Location: London, England
Cuisine: Venezuelan
Arepas were one of those foods I first discovered in London and then started noticing everywhere. My introduction came through Arepa & Co, at its canal-side restaurant in Haggerston. I have always credited it with teaching me what an arepa was. Made from maize dough, arepas are grilled until lightly crisp on the outside, then sliced open and generously filled with combinations of beans, cheese, avocado, plantain and slow-cooked meat. They are comforting, filling and endlessly versatile.
I encountered arepas again during a trip to Panama City in February 2023. One lunchtime, we stopped at Panadería Los Venezolanos, a simple but bustling bakery and café. Thanks to Panama’s large Venezuelan community, arepas are a familiar part of the city’s food scene, found everywhere from neighbourhood bakeries to street stalls. The ones we ate there were simple but packed with ingredients, reminding me just how satisfying they could be.
A family-run Venezuelan café on Brixton Road, just a few minutes from Oval Station, Conuco specialises in traditional Venezuelan comfort food. The menu revolves around arepas, empanadas, tequeños and pabellón criollo, using family recipes that feel rooted in home cooking rather than adapted for trends.
Some restaurants you try once. Others quietly become part of your London rotation. Conuco is firmly the latter.
First Visit, March 2024
The first time we went, it felt like discovering something special. We started with tequeños, golden, crisp cheese sticks with that perfect stretchy centre. Instantly comforting and instantly gone. To drink, we ordered papelón con limón, deep, earthy panela sweetness sharpened with lime, and chicha, creamy and cinnamon-laced, almost dessert-like but refreshing enough to sip alongside savoury food.
Then came the arepas. I chose the veggie arepa with black beans, shredded white cheese, avocado, and caramelised ripe plantain. It was everything at once. Salty, sweet, creamy, hearty. The plantain brought softness and sweetness that beautifully balanced the beans. Victor kept it simple with an arepa filled with avocado and cheese. Minimal but incredibly satisfying, proof that good ingredients do not need much embellishment.
We left full and happy, already planning to come back.
Second Visit, January 2026
Nearly two years later, we returned. This felt like the real test of whether something was a moment or a mainstay. I ordered the veggie arepa again, with no regrets and no need to experiment when something works. It was just as good. Generous, warm, deeply comforting.
Victor went for the pabellón criollo, Venezuela’s national dish of shredded beef, black beans, rice, and sweet plantain. In many ways, it carries the same flavour profile as my arepa, savoury and sweet in harmony, but the slow-cooked beef added richness and depth. He chose beef over chicken, and it was tender and full-bodied.
We added yuca chips on the side, crisp and lightly salted, perfect for dipping, and ordered chicha again because some traditions are worth repeating.
Why Conuco Works
What I love most about Conuco is its consistency. The flavours feel rooted and generous rather than adapted for trend. Nothing feels rushed or overworked. It is proper comfort food. Bold, balanced, and satisfying without being heavy.
Arepa & Co may have introduced me to arepas, and Panama showed me how readily they could become part of everyday eating. Conuco, however, is the place that made me want to return for exactly the same one. Perhaps that is the highest compliment I can give it. Nearly two years after my first visit, I did not want to try something new. I wanted the same veggie arepa again. It was every bit as good as I remembered.
Have you had an arepa? What’s your favourite filling?
No Comments