We woke early in Selçuk, knowing this would be one of the most anticipated days of the trip. Breakfast at Celsus Boutique Hotel wasn’t served until 8:00am, the same time the site opened, so the night before, we picked up granola, yoghurt, and fruit. It was a simple breakfast, eaten quietly in our room, but it meant we could leave exactly when we wanted to.
We arrived just before opening and were able to enter right away. There is something special about being among the first people inside Ephesus. The air is still cool, the light softer, and for a brief moment, the city feels almost entirely your own.
Ephesus was once one of the most important cities of the Roman Empire, serving as the capital of Roman Asia. Its location, near what was once the estuary of the Kaystros River, made it a major port city. Over centuries, the coastline gradually shifted westward, slowly pulling the sea away from the city and reshaping its destiny.
Ephesus has two main entrances, the Upper Gate (Magnesia Gate) and the Lower Gate near the theatre and former harbour. We entered through the lower gate without really planning it, and it turned out to be one of the best decisions of the day. From here, we passed the theatre and the commercial agora, heading straight toward the heart of the city. Most tour groups enter from the upper gate, so this section was almost empty when we arrived. For that first hour, it felt like we had Ephesus to ourselves.
The Library
Our first stop was the Library of Celsus, reached just after passing through the Gate of Mazeus and Mithridates, built by two former slaves in honour of Emperor Augustus.
And somehow, we were completely alone. Without the crowds, the façade becomes something entirely different. The symmetry, the proportions, and the intricate detailing of the columns and statues all come into focus.
The library once held around 12,000 scrolls and also served as a monumental tomb. It reflects both the intellectual life and the ambition of the city.
Up Curetes Street
From the Library of Celsus, we began walking uphill along Curetes Street, known in antiquity as the Embolos, the main processional road connecting the lower and upper city. This was not just a street, but a carefully designed urban spine. Lined with statues, monuments, and public buildings, it would have been one of the most impressive approaches in the city, a space where civic pride, imperial power, and daily life all intersected. As we moved further along, the details of daily life began to emerge.
The public latrines, lined with marble seating, offered one of the most unexpectedly human glimpses into the city. These communal spaces were designed as much for conversation as for practicality, a reminder that even in a grand imperial setting, everyday life was shared and social.
Nearby, sections of mosaic-paved sidewalks still survive, running parallel to the main street. These pedestrian paths, often overlooked, reveal just how organised and thoughtfully planned the city was. Continuing upward, the architecture became more refined.
The Temple of Hadrian stood out immediately, its elegant façade and detailed carvings conveying the decorative sophistication of Ephesian architecture at its peak. Built in the 2nd century AD, it commemorated Emperor Hadrian’s visit to the city.
Not far from it, the Trajan Fountain once combined function with spectacle, a monumental fountain dedicated to the emperor, reinforcing the connection between water, power, and civic generosity.
As we continued, we reached the Hercules Gate, marked by reliefs of the hero. This gate physically and symbolically divided the city, creating a transition from the lower, more commercial areas to the upper sections associated with administration and elite life.
Beyond this point, the space opened up.
The Upper City
We entered Domitian Square, where the remains of the Temple of Domitian once dominated the area, one of the earliest temples dedicated to a Roman emperor, reflecting the importance of imperial cult worship in Ephesus.
Nearby, the State Agora spread out as a vast political and administrative centre, while the Odeon of Ephesus, smaller and more enclosed, functioned as both a concert hall and a meeting place for civic discussions.
Close by, the Prytaneion marked the symbolic heart of the city, where the sacred fire of Hestia was kept burning, reinforcing the continuity and identity of the community.
Before descending again, we made our way into the Terrace Houses of Ephesus, which revealed a completely different side of the city.
Daily Life in Stone
These Terrace Houses belonged to the elite of Ephesus, and their design reflects both wealth and sophistication. Multi-storey residences were arranged around interior courtyards, with advanced systems for heating, water, and drainage.
What makes them exceptional is their preservation. Frescoes still decorate the walls, and intricate mosaics cover the floors, offering a rare glimpse into the aesthetics of Roman domestic life.
One of the most striking mosaics depicted Dionysus, the god of wine and celebration. His presence in the home reflects not only religious belief, but also the cultural values of leisure, pleasure, and social life that defined elite Roman society.
Standing there, it becomes easier to imagine these spaces as they once were, filled with colour, conversation, and everyday activity.
Back to the Lower City
Leaving the Terrace Houses of Ephesus, we stepped back out into the open and began making our way down toward the lower city. After the enclosed, detailed world of the houses, with their mosaics, frescoes, and carefully arranged interiors, the space opened up once again into something much larger and more monumental.
We retraced part of our path along Curetes Street, this time moving downhill, before reaching the Commercial Agora, a vast open square that once formed the economic heart of Ephesus. This was where goods arrived, were traded, and moved through the city, connecting it to the wider Mediterranean world.
Beyond it, the Great Theatre of Ephesus rises dramatically at the edge of the city. Although parts of it were closed for renovations during our visit, its scale was undeniable. Originally built in the 4th century BC and later expanded under Roman rule, it could hold up to 24,000 spectators. It was not just a place for performances, but a venue for political gatherings and public events, reflecting the central role of theatre in ancient urban life.
From here, the Harbour Road stretches out toward what was once the sea. In antiquity, this would have been the grand entrance to the city, connecting the port directly to its civic centre.
Today, the sea is far removed, pushed back over centuries by sediment from the Kaystros River, but the road’s alignment still tells the story of Ephesus as a once-thriving maritime hub. Standing there, at the edge of the city, it felt like a natural conclusion.
A City of Many Beliefs
Ephesus is a place where cultures and religions overlap. At its heart was the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, once one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and a major pilgrimage site that drew visitors from across the Mediterranean. If there was a figure that defined this day, it was Artemis. Not just the huntress of Greek mythology, but a distinctly local, Anatolian goddess deeply tied to the identity of Ephesus itself.
Over time, the city became an important centre of early Christianity, shaping religious history in ways that extended far beyond its borders. These layers do not replace one another; they build upon each other, creating a landscape where belief is continuously reinterpreted.
Today, Ephesus is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, valued as an outstanding example of a Roman port city shaped by both human ambition and environmental change.
From Ruins to Ritual: Kahvaltı in Kirazlı
After leaving Ephesus, we drove to Kirazlı for lunch, and we decided on breakfast. Turkish breakfast, or kahvaltı, literally means “before coffee,” and is less a meal than a ritual. At Al Yazmalı Köy Sofrası, we had a serpme kahvaltı, a generous spread of cheeses, olives, jams, vegetables, breads, and egg dishes.
It was the perfect contrast to the morning at Ephesus, grounded, local, and slow.
Şirince: Between Past and Present
From Kirazlı, we continued to Şirince, a hillside village shaped by both Greek and Turkish heritage.
At first, it felt busy, lined with souvenir shops, fruit wine tastings, and cafés offering Turkish coffee prepared in hot sand. But as we wandered further from the main streets, the atmosphere shifted. We eventually found a quiet café perched higher up, overlooking the town and surrounding hills.
From there, everything slowed down again.
A Slower Evening
Back in Selçuk, I wasn’t feeling my best that evening. After such a full day, my stomach had other ideas, and for a while it seemed like the night might end quietly in the hotel.
After a couple of hours of rest, I felt well enough to head out, and we made our way to Eski Ev Restaurant. It was a gentle end to the day, a simple meal, nothing too heavy, and exactly what I needed.
Artemis, Reimagined
We began at the Ephesus Archaeological Museum, which offered a completely different perspective on everything we had seen the day before. If Ephesus shows you the city, the museum shows you its identity.
Inside are the famous statues of Artemis, often referred to as the Beautiful Artemis and the Great Artemis. These are not the Artemis most people imagine. They are distinctly Ephesian, shaped by earlier Anatolian traditions, with a form that reflects fertility, abundance, and protection.
Seeing them here, after walking through the ruins of the city that once worshipped her, brought everything together. The architecture, the scale, the devotion, they all pointed back to her.
From Artemis to St. John
From the museum, we made our way up Ayasuluk Hill to the Basilica of St. John. Built in the 6th century under Emperor Justinian, the basilica is believed to stand over the burial site of St. John the Apostle. Today, its ruins stretch across the hilltop, with scattered columns and walls hinting at what was once a vast and important pilgrimage site.
Standing there, it is hard not to think about the shift that took place here. A city once defined by the worship of Artemis gradually became a centre of early Christianity. The layers do not replace one another; they overlap, each leaving its mark on the same landscape.
Nearby, the İsa Bey Mosque adds yet another chapter. Built in the 14th century, it represents the arrival of Islamic architecture and culture in the region, completing a sequence that spans thousands of years.
A Lokantası and the Living City
For lunch, we stopped at Ayasuluk Şehir Lokantası, a traditional lokantası, the kind of place where food is displayed and chosen dish by dish. A lokantası is one of the simplest and most authentic ways to eat in Turkey. The food is home-style, prepared in advance, and rooted in everyday cooking rather than presentation.
We shared a mix of dishes, vegetables cooked in olive oil, aubergine, beans, bulgur, and more, alongside ayran and a sweet dessert to finish. After the scale and grandeur of Ephesus, this felt grounding, a reminder that life here continues in quieter, more familiar ways.
After lunch, we wandered through the nearby market, where stalls overflowed with produce, artichokes, strawberries, cheeses, and olives. It was vibrant, local, and full of life.
The Temple That Isn’t There
Before leaving, we made one final stop at the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus. Once one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, it was among the largest temples ever built, drawing pilgrims from across the Mediterranean.
Today, almost nothing remains. A single column rises from the ground, surrounded by open land and quiet. Much of the original stone was reused over time, including in the nearby Basilica of St. John, a physical reminder of how each era reshapes what came before.
And yet, standing there, it does not feel insignificant. After seeing the statues in the museum, walking through the city, and tracing the layers of belief that followed, this absence carries its own weight. The temple may be gone, but its influence is still everywhere, in the city, in its history, and in the stories that remain.
Onward
After checking out, we left Selçuk behind and made our way toward Urla. Ephesus is often described as one of the best-preserved ancient cities in the world, but what stayed with me most was not just how much remains, but how much you can still piece together.
Have you visited Ephesus, or is it still on your list?
No Comments