Wandering Through Marrakech: A City of Surprises and Discovery

Marrakech is a city that defies expectations. At once ancient and evolving, chaotic and serene, it invites you to lose yourself in its winding alleyways and find beauty in both the grand and the everyday. This trip came about thanks to my partner’s mom, who wanted to celebrate her retirement with a big adventure. Her first choice had been Japan, but with Japan slower to reopen after Covid, she set her sights on somewhere entirely different: Morocco!

We were all curious. A few years ago, the four of us had travelled together through Egypt, and we couldn’t help but wonder how Morocco’s landscapes, culture, and energy would compare. What we found in Marrakech was a city layered with history, bursting with creativity, and full of unexpected moments of calm and connection. From the vibrant chaos of the Médina to the elegance of riads and the flair of contemporary design, the city offered something new at every turn.

After a long journey, we arrived in Marrakech late in the afternoon, stepping into a city alive with colour, sound, and scent. It was a bit overwhelming at first—our transfer service couldn’t get close to our riad, so we had to trek through the narrow alleyways on foot, luggage in tow. But frustration melted away when we stepped through the riad’s front door. Our home for the trip was Riad et Spa Misria Les Orangers, a peaceful oasis in the heart of the chaotic yet charming Médina. Inside, we were welcomed by cool tiles, warm mint tea, and the serene hush that only a riad can offer.

Our First Evening

That evening, after a bit of rest, we set out to explore. Our first destination: the iconic Jemaa el-Fnaa, Marrakech’s main square. As the sun set, the space came alive—snake charmers, drummers, street food vendors, and the call to prayer all mingled into a sensory experience that felt surreal.

Dinner that night was at Le Trou Au Mur, a hidden gem tucked inside another riad. The setting was intimate, the service warm, and the food a beautiful blend of traditional Moroccan flavours with a modern twist. One interesting aspect of their menu is that it’s divided into two sections: traditional Moroccan cuisine and an “international” side. We chose entirely from the Moroccan offerings, but the international options could make it a great choice for anyone travelling with a more hesitant eater. We especially enjoyed the salads—you can order an assortment of seven, which was a fantastic way to sample a variety of Moroccan flavours and textures. For our mains, Victor and I shared two dishes: the fish of the day, stuffed with vermicelli, preserved lemons, and olives; and chermoula sardines, filled with finely chopped, lightly spiced seasonal vegetables. Both were full of flavour and delicious.

Exploring the Old City

Our second day began with a guided walking tour through where we were staying, Marrakech’s historic Médina. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Médina is a dense, bustling maze of alleyways, courtyards, and markets, originally founded in the 11th century. Navigating it alone can be overwhelming, so having a guide helped us uncover both its hidden corners and its cultural significance.

We started in the souks, the city’s famous open-air markets. These vibrant marketplaces are arranged by specialty, creating a kind of chaotic order: Souk Haddadine for handcrafted lamps and metalwork, Souk Semmarine for textiles and leather goods, and Souk El Attarine for spices and perfumes. There are, of course, tons of other, smaller souks specialising in anything you can think of. The narrow passages are alive with colour, the calls of vendors, and the scent of saffron, amber, and mint. Bargaining is expected here, and even if you’re not shopping, simply walking through is an experience in itself.

The Almoravids

From the souks, we moved on to some of Marrakech’s most iconic landmarks. To better appreciate these sites, it’s helpful to briefly explore the major dynasties and caliphates that shaped Morocco’s early Islamic history. While Morocco’s past stretches back thousands of years, much of its urban and architectural character today was formed after the arrival of Islam.

The Muslim conquest of the Maghreb, which began in the mid-7th century, was completed in 709 under the Umayyad Caliphate, an Arab dynasty that introduced Islam and the Arabic language to the region. From the 11th century onward, however, a series of powerful Berber Muslim dynasties rose to prominence, local to North Africa but deeply integrated into the broader Islamic world.

The first of these was the Almoravid dynasty, which not only consolidated power in Morocco but expanded into al-Andalus (Muslim Iberia), briefly halting the Christian Reconquista. The Almoravid emir Yusuf ibn Tashfin arrived in Marrakech around 1071 and established it as a political and religious centre. He commissioned the construction of a central congregational mosque, the Ben Youssef Mosque, although none of the original structure has survived.

His son and successor, Ali ibn Yusuf—often referred to in French as “Ben Youssef”—rebuilt the mosque as a grand new structure known as the Masjid al-Siqaya, or “Mosque of the Fountain,” named for the large marble fountain in its courtyard. However, when the rival Almohad dynasty defeated the Almoravids and captured Marrakech in 1147, the Almohad caliph Abd al-Mu’min denounced the mosque’s orientation as incorrect and had it either demolished or abandoned.

One of the few remnants of Almoravid architecture that still survives today is the Almoravid Qubba, located near the Marrakech Museum and about 40 meters south of the current Ben Youssef Mosque. This modest structure, with its finely carved dome and intricate stucco work, is the only standing example of Almoravid architectural style in the city—and a rare window into Marrakech’s early Islamic era.

The Almohads

In response to the Ben Youssef Mosque, the Almohads chose to build an entirely new congregational mosque: the Koutoubia Mosque. It was founded in 1147 by Caliph Abd al-Mu’min, immediately after the Almohads captured Marrakech from the Almoravids. Today, the mosque is not only a spiritual centre but also one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks. Its 77-meter-tall minaret towers above the surrounding rooftops serves as a helpful point of orientation while navigating the maze-like streets of the Médina.

Nearby, we passed by another Almohad landmark: Bab Agnaou, one of the original gates to the Medina. Its weathered stone arch still stands as a powerful symbol of the city’s long and layered history. The gate was built during the reign of the Almohad caliph Abu Yusuf Ya’qub al-Mansur and completed around 1190.

In 1244, after years of serving under them, the Marinids overthrew the Almohad dynasty. At the height of their power in the mid-14th century, the Marinids controlled much of the Maghreb, including large parts of what is now Algeria and Tunisia. By the early 15th century, a related ruling house—the Wattasids—began to compete for control. Though they initially acted as regents or viziers, the Wattasids effectively ruled from 1420 to 1459. The Marinid dynasty came to an end in 1465, when the last sultan, Abd al-Haqq II, was overthrown and killed during a revolt in Fez. This marked the beginning of direct Wattasid rule over most of Morocco.

The Saadis

While the Wattasids held control over northern Morocco, the south remained divided among several independent principalities. One of these powers, the Saadi dynasty, gradually expanded its influence and had unified the south by 1511. After defeating the Wattasids at the Battle of Tadla in 1554, the Saadians established full control over the country.

The Saadians represent a significant chapter in Morocco’s history. As the first Arab Sharifian dynasty to rule since the Idrisids, they claimed descent from the Prophet Muhammad and brought a renewed sense of religious legitimacy to the throne. They also successfully resisted Ottoman expansion into Morocco, making it the only part of North Africa to remain outside Ottoman control, while simultaneously adopting Ottoman military innovations, including the use of gunpowder weapons, to modernise their army. The Saadians were also significant patrons of art and architecture and were responsible for many landmarks, such as the Kasbah Mosque.

We saw the legacy of this powerful dynasty firsthand during our visit to the Saadian Tombs, hidden behind high walls and only rediscovered in 1917. Within these serene grounds lie the ornate mausoleums of Saadian rulers, resting beneath intricately carved cedar ceilings and beautifully patterned tilework. The artistry and quiet reverence of the site made it one of the most memorable stops of our trip.

We made our way to the Madrasa Ben Youssef, once the largest Islamic college in North Africa. Its central courtyard, framed by serene pools and carved stucco walls, offered a quiet contrast to the intensity of the souks. It was first established by the Saadi dynasty.

The madrasa is next to the Ben Youssef Mosque, which I mentioned above. The mosque was reportedly rebuilt or refurbished by the Saadi sultan Abdallah al-Ghalib. However, the mosque eventually fell into ruin.

The Alawis

I’ve already mentioned the Alawis above, but as you might’ve guessed, they ruled Morocco after the Saadis. The family’s rise to power took place in the context of early-to-mid-17th-century Morocco, when the power of the Saadian sultans of Marrakesh was in serious decline and multiple regional factions fought for control of the country. The Alawis ruled from the 1660s to the 1912 Treaty of Fes that marked the start of the French protectorate.

The Ben Youssef Mosque was completely rebuilt in the early 19th century by the Alawi sultan Suleiman (ruled 1792–1822), with a different alignment and hardly any trace left of its original Amoravid or Almohad design.

Our next stop was the Bahia Palace, a 19th-century palace built by the Alawis to showcase the finest Moroccan craftsmanship. Walking through its grand rooms and sunlit courtyards, it was easy to get lost in the details—painted cedar ceilings, stained glass, and zellige tilework that felt almost too perfect to be real.

For lunch, we headed to Atay Cafe, a charming rooftop spot with panoramic views over the Médina. By this point in the day, the heat was intense, so we were especially grateful that the rooftop was shaded. We shared a selection of dishes, including the cheese briouats—crispy pastry parcels stuffed with cheese and spinach—the lentil salad, and a vegetarian pastilla. A pastilla, popular in Maghrebi cuisine, is a savoury pie made with warqa dough, a delicate pastry similar to filo. It was a great way to sample a variety of flavours while enjoying a bit of a break from the busy streets below.

By late afternoon, the heat had slowed our pace, and we returned to the riad for some well-earned rest. After a full day immersed in the rich tapestry of old Marrakech, it was time to unwind before another delicious dinner.

A Contemporary Take on Marrakech

On our final day, we explored a different side of the city—one that felt more modern, spacious, and quiet compared to the bustling energy of the Médina. We began the morning at the famous Majorelle Garden, a lush, beautifully designed oasis created by French painter Jacques Majorelle and later restored by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé. The exotic plants and gently trickling fountains made for a peaceful, almost surreal experience. It’s easy to see why this garden continues to inspire artists and designers from around the world.

As we wandered deeper into the garden, the bold cobalt blue architecture—now famously known as Majorelle Blue—began to dominate the landscape. The vivid colour contrasts strikingly with the greenery and earthy terracotta tones, creating a dreamlike quality that feels both timeless and modern. The buildings, once Majorelle’s studio spaces, now house museum exhibits and small galleries, but it’s the interplay of colour, shadow, and shape that truly captures your attention.

Just next door, we visited the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, an essential stop for anyone interested in fashion, art, or the cultural fabric of Marrakech. The museum is dedicated to the legendary French designer and his lifelong love affair with Morocco, a country that profoundly shaped his artistic vision.

The building itself is a work of art: modern, minimalist, and beautifully integrated into its surroundings. Designed by the French architectural firm Studio KO, the structure features terracotta brickwork and curved lines that echo the texture and rhythm of woven fabric—an elegant nod to the world of couture.

Inside, the exhibits offer a fascinating glimpse into Yves Saint Laurent’s creative world. From his iconic silhouettes and bold use of colour to the intricate embroidery and rich textures inspired by traditional Moroccan craftsmanship, it’s clear how deeply the country influenced his work. Morocco was more than just a destination for Saint Laurent; it was a sanctuary. He first visited Marrakech in 1966 and returned frequently, eventually purchasing the Jardin Majorelle with his partner, Pierre Bergé. The city’s vibrant colours, light, and atmosphere became recurring motifs in his designs and a source of endless inspiration.

After exploring the exhibits, we took a moment to unwind at the museum café, enjoying a quick coffee boost in its serene courtyard setting. I even squeezed in a delightful set of petit fours.

For lunch, we tried Plus61, a contemporary spot with fresh, Mediterranean-inspired dishes—an unexpected but welcome contrast to the rich tagines and couscous of previous meals. The menu is seasonal and ever-changing, focusing on locally sourced ingredients and vibrant flavours. While each dish was rooted in Moroccan inspiration, they were reimagined with a modern, global twist—think delicate presentations, inventive pairings, and clean, balanced tastes. Every bite was a reminder of how tradition and innovation can coexist beautifully on the plate.

The interior was just as thoughtfully curated as the food: airy and minimalist, with natural wood accents, soft neutral tones, and an abundance of light streaming in through wide windows. It felt relaxed yet refined—the kind of place where you could linger over lunch without ever feeling rushed.

We spent the afternoon relaxing at the riad, enjoying the courtyard breeze and reflecting on all we had seen. For our final dinner, we dined at L’mida, a stylish rooftop restaurant where traditional Moroccan cuisine meets modern flair. It was an ideal way to wrap up our stay in Marrakech.

The next morning, we packed our bags, said a heartfelt goodbye to our riad, and stepped back out into the narrow lanes of the Médina one last time. Marrakech had been a whirlwind of colour, history, and sensory wonder, but our adventure wasn’t over yet. We were headed into the desert, ready for a completely different pace and landscape.

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Have you been to Marrakech? What did you think of this chaotic, but beautiful, city?