After two days exploring Higashiyama (both the Northern and Southern areas), we dedicated our next day in Kyoto to the western hills. Arashiyama and the Sagano area offer a very different side of the city, one shaped by mountains, rivers, and quiet temple paths. It is an area best explored early, before the crowds arrive, so we set out soon after breakfast, ready for a full day of walking and discovery.
Historically, Arashiyama has long been associated with leisure and retreat. During the Heian period, Kyoto’s aristocracy would travel west of the city to enjoy poetry gatherings, seasonal views, and riverside excursions. Even today, the area retains that sense of escape. Mountains rise close to the water, temples are woven into forests rather than streets, and the pace feels noticeably slower than in central Kyoto.
Sagano, just beyond Arashiyama, deepens this atmosphere. Once a rural village on the edge of the capital, it remains dotted with preserved streets, small temples, and winding paths that feel far removed from modern city life. Exploring this part of Kyoto felt less like sightseeing and more like moving through a landscape shaped by time, nature, and quiet routines.
Arashiyama Bamboo Forest
We left the hotel after breakfast and walked to Tambaguchi Station, where we caught the JR San-In Line to Saga-Arashiyama Station. From there, it was a short walk to our first stop of the day, the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest.
Arriving early made all the difference. The tall bamboo stalks rose high above us, swaying gently and filtering the morning light into soft shades of green. The path felt calm and almost meditative, with only the sound of footsteps and bamboo rustling in the breeze. Although it is one of Kyoto’s most photographed places, at this hour, it felt peaceful and otherworldly.
Tenryu-ji Temple
From the northern end of the bamboo grove, we entered Tenryu-ji Temple, one of Kyoto’s most important Zen temples and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded in 1339 by the shogun Ashikaga Takauji as a gesture of reconciliation after years of political conflict, the temple was intended to calm the spirit of Emperor Go-Daigo. This sense of balance and harmony is reflected throughout the temple grounds, particularly in its celebrated garden, which has remained largely unchanged for centuries.
Tenryu-ji is especially known for its pond garden, designed to mirror the surrounding mountains. Stones, water, and carefully placed trees frame the landscape beyond, creating a seamless connection between the cultivated space and the natural world. Unlike many gardens that are meant to be viewed from a single spot, this one unfolds gradually as you move through it. Each step reveals a slightly different perspective, encouraging a slower pace and quiet observation.
Walking through the temple grounds felt calm and grounding, a gentle transition from the bamboo forest into the wider Arashiyama area. Sitting quietly along the veranda, it was easy to forget where the garden ended and the hills began. The experience captured the essence of Zen philosophy, where simplicity, balance, and closeness to nature invite reflection rather than spectacle.
Ōkōchi Sansō and the River
Next, we visited Ōkōchi Sansō, the former villa of the celebrated Japanese actor Ōkōchi Denjirō, who was a major star of jidaigeki period films in the early 20th century. At the height of his career, he chose this hillside location overlooking Kyoto to build a private retreat where he could escape the city and immerse himself in nature. The estate reflects his artistic sensibility, blending refined garden design with carefully framed views of the surrounding landscape.
Upon entering the grounds, we were guided first to the teahouse included with the admission ticket. We were served a warm drink and a small traditional sweet, which we enjoyed while taking in the view across the trees toward the city below. Sitting quietly, surrounded by greenery and distant rooftops, it felt like an intentional pause, a moment set aside to slow down before beginning the walk through the estate.
From the teahouse, we followed the circular path that winds gently through the gardens. The route unfolded gradually, leading us through shaded woodland areas, moss-covered stone steps, and carefully arranged plantings that shifted with the season. Autumn colours appeared in soft bursts, with maple leaves glowing against darker evergreens. Each turn revealed a new composition, sometimes opening onto wide views, other times narrowing into more intimate garden spaces.
The design encouraged movement at an unhurried pace. Benches and open viewpoints invited pauses, while the changing textures of gravel, stone, and foliage made the walk feel tactile and immersive. Rather than offering a single dramatic moment, the beauty of Ōkōchi Sansō lay in its sequence, a series of quiet scenes experienced one after another. Walking through the estate felt contemplative, reinforcing the sense that it was created as a personal refuge rather than a formal showpiece.
Along the Katsura River
Leaving Ōkōchi Sansō, we walked through Arashiyama Park and made our way down toward the river. The Katsura River flowed gently beside us, framed by low mountains and crossed by traditional wooden bridges. The open space and moving water felt refreshing after the enclosed garden paths, offering a different rhythm to the day.
The riverside walk was relaxed and scenic, with plenty of space to slow down and take in the surroundings. Boats drifted along the water, and the sound of the river blended softly with distant voices and footsteps. It was a simple but grounding moment, a chance to pause between temple visits and let the landscape guide us forward.
Northern Sagano and Otagi Nenbutsuji
After returning to Saga-Arashiyama Station, we took a short taxi ride north to Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple, one of the most charming and unusual temples in the area. Originally founded in the 8th century and later relocated to its current site, the temple is best known for the hundreds of rakan stone statues that fill its grounds. These figures represent the disciples of the Buddha, traditionally depicted as enlightened followers who have attained spiritual awakening.
What makes Otagi Nenbutsuji especially distinctive is that many of the statues were carved in the late 20th century by students of the temple’s head priest, giving each figure a uniquely human expression. Some appear joyful, others thoughtful, amused, or quietly solemn. Together, they create a sense of personality and warmth that is rarely found in temple sculpture. Wandering among the statues felt intimate and quietly joyful, far removed from the crowds of central Arashiyama. Rather than inspiring awe through scale or grandeur, the temple invited connection, offering a gentle and approachable expression of Buddhist devotion.
From there, we walked along Saga Toriimoto Preserved Street, a beautifully maintained historic street lined with traditional houses and small temples. The area felt residential and calm, offering a glimpse into what rural Kyoto once looked like. It was a gentle walk that naturally led us toward lunchtime.
Afternoon Temples
After lunch, we continued exploring the Sagano area with a visit to Giōji Temple, a small and quietly atmospheric temple tucked away from the main paths. Giōji is best known for its moss garden, which felt especially serene. Soft green tones covered the ground beneath tall trees, creating a hushed, almost velvety landscape. The stillness of the space encouraged slow movement and quiet observation, making it easy to linger and take in the subtle beauty of the surroundings.
From there, we walked on to Jōjakkōji Temple, set on a hillside and reached by a gently climbing path. The temple grounds felt spacious and calm, with winding trails that led through trees and past traditional buildings. Views opened up through the branches as we moved higher, offering glimpses of Kyoto below. Jōjakkōji felt peaceful and slightly removed, a rewarding stop for those willing to walk a little further and spend time away from the busier areas of Arashiyama.
The Sagano Romantic Train
In the mid-afternoon, we made our way to Torokko Arashiyama Station to board the Sagano Romantic Train. The scenic ride follows the Hozugawa River through a narrow valley, offering views of forested hills, rocky riverbanks, and winding water below. Sitting back and watching the landscape pass by was a welcome change of pace after a full day on foot. The gentle rhythm of the train and the unfolding scenery made it an easy and relaxing way to experience another side of the region.
After arriving at Torokko Kameoka Station, we walked to Umahori Station and took the train back toward the city, returning to the hotel in the late afternoon for a well-earned rest.
Dinner at Oryori Menami
After some downtime, we headed out for dinner at Oryori Menami, a restaurant well known for its excellent obanzai, Kyoto’s traditional home-style cooking. The atmosphere was warm and relaxed, making it an ideal place to wind down after a day of walking through temples and gardens.
We began with their assortment of appetisers, a beautiful introduction to obanzai cuisine. Each small dish showcased seasonal ingredients prepared thoughtfully. We also ordered an assorted sashimi platter, fresh and delicately sliced, alongside seasonal vegetables that highlighted the flavours of the time of year.
Among the standout dishes were a deep-fried spring roll filled with yuba, crisp on the outside and soft within, and boiled sardines with ginger, gently seasoned and comforting. We also enjoyed roasted ginkgo nuts, slightly bitter and nutty, as well as grilled fish cooked to perfection. One of the most memorable dishes was the baked wheat gluten cakes, a classic Kyoto ingredient with a satisfying texture and subtle flavour.
Each plate felt carefully balanced, both in taste and presentation, reflecting Kyoto’s emphasis on seasonality and restraint. Dinner at Oryori Menami was unpretentious yet deeply satisfying, a meal that felt rooted in tradition and perfectly suited to the calm rhythm of the city.
As the day came to a close, Arashiyama and Sagano stood out as some of the most peaceful places we visited in Kyoto. From forested temple paths to riverside walks and comforting meals, the area offered a calm contrast to the city’s busier districts.
Would you choose to spend a day surrounded by bamboo and mountains, or stay closer to Kyoto’s historic streets?
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