This is a blog post on Panama City, but some context is needed for how we got here! By early 2023, both my partner and I were feeling the pressure. Work had been relentless, and the past few years of travel, while lovely, had all been with family. We hadn’t had a proper trip for just the two of us in what felt like forever. With only five days of annual leave to work with, we wanted to make it count. We were craving something exciting, something new. Most of all, we wanted nature. Wildlife. Something that would shake us out of our routine.
We started dreaming. Costa Rica was the first idea. Everyone talks about how beautiful it is, and it seemed to have everything we wanted. But as we dug into the logistics and prices, we quickly realised it was going to be far too expensive. Next, we considered Mexico. It’s been on our list for a long time. But the more we thought about it, the more we felt that Mexico deserved more time than we could give it. If we were going to do it, we wanted two weeks or more. So we put that one aside. Then Guatemala caught my attention. It looked like the perfect blend of nature and history. Think rainforests and Mayan ruins, kind of like Costa Rica and the Yucatán in one place. It felt like a great compromise. But when I checked the U.S. travel advisory, I saw it had a higher risk level. The part that stood out to me was about people posing as police and setting up roadblocks to kidnap travellers. That was a hard no for us.
We tossed around a few more ideas. Cuba. Even Kenya. But then I had a thought. Weren’t we forgetting somewhere obvious? Panama. It seemed so clear once we thought of it. Safe. Visitor-friendly. Known for its biodiversity. And because it’s a small and well-connected country, we could explore a modern city, hike in cloud forests, and relax on Caribbean beaches, all in one trip. It offered everything we were looking for.
Rainforest Adventure
We arrived in Panama City on a Saturday night around 9 p.m., Tired but excited. The next morning, after a quick hotel breakfast, we were picked up for our first adventure, a rainforest boat tour we had booked with Monkey Adventures. Honestly, we had no idea our trip would start with such a bang.
The tour took us to Gamboa, a small town inside Soberanía National Park. From there, we boarded a boat and set off on Gatun Lake, cruising right alongside the massive cargo ships that cross the Panama Canal. It was a surreal mix of industrial giants slowly gliding past, dense tropical forest crowded the shoreline, and exotic birds flying overhead.
We passed through patches of rainforest and eventually reached Monkey Island, where we saw white-faced capuchin monkeys jumping through the trees and a few howler monkeys just chilling in the branches. It felt like we were in a documentary. The guide was bilingual, super knowledgeable, and the whole thing was really smooth. The van they used for transport was new and had great air conditioning, and they even provided bottled water, which, after a humid morning in the tropics, was very welcome.
By the end of the tour, we were already convinced we’d made the right choice in coming to Panama. Wildlife on day one? Yes, please.
Cheesy Snacks and Skyscrapers
Once we were dropped back at our hotel after the boat tour, we headed out to explore Panama City a bit more on foot. Our first stop was Pa’Que Nelson, a casual spot where we grabbed a quick snack: queso empanadas. I’ve seen empanadas before, especially when visiting Barcelona, but these were different. Deep-fried, golden, and oozing with cheese, they were unlike any I’d had before. As it turns out, in Panama, this style is not just common, it’s preferred. They’re crispy on the outside, gooey inside, and dangerously addictive.
We continued walking through the city, admiring the skyline filled with gleaming glass skyscrapers. Panama City really does feel like a mix of Miami, Dubai, and Latin America all rolled into one. Sleek, modern, and humid.
Arepas and Local Flavour
For lunch, we stopped at Panadería Los Venezolanos, a simple but bustling bakery and café. Arepas are incredibly popular in Panama, not just an import from neighbouring Venezuela and Colombia, but part of the everyday food scene. You’ll find arepas being sold everywhere, from street carts to cafes like this one.
I ordered the guayanés and avocado arepa, which was a perfect balance of creamy and savoury. Guayanés is a soft white cheese made from cow’s milk, originally from Venezuela’s Guayana region. It has a delicate, milky flavour and a firm texture that makes it ideal for stuffing inside an arepa. Victor went for the asado negro arepa, a rich, dark, slow-cooked beef dish that was juicy, flavourful, and very satisfying.
Coffee Break
After lunch, we continued wandering through the city and eventually went to Café Unido for a coffee break. This was our first filter coffee of the trip, and it was excellent. Unido has a few locations throughout the city and is known for using high-quality Panamanian beans, many sourced from the Boquete region (which we were about to visit).
By late afternoon, it was time to head back to the hotel and get ready for the next leg of our journey. We flew from Panama City to the city of David, a short one-hour domestic flight that arrived around 5:15 p.m. From there, we had a one-hour transfer up into the mountains to reach Boquete, but more on that in the next post.
One Last Night
After our return from Boquete and Bocas del Toro, we had one final night in Panama City before flying home. For dinner that evening, we went to En La Fonda, a modern Panamanian restaurant that blends traditional flavours with creative presentation. The atmosphere was relaxed and stylish, and it felt like the perfect place to wind down after such an adventure-filled week.
Punta Culebra
The next morning, we had a few hours to explore before heading to the airport, so we visited the Punta Culebra Nature Center. Located on the Amador Causeway, it’s a small, open-air science and nature centre run by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute. It was a calm and refreshing way to spend the morning. We walked through shaded trails, spotting iguanas and sloths, and learning about the region’s marine and terrestrial ecosystems.
Lunch at Fonda Lo Que Hay
From there, we headed into Casco Viejo, Panama City’s historic old quarter. With its crumbling facades, colourful buildings, and lively plazas, it felt like a completely different world from the glass towers we’d explored earlier in the trip. For lunch, we went to Fonda Lo Que Hay, a creative, casual spot that’s become something of a foodie favourite in the city. The name loosely translates to “Whatever’s There Canteen,” and the menu changes regularly, but everything we tried was inventive and delicious.
We started with a tamarind, pineapple, and spices mocktail, which was tangy, refreshing, and packed with flavour. Then came a yuca tostada topped with tuna carpaccio, a perfect mix of crispy, fresh, and rich. The shrimp ceviche was served with lettuce, aioli, and plantain chips — bright and citrusy with just the right amount of crunch. The crispy rice with wood-smoked tomato sauce was smoky, savoury, and deeply comforting. We also shared a dish of clams with squash, garlic, and chilli crunch, which was rich and spicy with a nice hit of sweetness.
To end the meal, we split a flan that was silky, simple, and flawless. It was one of the best meals of the trip. We perceived it as a modern take on local ingredients in a neighbourhood full of old-world charm.
Casco Viejo
After lunch, we wandered a bit more through Casco Viejo, soaking in the colonial architecture, colourful facades, and sea breeze drifting in from the bay. We stopped at Sisu Coffee, a cosy, minimalist café with great vibes and even better coffee. It was the perfect place to cool off and recharge.
After our caffeine fix, we continued walking through the old city, exploring its quiet alleys, vibrant plazas, and small shops. It’s the kind of place where you can turn a corner and stumble into a hidden mural, a crumbling cathedral, or a rooftop bar just opening for the evening.
It was then time to head to the airport. As we looked out the taxi window one last time at the skyline, the canal, and the chaos of city life blending with jungle greenery, we both felt the same thing: Panama had completely exceeded our expectations.
Have you been to Panama City? What were your favourite spots — or what’s on your list for a future trip?
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