This is Part II of my blog series on our visit to Angkor, Cambodia, in February 2024. If you haven’t read Part I yet, you can check it out here.
For our second day exploring the Angkor Archaeological Park, we decided to hire a tuk-tuk driver instead of biking. We had come across a recommendation for a driver in a travel blog and reached out via Facebook. While the original driver wasn’t available, he kindly referred us to a friend, who ended up being wonderful.
Our driver was incredibly friendly and thoughtful. Not only did he keep us well-supplied with bottles of cold water throughout the day, but he also had a cooler full of wet cloths to help us refresh after each temple stop. This was a total luxury in the Cambodian heat.
Sunrise at Angkor Wat
We arranged for our driver to pick us up early so we could arrive at Angkor Wat for sunrise. Angkor Wat is not just the most famous temple in Cambodia; it’s the largest religious monument in the world and the crown jewel of the Angkor Archaeological Park. Originally built in the early 12th century by King Suryavarman II, it was designed as a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu before transitioning into a Buddhist temple in later centuries. With its iconic five towers symbolising Mount Meru (the sacred centre of the universe in Hindu and Buddhist cosmology), and its vast moat encircling the entire structure, Angkor Wat is a marvel of both engineering and spiritual intention.
The reason sunrise here is so revered is because, as the first light of day breaks over the temple’s lotus-shaped towers and reflects in the long rectangular pond in front of it, there’s an almost mythic quality to the scene. It’s quite spectacular.
Of course, to witness this magical moment, you need to go early. We left our hotel before 5am and arrived at the entrance to the park in darkness, our tuk-tuk headlights cutting through the mist. There were already people lining the edge of the reflection pond by the time we arrived, some with tripods already set up. Still, we managed to find a good spot and settled in to wait.
As the sky gradually shifted from indigo to soft pinks and oranges, the temple’s silhouette emerged. While there were hundreds of people around us, it felt strangely serene. For just a few minutes, all the noise and movement fell away. It was just us and this ancient masterpiece.
Exploring the Grand Circuit
Rather than heading straight into Angkor Wat after watching the sunrise, we made the choice to explore more of the Grand Circuit. This circuit is a longer loop through the Angkor Archaeological Park that features some of the quieter, lesser-visited temples. It turned out to be the perfect decision.
By starting early, we often had entire temples almost completely to ourselves. The atmosphere was peaceful, and the morning light gave everything a soft, golden glow. The Grand Circuit temples might not be as famous as Angkor Wat or Ta Prohm, but each had its own distinct character and charm. Read on for how we spent the morning uncovering these hidden gems.
Preah Khan
Our first stop on the Grand Circuit was Preah Khan, one of the larger temples in the Angkor complex. Built in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII, Preah Khan served as a Buddhist monastery, university, and even a temporary royal residence while Angkor Thom was under construction. In its heyday, it’s believed to have supported over 100,000 inhabitants.
Architecturally, Preah Khan is a marvel. Unlike many other temples in the Angkor complex, it is more horizontal than vertical, with a long, linear plan designed to reflect the Buddhist concept of balance and order. The temple’s layout is cross-shaped, with four cardinal gates and multiple concentric galleries, almost like a sacred compass embedded in stone. As you walk deeper into the site, you pass through a series of pillared halls, vaulted corridors, and narrow doorways, each one slightly more collapsed than the last.
Everywhere you look, there are carvings and bas-reliefs. You’ll find celestial dancers (apsaras), meditating Buddhas, and guardians flanking doorways.
What’s particularly fascinating is the evidence of Preah Khan’s dual religious identity: originally built as a Buddhist temple, later elements show signs of Hindu restoration, including lingas and carvings dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu. This layering gives the temple an almost palimpsest-like quality, as if it holds multiple belief systems within its structure.
Neak Pean
Next, we visited Neak Pean, a truly unique temple in the Angkor complex. Situated on a small island in the middle of an artificial reservoir, it’s reached by a long wooden boardwalk over still, reflective water. Originally designed for ritual healing, Neak Pean is deeply symbolic and visually serene.
Ta Som
From there, we continued to Ta Som, a smaller temple with one of the most memorable sights of the day: a massive tree growing straight through the eastern gate. The temple is compact and quiet, with a touch of mystery.
East Mebon
East Mebon offered a different kind of experience. Built on a raised platform, this temple is guarded by wonderfully preserved stone elephants at each corner. It’s made from reddish brick and laterite, and the open, tiered design gives it a regal presence. It once stood on an island in the middle of a now-dry reservoir, which made the setting feel even more ancient and evocative.
Pre Rup
Our last temple before lunch was Pre Rup, known for its reddish hue and pyramidal design. It’s often visited at sunset, but we found it beautiful in the late morning light. The view from the top is wide and striking, and the quiet gives it a solemn, almost sacred atmosphere. It’s believed to have been used for royal cremations, and the architecture reflects that gravity.
Angkor Wat at Midday
By midday, we finally made our way to Angkor Wat, which, to our great luck, was nearly empty. Most of the sunrise crowds had long since dispersed, and any non-sunrise, but still morning, visitors had already moved on.
Rather than entering through the heavily trafficked main causeway, we walked along the grassy perimeter toward the side entrance, which allowed us to experience the temple in a quieter, more intimate way. Along the way, we encountered a troop of monkeys, some playfully leaping through trees, others lounging in the shade. Several baby monkeys were clinging to their mothers, and we stood for a few moments just watching them.
Inside the temple, we were immediately drawn to the long galleries lined with intricately carved bas-reliefs, stretching for hundreds of meters. These stone walls are like an ancient storyboard, scenes unfolding with remarkable detail and energy.
One of the most famous panels, and one we lingered in front of for quite a while, is the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, a grand Hindu myth in which gods and demons work together to churn the ocean and produce the elixir of immortality. Other sections depict dramatic battle scenes, royal processions, and even glimpses of daily life in the Khmer Empire, such as soldiers marching, dancers mid-step, and celestial beings hovering above. There’s a rhythm to the carvings, and walking the length of them feels like reading a sacred text, etched line by line into the walls.
We spent time exploring the inner courtyards and galleries. Tucked inside are dozens of small carvings, many of them worn by centuries of pilgrims’ hands, including delicate apsaras dancing along pillars, floral motifs, and serene images of the Buddha. One carving that especially stayed with me was a group of four women, each wearing a different, intricate headdress.
Inside the central complex, we climbed the steep steps to the upper levels. The higher we climbed, the quieter it became. At the top, the views stretched far across the forested plains, with the towers rising up.
Our Last Evening
After our immersive visit to Angkor Wat, we returned to the hotel for a much-needed afternoon of rest and cooling off at the pool. The Cambodian heat was relentless, and it felt great to relax and recharge after two full days of temple exploration.
That evening, around 7pm, we ventured out once more to soak in the lively energy of Siem Reap at night. We decided to try Socheata Restaurant for dinner, eager to sample more authentic Cambodian cuisine in a cosy atmosphere. It was a great way to unwind and reflect on the incredible sights we’d taken in.
Unexpected Extra Time in Siem Reap
The following morning, we had originally planned an early 10am flight back to Ho Chi Minh City. But just as we were getting ready, I received a notification that our flight was severely delayed, rescheduled to 4pm. Well, that meant another unexpected day in Siem Reap!
Since we’d already seen everything we wanted at Angkor, we decided to spend the extra hours exploring the town instead. We started with breakfast at The Little Red Fox Espresso Cafe, where I had a refreshingly vibrant granola bowl topped with red and white dragon fruit, papaya, watermelon, and creamy yoghurt. The coffee was equally excellent, a perfect morning pick-me-up.
Feeling hungry again shortly after, we made a quick second stop at the Bayon Pastry School for a buttery croissant and an iced coffee — breakfast part two! The pastries were fresh and delicious, and the coffee hit the spot.
Afterwards, we returned to our hotel for a leisurely lunch, making sure we were ready for the taxi ride to the airport later that afternoon. It was a relaxed end to a whirlwind few days, full of history, culture, and surprises.
Two days, a few tuk-tuks, and dozens of temples later, Angkor had completely captured us.
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