After several days exploring northeastern Thailand, from Khon Kaen to the Mekong border towns of Udon Thani and Nong Khai, it was finally time to begin the road trip portion of our journey through Isan. But before picking up our rental car, we made an early detour.
Red Lotus Lake
It turned out that we had arrived at just the right time of year to see the Red Lotus Lake near Udon Thani, as the blooming season was beginning. The flowers open early in the morning and close again by around midday, so visiting requires a very early start.
Originally, I hadn’t planned to go, thinking we would be too early in the season. However, after seeing some recent photos posted on Facebook showing the lake already in bloom, I quickly changed my mind. Since we couldn’t collect our rental car early enough, we arranged a round-trip driver from our hotel in Udon Thani instead. We left at 6:00 AM while the sky was still soft with morning light and arrived at the lake just as the flowers were opening.
The lake, known locally as Talay Bua Daeng (Red Lotus Sea), is one of the most famous natural attractions in northeastern Thailand. During the cool season, vast stretches of the shallow freshwater lake become covered in bright pink water lilies, creating a striking carpet of colour across the water. Visitors explore the lake by small wooden boats that glide slowly through the flowers. Despite its name, the blooms are actually tropical water lilies rather than true lotuses, but the effect is just as spectacular.
What I hadn’t read about before visiting, however, were the birds. Hundreds of small waterbirds darted across the lake, running lightly across the lily pads and weaving between the flowers. Watching them skim across the water’s surface added another layer of life to the scene and made the experience feel even more magical.
As our boat continued across the lake, we also passed through an area where pink lotus flowers were just beginning to bloom. Their tall stems rose above the water lilies, the blossoms still partially closed in the early morning light. The contrast between the floating lilies and the taller lotus flowers added another beautiful dimension to the landscape.
After a peaceful boat ride through the blooms, we returned to Udon Thani around 9:00 AM. From there, we headed to the airport to pick up our rental car, officially beginning our road trip across Isan.
Ban Chiang Archaeological Site
Our first stop on the road was Ban Chiang, one of Southeast Asia’s most important archaeological sites.
Before entering the archaeological site itself, we stopped for an early lunch in the nearby small village. We went to ร้านเพชรา, a charming local restaurant that felt like the kind of place where residents gather for a relaxed midday meal.
After lunch, we visited the Ban Chiang Archaeological Site and its museum. The site came to international attention in the late 1950s when distinctive pottery was discovered during construction in the village. Subsequent excavations revealed an ancient settlement and burial ground that dates back thousands of years.
Today, Ban Chiang is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered one of the most important prehistoric sites in Southeast Asia. Visitors can see part of the original excavation pit, where skeletons and pottery fragments are displayed in the positions in which they were discovered.
Nearby, the Ban Chiang National Museum houses a much larger collection of artefacts, including the famous pottery decorated with swirling red designs on a buff-coloured background, a style that has become synonymous with the ancient civilisation that once lived here.
Driving Through Isan
Leaving Ban Chiang behind, we continued east through the countryside of northeastern Thailand. The landscape here feels very different from the more densely populated regions around Bangkok. Rice fields stretch across wide plains, small villages appear along quiet roads, and temples rise above clusters of houses in the distance. The pace of life seems slower, and the journey itself becomes part of the experience.
By late afternoon, we arrived in Sakon Nakhon, a quiet provincial city surrounded by lakes and temples.
Exploring Sakon Nakhon
After checking into our hotel, we headed out to explore the city. Our first stop was Wat Phra That Choeng Chum Worawihan, one of Sakon Nakhon’s most important temples. The temple’s large golden stupa stands prominently in the centre of the city and is believed to house sacred Buddhist relics. The complex was calm and atmospheric in the late afternoon light, with locals coming to pray and wander through the grounds.
From there, we continued to Somdet Phra Srinagarindra Park, a peaceful park located beside Nong Han Lake, the largest natural lake in northeastern Thailand. As the evening cooled, locals gathered in the park to walk, exercise, and enjoy the lakeside paths.
Dinner in Sakon Nakhon
After our walk through the park, we headed to Saban Nga Restaurant, a local spot known for its traditional Isan cuisine. It turned out to be one of our favourite meals of the entire trip.
The restaurant had a relaxed, very local atmosphere, the kind of place where families gather for dinner, and the menu focuses on classic regional dishes. We started with incredible fish cakes, crispy on the outside and packed with flavour. We also ordered a steamed fish dish marinated with herbs and gently cooked, served alongside fresh vegetables. Along with that, we shared a spicy seafood salad bright with lime, chilli, and herbs.
After dinner, we stopped by ขนมแม่ สาขาสกลนคร for dessert. I ordered a bowl of butterfly pea sago with young coconut and corn, which was lightly sweet and refreshing after the rich dinner.
Lotus Ponds and Tha Rae Village
The next morning, we made a couple of stops before continuing our journey east. First, we visited Kasetsart University Lotus and Waterlily Park, where ponds filled with lotus and water lilies were beginning to bloom. Walking around the ponds offered a quiet and peaceful start to the day.
From there, we drove to Tha Rae Village, located about 20 kilometres from Sakon Nakhon along the road toward Nakhon Phanom. Tha Rae is known for having the largest Christian community in Thailand. The village was founded more than a century ago by Vietnamese Catholics who migrated to the region in the late nineteenth century under the guidance of French missionaries.
The village has a distinctive grid layout and many of the houses along the main street reflect French architectural influences. Tha Rae is particularly famous for its Christmas Star Festival, held every December, when residents decorate their homes with star-shaped lanterns and illuminated floats parade through the town.
Arriving in Nakhon Phanom
From Tha Rae, we continued driving east until we reached Nakhon Phanom, a peaceful city located directly on the Mekong River. Compared with some of the larger cities in the region, Nakhon Phanom immediately felt quieter and more relaxed. Traffic slowed to let pedestrians cross the street, and the pace of life seemed gentler. Although the town itself is quite flat, it is often called the “City of Mountains” thanks to the beautiful view of the rugged Lao mountains rising across the Mekong.
The city has long been shaped by the cultures that surround it. In particular, Nakhon Phanom is home to one of the largest Vietnamese communities in Thailand, a legacy of several waves of migration during the twentieth century.
One of the highlights of Nakhon Phanom is its long riverside promenade, which stretches for more than ten kilometres along the Mekong. Wide walking and cycling paths run beside the river, offering uninterrupted views toward Laos.
As we walked along the promenade, we passed locals jogging, cycling, and gathering in small groups to watch the river. The atmosphere felt calm and open, with the mountains of Laos forming a dramatic backdrop across the water. Along the riverfront stands one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks: the large Naga statue, known as Phaya Si Satta Nakharat, which represents the mythical serpent believed to protect the Mekong.
Lunch on the Mekong
For lunch, we stopped at Kitchen Khong, a restaurant overlooking the river. Sitting beside the Mekong with Laos visible across the water made it a perfect place to pause and enjoy the scenery.
We ordered a few dishes to share, including a spicy papaya salad with salted egg, a plate of stir-fried melinjo leaves with egg, and a spicy fish hot pot prepared in a northern Thai style. The bold flavours and heat of the dishes felt perfectly suited to the riverside setting, and the combination of fresh herbs, chilli, and fragrant broth made it one of those satisfying meals that seems even better when eaten with a view of the river slowly flowing past.
Afterwards, we checked into our hotel and spent some time resting before heading out again later in the afternoon.
Sunset on the Mekong
In the evening, we returned to the river for a sunset cruise along the Mekong. The boat slowly glided along the water as the sun dropped toward the horizon, turning the river golden and casting soft light across the mountains of Laos. Watching the landscape change colours as evening arrived was a peaceful way to experience the Mekong.
After the cruise, we headed back into town for dinner at Rabiang Kong, a riverside restaurant known for its seafood and views over the Mekong. The setting was relaxed, with a gentle breeze coming off the river as the evening settled in.
We ordered giant river prawns and a steamed whole fish, both incredibly fresh and simply prepared to highlight the natural flavours. Sitting by the water and enjoying the seafood after a sunset on the Mekong felt like the perfect way to end the day before heading back to the hotel for the night.
Ho Chi Minh’s House
The following morning, we visited Ho Chi Minh’s House, located in the nearby village of Ban Na Chok.
Many people are surprised to learn that Nakhon Phanom once played an important role in Vietnamese history. During the early twentieth century, the future Vietnamese leader Ho Chi Minh lived here for a period while organising revolutionary activity against French colonial rule in Indochina.
The modest wooden house where he stayed has been carefully preserved and today forms part of a small historical site. Walking through the simple rooms, surrounded by gardens and fruit trees, offered a glimpse into an unexpected chapter of the region’s history and the close connections between the Mekong communities of Thailand and Vietnam.
After visiting Ho Chi Minh’s house, we continued our journey south, following the Mekong deeper into northeastern Thailand.
The next stage of the road trip will take us through more riverside towns and landscapes along the Thai–Lao border.
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