We arrived in Hanoi on a cold but bustling evening after travelling from Cat Ba, following a long journey that involved a bus, a ferry, and then another bus. Hanoi marked our final stop in northern Vietnam before crossing into Laos, making it a fitting place to slow down and soak up everything this region has to offer.
After weeks of travelling through northern Vietnam, from limestone karsts and coastal towns to smaller cities and villages, Hanoi felt like a culmination. It was lively, layered, and intense in all the ways the north often is. Once we checked into our accommodation, we headed straight back out. If there is one thing Hanoi does exceptionally well, it is food.
Our first meal in the city was at Chả Cá Hà Nội 1871, a popular spot on the edge of the Old Quarter that specialises in chả cá, grilled chopped fish cooked at the table. We were served a platter of rice noodles, peanuts, fresh herbs, onions, and a fish sauce-based dipping sauce, alongside a pan of fish and vegetables sizzling over a small flame.
Cooking everything ourselves made the meal feel interactive and fun, and the flavours were bold but balanced. It was the kind of experience Hanoi does so well, simple food prepared with care and enjoyed slowly.
After dinner, we wandered through the surrounding streets of the Old Quarter. Many restaurants advertise just one or two dishes, with illuminated signs proudly displaying their specialities. We finished the evening with dessert and ordered chè, Vietnam’s beloved sweet soup. If you are curious about chè, I go into more detail in my blog post on Hội An.
Wandering the Old Quarter on Foot
The next morning, after breakfast at our accommodation, we returned to the Old Quarter for a self-guided walking tour. This part of Hanoi feels like the historic and cultural heart of the city and is best explored on foot.
We began at Hoan Kiem Lake, a peaceful and photogenic lake surrounded by important landmarks. Sitting on a small island in the centre of the lake is Ngoc Son Temple, which you reach by crossing a striking scarlet red bridge. The temple is dedicated to General Trần Hưng Đạo, who defeated the Mongols in the 13th century, La To, the patron saint of physicians, and the scholar Văn Xương.
The lake’s name translates to “Lake of the Restored Sword” and refers to a 15th century legend. According to the story, Emperor Lê Thái Tổ was gifted a magical sword by the heavens to defeat Chinese invaders. After the war, a giant golden turtle emerged from the lake, reclaimed the sword, and disappeared beneath the water to return it to its divine owners.
One of the most interesting details we learned was about the Swinhoe softshell turtles that once lived in the lake. These enormous turtles were believed to be protectors of the sword, and two preserved specimens are now displayed at the temple. It added an unexpected layer of folklore to the visit.
Nearby, we passed the Martyrs’ Monument, which honours those who died fighting for Vietnam’s independence, and stopped by the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre to buy tickets for that evening’s show.
Egg Coffee in Its Birthplace
By mid-morning, it was time for a coffee break. We stopped at Hanoi Coffee Station, where I ordered egg coffee, a drink that originated in Hanoi in 1946. Egg coffee was created by Nguyễn Văn Giảng during a milk shortage caused by the First Indochina War. He whisked egg yolks into coffee as a substitute for milk, and the drink quickly became popular. He later opened Café Giảng, which is still run by his family today.
Egg coffee is rich, thick, and quite decadent. It is not for everyone, especially when it is overly sweet, but when made well, it is beautifully balanced. After weeks of Vietnamese coffee, it felt right to try it in the city where it was first created.
Heritage Homes and Market Streets
From there, we continued to the Heritage House, one of the best restored traditional merchant houses in the Old Quarter. The rooms are filled with period furniture, ceramics, artwork, jewellery, and crafts, offering a glimpse into what life once looked like for wealthy traders.
Along with the furniture, there are also period pieces like ceramics, artwork, jewellery, and crafts.
Not long after, we found ourselves getting hungry again and walked towards Dong Xuan Market. The alley leading up to it is lined with food stalls selling just about everything imaginable. We stopped at Bánh Tôm Cô Ầm, which is famous for bánh tôm, crispy fried shrimp cakes cooked fresh in hot oil and served with a tangy dipping sauce made with garlic, papaya, and carrots. The place was busy, with people happily waiting for a seat, and the food was absolutely worth it.
We spent some time wandering through Dong Xuan Market itself and nearby outdoor stalls filled with Tết decorations. Walking through the Old Quarter, it is also hard not to notice that many streets are dedicated to specific products. This dates back to the 13th century, when Hanoi’s 36 guilds each claimed a street based on their trade.
We also walked along some streets that are themed around certain products. In the 13th century, Hanoi’s 36 guilds established themselves here, each taking a different street. This is why most of the streets are named for the products traditionally sold there.
A Very Hanoi Style Lunch
One of the things we found most interesting about Vietnamese food culture is that many street food dishes are relatively small. This makes it completely normal to eat multiple meals in one sitting.
After our shrimp cakes, we headed to Bún Chả Đắc Kim for what I jokingly call lunch part two. Bún chả is a Hanoi specialty made with grilled pork, noodles, herbs, and dipping sauce. We also ordered crab spring rolls. The dish arrives deconstructed, which is both a challenge and a delight to eat.
Evening Culture and Late Night Eats
After lunch, we stopped by St Joseph’s Cathedral, the oldest church in Hanoi. Built by the French between 1873 and 1886 in a style inspired by Notre Dame in Paris, it stands as a striking reminder of the city’s colonial past.
Later, after a rest back at our accommodation, we headed to the water puppet show. Water puppetry is a traditional Vietnamese art form that dates back to the 11th century and originated in the villages of the Red River Delta. The performance at Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre began with live traditional music and singing, followed by folk stories performed by beautifully carved wooden puppets gliding across the water. Although the show is entirely in Vietnamese, the movements and visuals were captivating.
The show finished around 9:00 pm, and we were ready to eat again. We went to Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư, a Michelin Guide-listed spot known for its pho. It is usually packed during the day, but because we went later in the evening, we were able to get a seat easily. I do not normally eat meat, but I wanted a small taste, and the broth was delicate, fragrant, and deeply flavourful.
To end the evening, we found one last chè spot for dessert. It felt like the perfect way to close out our final night exploring northern Vietnam.
Hanoi brought together so many of the things we had come to love about northern Vietnam, including bold flavours, deep history, layered folklore, and streets that feel alive at every hour of the day. The following day, we shifted our focus from food and atmosphere to history and politics, visiting some of Hanoi’s most important landmarks.
In the next post, I will explore Hanoi’s historical and political sites, including Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum, the Temple of Literature, and the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long, and reflect on what these places reveal about Vietnam’s past and present.
Vietnam is such a special place. Check out my other blog posts on Vietnam to read more about this incredible country!
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