicated to Vietnamese American friendship. It told stories of former American prisoners who later returned to visit Vietnam and reflected positively on their experiences. There were accounts of guards and prisoners celebrating together when the war ended. It was a powerful reminder that reconciliation is possible, even after immense suffering.
Saying Goodbye to Northern Vietnam
After one final egg coffee, we collected our bags and made our way to the airport. Our time in northern Vietnam had come to an end.
Hanoi was a fitting place to close this chapter of our journey. Through its monuments, museums, and memory-filled spaces, it offered context to everything we had seen and experienced across the north.
From here, we would travel on to Laos and Cambodia, before eventually returning to Vietnam to explore Ho Chi Minh City. But Hanoi, with all its history and complexity, will always stand out as the place that helped everything else make sense.
This was a powerful place to reflect on Vietnam’s past and present. Up next: Laos!
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