We normally love to travel during Victor’s birthday month, September. The weather is often still warm, and the crowds tend to thin out in many of Europe’s most popular destinations. In 2022, that instinct led us to Belgium.
We took the Eurostar on Thursday evening after work, arriving late enough that we went straight to bed. But by Friday morning, well rested and wrapped in layers, we were ready to explore Bruges.
Day One: A First Encounter with Bruges
Bruges greeted us with crisp air and grey skies. At 14°C, it felt colder than expected, but it was the perfect excuse to seek out a cosy breakfast. We started the day at Kottee Kaffee, a warm, welcoming café with an excellent brunch menu. We ordered “Le Brunch” and were rewarded with sourdough bread, farm butter, artisanal jams, local charcuterie and cheeses, yoghurt with granola, a small sweet bite, and fresh orange juice alongside our coffee. A generous, comforting way to begin the day.
From there, we walked to the Markt, the historic heart of Bruges. The square has functioned as a marketplace since 958 and remains one of the city’s most striking spaces. Looming above it is the 13th-century Belfry, made instantly recognisable for many by the film In Bruges. The tower houses a carillon of 48 bells, which still chime across the city.
A short walk away is the Burg, another important square, home to several beautiful civic and religious buildings. The most notable is the Basilica of the Holy Blood, which houses a relic believed to contain the blood of Christ, brought to Bruges by Thierry of Alsace after the Crusades. The contrast between the two chapels is striking: the lower Romanesque chapel is simple and restrained, while the upper Gothic chapel is richly decorated, much of it in late-19th-century neo-Gothic style.
No visit to Bruges would be complete without a waffle stop. Growing up, I associated waffles with weekend breakfasts at home—crispy, homemade, and drenched in syrup. But waffles actually made their way to the United States via Belgian immigrants and world fairs.
Belgium has many types of waffles, but the two most famous are Brussels and Liège. Brussels waffles are light, crisp, and rectangular, while Liège waffles are denser, richer, and studded with pearl sugar that caramelises as they cook. We stopped at Chez Albert and tried a Liège waffle topped with strawberries. Delicious, though undeniably sweet.
From sugar to scenery, we then wandered along Bruges’ canals. Built in the early 12th century, they once connected the city directly to the North Sea, allowing Bruges to flourish as a major medieval trading hub. Wool, grain, and spices flowed through the city, and that wealth is still visible today. It’s easy to see why Bruges is often called the “Venice of the North.”
Our afternoon took a more artistic turn at the Groeninge Museum, which houses six centuries of Flemish and Belgian art. Two works stood out in particular: The Madonna with Canon van der Paele by Jan van Eyck, and The Last Judgement by Hieronymus Bosch.
We then visited the Church of Our Lady, known for its soaring Gothic tower, the tallest structure in the city. Inside, the highlight is Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child, carved around 1504. It was the first sculpture by Michelangelo to leave Italy during his lifetime, purchased by wealthy Bruges cloth merchants and installed here centuries ago.
After a full day of walking and learning, we treated ourselves to dinner at Assiette Blanche, a modern French bistro listed in the Michelin Guide. The food focused on local produce, with thoughtful, contemporary takes on classic dishes—elegant but unfussy.
The food was made with local produce, and I appreciated the modern upgrade of some classical dishes.
Day Two: Beyond the Postcard Views
On our second day, we headed south to explore some of Bruges’ quieter corners. We first stopped at the Sint-Janshospitaal, one of the oldest preserved hospital buildings in Europe, dating back to the 12th century. Although we didn’t go inside, the complex is famously associated with works by Hans Memling.
Nearby, we visited Godshuis Spanoghe, one of Bruges’ many almshouses. These charitable dwellings were often established by guilds or wealthy benefactors to house elderly residents or women seeking a religious life outside formal orders. Founded in 1680 by Francesca Spanoghe, this small complex is one of around 46 surviving godshuizen in Bruges.
From there, we continued to the Begijnhof Ten Wijngaerde, the city’s only preserved beguinage. Beguines were religious women who lived communally without taking formal vows. Although no beguines have lived here since 1927, the site remains active and today functions as a Benedictine convent. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998, the beguinage’s whitewashed houses and green courtyard offer a rare sense of calm just outside the city centre.
We then walked onward to the Minnewater, often called the Lake of Love. Framed by trees and historic buildings, it’s a peaceful spot where the city seems to slow down, and we spent some time circling the water before continuing on our way.
From there, we set out toward Kruisvest, an area known for its historic windmills. The walk itself was part of the experience, taking us along canals and green paths beyond the busiest parts of the city. Windmills have been part of Bruges’ landscape since the late 13th century, when the outer city walls were constructed. Today, only four remain—the Bonne Chiere Molen, Sint-Janshuismolen, Nieuwe Papegaai, and Koeleweimolen—standing along the park that traces the old fortifications. We lingered here for quite a while, enjoying the open space, the views along the canal, and the sense of history embedded in these working remnants of the past.
Once we reached Kruispoort, one of the last city gates in existence, we headed back toward the city for lunch at Den Gouden Karpel, a traditional Belgian fish restaurant. We ordered moules-frites, widely considered the national dish of Belgium. The pairing has practical origins. Mussels were plentiful and inexpensive along the North Sea coast, while potatoes grew easily inland. Together, they formed a filling, affordable meal that eventually became a defining part of Belgian food culture. Today, moules-frites appears on menus throughout the country, especially in late summer and early autumn, when mussels are at their best. Simple and deeply satisfying, it was exactly what we wanted after a long morning of walking.
Our final stop before heading to Brussels was the Gruuthusemuseum, housed in the former residence of Louis de Gruuthuse. The museum’s collection spans the 15th to 19th centuries and includes tapestries, stained glass, lace, manuscripts, and porcelain.
One particular painting that caught my eye was The Seven Wonders of Bruges by Pieter I Claeissens. The title comes from the inscription on the painting itself, in Latin, Septem admirationes civitatis Brugensis. The work features seven buildings, shown from left to right: the Waterhuis (Water House), the Church of Our Lady, identifiable by the tower on the left, the Poortersloge (Burghers’ Lodge), the Waterhalle, the long, low building in the foreground, the House of the Seven Towers rising behind it, the Oosterlingenhuis, and finally the Belfry, the tower on the right.
The museum is housed within the medieval Gruuthuse, once the home of Louis de Gruuthuse. It is a spectacular building, with lavishly decorated fireplaces, ceilings, and balustrades. I was especially taken by the small terrace overlooking the internal courtyard, a quiet, almost hidden space that felt removed from the rest of the city.
Bruges may be small, but it is remarkably dense with history, art, and atmosphere. Staying for two days allowed us to move beyond the postcard views and experience the city at a slower pace. It is a place that rewards wandering, lingering, and looking closely.
What do you think of charming, romantic Bruges? Stay tuned for my post on Brussels for a completely different experience of Belgium.
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