Ho Chi Minh City was our first taste of Vietnam. It was loud, bright, fast, and full of energy from the moment we arrived. We’d heard stories about the chaos of traffic, the magic of street food, and the way old and new coexist across the city, but nothing quite prepares you for the feeling of being there. The pulse of scooters, the warmth in the air, the scent of strong coffee drifting from every corner, it all hits you at once.
As the former Saigon, the city carries layers of history. You see it in the grand colonial buildings, the narrow alleyways, the wartime remnants, and the glass towers that now pierce the skyline. But what stood out most in those first few hours was the pace. Life here moves quickly, but there is an ease to it. Street vendors work with quiet efficiency. Coffee shops hum with a slow confidence. Parks fill with people starting their day together, casually but purposefully.
We didn’t know it yet, but we would fall in love with Ho Chi Minh City and Vietnam. What started in a blur of jet lag and curiosity would become a place we remembered for its flavour, its rhythm, and its quiet surprises.
Arrival in HCMC
We landed in Ho Chi Minh City early on a Sunday morning, jet-lagged but buzzing with anticipation. After grabbing SIM cards and withdrawing some cash at the airport, we reached our accommodation by 9am and dropped off our bags.
Despite the long flight, we couldn’t resist heading straight out to explore. A quick coffee kick-started our day before we hopped into a taxi and made our way to Pate Chaud SGC Saigon for lunch. This place is a must if you’re looking for something a little different. Their Pâté Chaud, a warm, savoury puff pastry filled with meat, pairs perfectly with any of their rich soups. Victor went for the Hủ Tiếu/Mì Dê Kho, a rich stewed goat noodle soup, while I had the Hủ Tiếu/Mì Cá Xác, a delicate noodle soup made with pangasius macronema fish (aka Whiskered catfish). Both dishes were hearty, flavourful, and perfect for easing into Vietnam’s incredible food culture.
After the meal, the fatigue hit us hard. We walked back and took a well-earned nap.
Evening Wanderings in District 1
Around 6pm, we headed back out to explore District 1. One of the architectural highlights was the Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee Head Office, a gorgeous French colonial building glowing under the evening lights.
From there, we strolled down Nguyễn Huệ Boulevard, a wide pedestrian street full of energy and locals out for a walk. We passed by the iconic Majestic Hotel and the bustling Ben Thanh Market.
Later, we found ourselves on Bùi Viện Walking Street, a neon-lit, slightly chaotic strip known for nightlife, street food, and people-watching. We grabbed a bite from a street food stall and eventually made our way back to the hotel.
Departure to the Mekong Delta
Jet lag had us up early the next day, so we set out for breakfast around 7am. We ended up at Hủ tiếu mì Bùi Chu, a popular local spot that taught us something essential about eating in Vietnam: most casual or street food places focus on just one or two dishes, but offer a surprising number of ways to customise them.
Hủ tiếu is a great example. While it’s often served as a noodle soup, you can also order it dry, known as hủ tiếu khô, where the noodles and toppings come without broth, usually with a small bowl of soup on the side. You can choose the type of noodles too, from rice noodles to egg noodles or a combination of both. Then there’s the choice of toppings, commonly pork, shrimp, squid, or fish.
I went for hủ tiếu cá, the fish version, which was light, savoury, and full of flavour. It’s worth noting that even when you order a seafood version, the broth is usually made from pork bones, so it’s not truly pescatarian or vegetarian-friendly. It was delicious, though!
With full bellies, we boarded a bus to the Mekong Delta, the next leg of our adventure. You can read about our time in the coconut kingdom of Bến Tre and the wild waters of Cần Thơ, plus our journey through Đà Nẵng, Hội An, Huế, Phong Nha, Ninh Bình, Cát Bà, Hànội, and even side trips to Laos and Cambodia.
Back in HCMC
Our Vietnam adventure came full circle when we returned to Ho Chi Minh City on a Tuesday evening. For our final dinner, we set out in search of a well-known bún riêu place we had heard about. However, when we arrived, we found it was closed. Just next door, though, there was another spot full of people. The sign read Bún Riêu Cua Ốc 66, and with the crowd spilling out onto the street, we figured it was worth a try.
Like many street food places in Vietnam, this one served just a single dish. There was no menu, and there didn’t need to be. You sit down, and a bowl of steaming hot bún riêu arrives shortly after.
Bún riêu is a noodle soup that originated in northern Vietnam but is beloved throughout the country. It’s made with thin rice vermicelli and a tomato-based broth that is light yet rich, tangy, and slightly sweet. The star of the dish is a delicate paste made from freshwater crab, which forms soft, custard-like clumps in the soup. It’s often served with additional toppings like fried tofu, pork, snails, or blood pudding, and always comes with a plate of fresh herbs and vegetables on the side.
While we were eating, we noticed that almost everyone around us had the same drink. Curious, we flagged someone down and ordered one too. It turned out to be nước mía, or fresh sugarcane juice, pressed right there at the front of the shop and served over ice. It was cool, naturally sweet, and surprisingly perfect alongside the warm, savoury soup. Clearly, this pairing was no accident.
Final Morning
Our last day in HCMC began with breakfast at Xôi Gà Number One (Chính Gốc). Xôi Gà is sticky rice topped with chicken. It’s simple, delicious, and beloved across Vietnam. I tried Xôi Bắp, a version with green beans and sugar. It was both sweet and savoury, and surprisingly satisfying. I absolutely loved this dish!
Independence Palace: A Walk Through History
One of the standout stops on our final day in Ho Chi Minh City was the Independence Palace, also known as the Reunification Palace. We had seen it from the outside earlier in our trip, but this time we took the time to go inside and explore properly.
The palace is more than just an impressive building. It’s one of the most important landmarks in modern Vietnamese history. Originally built during French colonial rule and later redesigned in the 1960s, it served as the home and workplace of the President of South Vietnam during the Vietnam War. It was here, in 1975, that a North Vietnamese tank famously crashed through the gates, marking the fall of Saigon and the end of the war. That moment is still etched into the national memory, and being there made it all feel much more real.
The first floor gives you a sense of the grandeur and power once projected by the South Vietnamese government. The rooms here are wide and ceremonial, built to impress. You walk through grand reception halls where foreign dignitaries were once welcomed, complete with plush carpets, lacquered wood panelling, and enormous chandeliers.
The Cabinet Room and State Banqueting Hall are still arranged as they were in the 1970s, featuring long conference tables, fresh red carpeting, and national flags behind every podium.
Moving upstairs, the second floor feels more personal, offering a glimpse into the daily life of the President and his family. There’s a library, a private living room, and the President’s bedroom, all preserved in a kind of suspended time. You start to see that this was not just a workplace, but also a home.
The décor is very much of the era. There are bold carpets, retro furnishings, and plenty of 1960s aesthetics. It’s oddly familiar and distant at the same time.
The third floor is where things become a little more surprising. This level was designed for comfort and leisure, even during tense times. It houses a cinema, a library, a games room complete with a round poker table, and the First Lady’s Reception Room. The atmosphere is relaxed and private, almost in contrast with the political weight carried by the rest of the building.
Above the third floor, you can access the rooftop terrace, which features a helicopter landing pad. A model of a UH-1 Huey helicopter still sits there as a reminder of the emergency escape plans that were very real during the final days of the war. From here, you get a wide view over the palace grounds and the city beyond.
Descending into the basement takes you into a completely different world. This level is set up as a wartime command bunker, with reinforced concrete walls and narrow, bunker-like hallways. You walk past old switchboards, communications equipment, maps, and war-era documents. It’s stark and utilitarian, and a little eerie. This was the brain of the palace during conflict, where decisions were made and messages relayed under pressure.
The Independence Palace truly is a wonder, and definitely not a place to miss.
Lunch at Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang Thành Đạt
For lunch, we returned to our hủ tiếu quest, this time at Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang Thành Đạt. One of the things we really came to appreciate in Vietnam is how each hủ tiếu spot has its own way of doing things. The core idea stays the same, but every bowl is a little different.
At this place, ordering was straightforward. First, you choose whether you want your noodles served with soup or dry. Then, you decide on your noodle type. The two main options are rice vermicelli noodles or ramen-style egg noodles. We both chose the rice vermicelli with soup.
The bowl that arrived was generous and filled with a variety of options. It came with shrimp, slices of pork, heart meat, and a few other cuts, along with a soft quail egg nestled on top. The broth was clear and light but packed with flavour, slightly sweet and deeply savoury. This style of hủ tiếu, known as Nam Vang, has roots in Cambodian and Chinese cuisine, which gives it a more layered and subtly complex taste.
Museum, Coffee, and Wandering
After lunch, we made our way to the Ho Chi Minh City Museum of Fine Arts. It’s not as heavily visited as the city’s big-name landmarks, but that’s part of what made it so special. Once you step inside, the pace of the city seems to fade away. The museum is housed in a stunning colonial-era mansion, with sweeping staircases, French balconies, tiled floors, and tall shuttered windows that let in beautiful natural light. The building itself is a work of art, with its faded yellow facade and intricate ironwork.
The museum is spread across three floors, with each level offering a different look at Vietnam’s artistic history and evolution.
The upper floors house the museum’s permanent collection, including paintings, sculptures, woodcut prints, and lacquer work dating from the early 20th century to the post-war period. Much of the art reflects Vietnam’s political history, with themes of resistance, struggle, daily life, and cultural pride woven through the works.
One of the most interesting sections featured Vietnamese lacquer painting, a distinctive art form that combines traditional techniques with modern expression. The layers, colours, and detail in some of these pieces were captivating.
After the museum, we needed a break and headed to Lacàph Coffee Experiences Space, just a short walk away. It’s a beautifully designed café that takes Vietnamese coffee seriously. The space was quiet and elegant, and it felt more like a gallery than a typical coffee shop.
We had two coffees and shared a slice of their palm sugar honeycomb cake, which was excellent. Light and slightly chewy, with a deep caramel flavour, it paired perfectly with the rich, smooth coffee. The staff were welcoming and passionate about what they do.
We capped off our sightseeing with visits to the Notre-Dame Cathedral and The New Playground, a hip, youth-focused shopping space tucked under the city.
We also visited the Central Post Office. It’s a stunning example of French colonial design, with its grand vaulted ceilings, arched windows, and beautifully detailed maps adorning the walls. Inside, the buzz of postal workers and tourists blends with the nostalgic charm of old-fashioned telephone booths and vintage postcards.
Final Meal and Farewell
For our final dinner in Ho Chi Minh City, we chose Bún Chả Hà Nội 26, a popular spot known for its authentic northern Vietnamese flavours. The menu was simple, but everything was fresh and full of character.
We shared bánh tôm chiên, crispy shrimp cakes served over rice noodles, and miến xào cua, fried glass noodles with sea crab. Both dishes were delicious and satisfying, showcasing the subtle yet vibrant tastes of Hanoi-style cooking.
To end the night, we made one final stop: the famous Cafe Apartment on Nguyễn Huệ, where we had a drink and took in the nighttime city view.
Then it was time to collect our packs, head to the airport, and say goodbye to Vietnam. On our way back to the hotel, we unexpectedly came across a large Tết celebration. It was truly special to witness a glimpse of the Vietnamese Lunar New Year festivities while still in the city. The streets were alive with colourful decorations, traditional music, and joyful crowds. It felt like a perfect, festive way to close our time in Ho Chi Minh City.
Ho Chi Minh City was the perfect start and finish to our Southeast Asia adventure. From soulful noodle soups and crispy pastries to French-colonial landmarks and bustling markets, the city offered something unforgettable at every turn. We left with full stomachs, full hearts, and a promise to return.
Until next time, Vietnam.
No Comments