One November, my partner and I escaped the city for a birthday trip to the Catalan volcanic mountains, a breathtaking region full of natural wonders, charming towns, and peaceful retreats. I wanted autumn leaves and profound cosiness. It had been a busy year so far, and I couldn’t think of anything better than spending time in nature during my favourite season.
Over two days, we explored volcanic craters, ancient beech forests, and historic villages, ending the day in a cosy tree house nestled in the woods. Read on the learn more!
Day 1: Forests, Volcanoes, and Olot
We flew into Barcelona on Wednesday evening and started early Thursday morning with breakfast at Victor’s parents’ place before driving about 1.5 hours to the Fageda d’en Jordà. This protected beech forest, growing atop an ancient lava flow, felt like stepping into another world. The soft carpet of leaves, the towering trunks, and the peaceful atmosphere were captivating.
Next, we drove to Santa Pau to begin the Santa Margarida Volcano trail. We passed briefly through the historic town, with glimpses of its medieval stone buildings and Gothic castle, before heading out on foot. After crossing the Ser River, we climbed a narrow road and soon found ourselves surrounded by fields and forest.
The trail followed the left bank of the Ser for a stretch, offering lovely views back toward Santa Pau. As we moved deeper into the landscape, the town faded from view, and we entered a more secluded, natural environment. We passed holm oak forests, a quiet spring known as Font de Clavell, and signs of the region’s volcanic history, including the wooded slopes of the Roca Negra volcano and an old quarry hidden in the hillside.
The path gradually brought us closer to the Santa Margarida Volcano. After a short uphill section, the forest opened onto a wide, grassy crater. At its centre stood a small stone chapel, quiet and solitary, surrounded by the curved walls of the ancient volcano. It was peaceful and atmospheric, a place that felt both wild and sacred.
Our third hike of the day took us to the nearby Croscat Colcano, known for its distinctive horseshoe-shaped crater and the grederas — steep volcanic cliffs created by historic quarrying. Walking up to the volcano’s face, we marvelled at the layers of volcanic rock and the vivid colours formed by oxidation.
After our explorations, we drove a short distance to Restaurant Masnou for a hearty and much-needed lunch. Tucked away in a quiet, rural spot just outside Santa Pau, the restaurant felt warm and welcoming the moment we stepped inside. The interior had a rustic charm, with wooden beams, stone walls, and wide windows overlooking the rolling Garrotxa countryside. It was the perfect setting for a slow, comforting meal.
The menu featured traditional Catalan fare, much of it inspired by the volcanic land around us. We began with fesols de Santa Pau amb botifarra de perol i calamars, a regional specialty featuring the prized fesols de Santa Pau beans. These beans are renowned for their creamy texture and rich, slightly sweet flavour, cultivated in the volcanic soil of the Garrotxa region, which imparts a unique minerality. Paired with botifarra de perol, a soft, peppery sausage typical of Catalonia, and tender calamari, the dish was a perfect harmony of land and sea. We then enjoyed a generous serving of brandade, a creamy, flavorful spread made from salt cod, olive oil, and garlic. Next, we had bacallà confitat amb samfaina i mel, a delicate piece of confit cod nestled underneath a generous helping of samfaina, Catalonia’s version of ratatouille, finished with a drizzle of honey.
We rounded off our meal with a beautifully presented dessert, tiramisu amb fruites i sorbet. This twist on the classic tiramisu created a light yet indulgent finish to the meal.
In the afternoon, we visited Olot, the region’s capital, and wandered through the lively covered market, where fresh mushrooms, cheeses, and local produce were on display. The town’s relaxed streets, dotted with volcanic stone buildings and modernist architecture, made for a charming stroll.
We then headed to Cabanyes entre Valls, our accommodation for the duration of the trip. Staying in the Coll s’Espunya cabanya, a luxury wooden treehouse with a private terrace, outdoor hot tub, and bathroom, felt like a perfect retreat. We spent the evening soaking in the hot tub under the stars and lighting the fireplace inside.
We also enjoyed a delicious dinner prepared and delivered by our hosts. We enjoyed some freshly baked bread, roasted seasonal vegetables, and pumpkin soup, with a delightful bottle of red wine. It was a cosy and intimate end to a full day of adventure.
Day 2: A Slow Morning and Autumn Serenity
The next morning, we woke to breakfast delivered via a rustic pulley basket to our terrace. Inside was a beautiful spread of flaky croissants, cured meats, cheeses, fresh bread with tomato, a variety of tapenades, freshly squeezed orange juice, and coffee. Wrapped in blankets, we enjoyed our breakfast with spectacular views over La Vall de Bianya.
After breakfast, we took a gentle walk around the property to admire the vivid autumn leaves. The golden and crimson colours blanketed the forest floor, and the cool morning air was filled with the scent of the woods. The peaceful surroundings made it easy to slow down and soak in the quiet beauty before packing up.
Once we checked out, we made our way to the stunning cliffside town of Castellfollit de la Roca, perched dramatically on a narrow ridge of volcanic rock between the Fluvià and Toronell rivers. It’s one of the most striking villages in Catalonia, instantly recognisable by its row of stone houses precariously lining the edge of a sheer basalt cliff that rises more than 50 meters high and stretches nearly a kilometre long.
We went specifically to see these basalt rock formations, a natural spectacle created by the solidification of lava flows from ancient volcanic eruptions. Over time, the cooling lava cracked and fractured vertically, forming a striking wall of columnar basalt. Standing at the base of the cliff and looking up, we were in awe of the geometric precision and dark, earthy tones of the rock, as well as how the village appears to balance on top of it, defying gravity.
Next, we stopped in Sant Joan Les Fonts, a charming village known for its medieval bridges, natural springs, and tranquil atmosphere. As we explored the town, we got a glimpse of local life, with quiet streets, stone houses, and the peaceful rhythm of a place deeply rooted in its surroundings.
One of the highlights was visiting the basalt rock formations along the Fluvià River, where layered lava flows from different eruptions are clearly visible. These geological layers are part of what makes this area so unique. Standing by the water, we could trace the volcanic story of the region etched into the rock, each layer marking a different period of eruption and cooling.
For lunch, we indulged at Torre Simón, a standout seafood restaurant tucked away in the countryside, not far from Sant Joan les Fonts. The restaurant is housed in a traditional Catalan masia, or farmhouse, blending rustic charm with refined culinary focus. Surrounded by quiet fields and forested hills, the setting felt peaceful and intimate.
Our meal included sea urchin gratin (six cloves), monkfish and prawn soup, mussels prepared in salt, a wonderfully fresh fish dish, and a lemony cannelloni for dessert. Each course was a celebration of the sea’s bounty, perfectly prepared and bursting with flavour.
With our appetites and spirits satisfied, we then made the drive back to Barcelona, grateful for the unforgettable mix of nature, culture, and cuisine that defined our Catalan birthday trip.
This is Catalonia at its most beautiful in autumn. Have you been?
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