After a full first day arriving in Occitanie and exploring Nîmes, we woke up in Arles, ready for a slower but no less layered day. While Arles is often grouped mentally with Occitanie, it actually sits just across the regional border in Provence, and the shift is subtle but noticeable. The light feels softer, the pace more unhurried, and the town carries a slightly more introspective mood.
We chose to stop in Arles for two main reasons. First, it was one of the most important Roman cities in southern France, once a major port on the Rhône with monuments that still shape the modern town. Second, Arles has a deep and personal connection to Vincent van Gogh, whose time here marked one of the most intense and productive periods of his life. Few places balance ancient history and artistic legacy as directly as Arles.
Entering Arles
After crossing the windy bridge from the area where we were staying, we entered downtown Arles and immediately felt the change in atmosphere. The streets narrowed, the light softened, and before long we found ourselves in Place de la République, the historic centre of the city.
This square is also where we bought our tickets to explore Arles’ Roman remains. The best way to see the Roman sites is with a city pass, available from the Arles tourism office either in person or online. There are two options. The Advantage Pass costs 16 euros and includes access to all the major Roman monuments and museums, including the Saint-Trophime cloister, representing a saving of 20.50 euros. The Liberté Pass costs 12 euros and allows entry to one museum and four monuments of your choice. We chose the Advantage Pass and began our visit underground.
The Cryptoportiques Beneath the City
Beneath the Hôtel de Ville lies one of Arles’ most unusual Roman sites. At first glance, the cryptoportiques are long, dark, vaulted corridors that offer welcome coolness on a hot Provençal day. For anyone with even a passing interest in Roman history, however, they are far more engaging than that.
These underground galleries once supported the ancient forum above. Walking through them feels direct and physical, with little separating you from the structure as it was used nearly two thousand years ago. Chisel marks are still visible in the stone, and the space remains remarkably intact. Accessed through the town hall, the cryptoportiques are easy to overlook, which only adds to their impact once inside.
Saint-Trophime: Church and Cloister
From the cryptoportiques, we continued to Saint-Trophime, visiting both the church and the cloister. The church itself is solid and restrained, its Romanesque architecture reflecting the long religious history of the city. Inside, the atmosphere is subdued and cool, offering a brief pause from the streets outside.
The cloister provides a contrast in form rather than mood. Its arcaded walkways and carved capitals are orderly and repetitive, encouraging attention to detail rather than spectacle. After the enclosed darkness of the cryptoportiques, the open courtyard felt measured and calm.
Van Gogh’s Arles
We then stepped away from Roman history and walked to L’Espace Van Gogh, formerly the Hôtel-Dieu hospital. This is where Vincent van Gogh was treated after the incident in December 1888 in which he mutilated his ear. Today, the building houses cultural spaces arranged around a central courtyard painted in yellows and greens that deliberately echo Van Gogh’s palette.
Van Gogh arrived in Arles in February 1888, drawn by the southern light and the intensity of colour he believed he could not achieve elsewhere. In just over a year, he produced more than 300 works here. Arles was not simply a setting for Van Gogh but a turning point, where his style became more defined and more emotionally charged.
Traces of his time in the city appear repeatedly as you walk through Arles. Along the Rhône, the riverbank recalls the setting of Starry Night Over the Rhône. Nearby, a simple easel marks the former location of the Yellow House on Place Lamartine, where Van Gogh lived and hoped to establish a community of artists with Paul Gauguin. The building itself was destroyed during World War II, but the site remains an important reference point for understanding his time in the city.
What makes Van Gogh’s legacy in Arles particularly striking is the contrast between the clarity of the work produced here and the instability of his personal life. The city reflects both, without attempting to resolve the tension between them.
Lunch
From L’Espace Van Gogh, we walked through the surrounding streets to lunch at Café Restaurant Eat Parade, a relaxed and unfussy spot. I ordered a bánh mì, while Victor chose a croque monsieur. It was straightforward and satisfying, and a good break before the afternoon’s museum visit.
Roman Arles at the Museum
On the way to the museum, we passed what remains of the Roman Circus. Very little is left today, and without context, it would be easy to miss entirely. Standing there, it takes some imagination to picture what was once a large chariot racing arena, another reminder of just how extensive Roman Arles originally was.
We then spent a significant amount of time at the Musée Départemental Arles Antique, which turned out to be one of the highlights of the day. The museum presents Roman Arles clearly and without excess, allowing the objects themselves to carry the story. Sculptures, mosaics, decorated sarcophagi, and everyday items give a sense not only of public grandeur but of daily life in the Roman city.
The scale models showing how Arles would have looked in Roman times were particularly useful. After walking through the city earlier in the day, seeing the monuments placed together helped clarify how the ancient city functioned and how closely it aligns with the modern one.
Coffee, Baths, and Theatre
Back in downtown Arles, we stopped for a coffee in one of the central squares, sitting outside and enjoying the sunshine. It was a welcome pause after the intensity of the museum and a chance to simply observe the pace of the city.
From there, we walked to the Thermes de Constantin, the remains of Constantine’s baths and the last visible traces of his palace in Arles. Only part of the structure is exposed today, but what remains is solid and atmospheric. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it underscores the importance of Arles during the later Roman period.
We then visited the Théâtre Antique, built during the reign of Augustus. Much of it was dismantled in the fifth century, but the remaining columns, fragments of seating, and the orchestra still suggest its original scale. It would once have been even grander than the Roman theatre in Orange. Many of the statues and architectural elements discovered here are now housed in the Musée Départemental Arles Antique.
After leaving the theatre, we finally passed the Arènes. Unlike many Roman structures in Arles that were dismantled over time for their stone, the amphitheatre largely survived. Originally one storey higher and clad in marble, it once seated over 20,000 spectators. We chose not to enter, having visited the amphitheatre in Nîmes the day before, but even from the outside, its size and presence are striking.
An Evening in Arles
As the day wound down, we stopped at a few local shops to pick up supplies for dinner, including a visit to a fromagerie to choose a selection of cheeses. Rather than heading out again, we decided to enjoy a quiet evening back at our accommodation.
It turned into one of those simple but memorable travel nights. Cheese laid out on the table, good bread, and the chance to sit still after a full day of walking and discovery. After days filled with Roman stones and Van Gogh’s legacy, it felt fitting to end our time in Arles in such a relaxed and local way.
Arles is a town shaped by layers of history, but it is in the quiet moments, wandering its streets or sharing a simple meal, that it truly reveals itself.
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