This post is part of my Barcelona Neighbourhood Guides series. Fancy visiting another area of Barcelona? Check out my other guides here, including information regarding the sites, history, charm, food and drinks of the area you’re curious about.
In the mid-nineteenth century, Barcelona faced a pressing need to expand beyond its medieval walls and into the surrounding fields. To address this challenge, Catalan engineer and urban planner Ildefons Cerdà developed the Barcelona Refurbishing and Expansion Plan, a visionary design based on a strict geometric grid, broad avenues, and generous green spaces.
Cerdà’s plan laid out a network of wide, straight streets forming a uniform grid of parallel and perpendicular lines, occasionally interrupted by diagonals to improve connectivity. The resulting district, known as L’Eixample (meaning “the extension”), is one of the most distinctive urban areas in Europe. Designed with health and efficiency in mind, the plan featured blocks with chamfered corners, broad sidewalks, and open interior courtyards. Streets were planned to be 20, 30, or even 60 meters wide, facilitating air circulation and sunlight, an early example of urban planning for public health. Buildings were originally intended to occupy only two sides of each block to maximise airflow and cleanliness, taking advantage of the prevailing winds to help oxygenate the city.
The Eixample is divided into six neighbourhoods. While the right side (Dreta de l’Eixample) often draws attention for its concentration of Modernist architecture, including Gaudí’s iconic landmarks, the left side (Esquerra de l’Eixample) offers a compelling example of how Cerdà’s original vision was implemented at scale. This post focuses on three key neighbourhoods on the left: L’Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample, Nova Esquerra de l’Eixample, and Sant Antoni.
L’Antiga Esquerra
The University of Barcelona: Neo-Romanesque Landmark
L’Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample is a quiet, residential neighbourhood, anchored along the Gran Via by the neo-Romanesque building of the University of Barcelona. Designed by architect Elies Rogent, the university’s historic building has become a landmark institution in the fields of science, technology, and innovation. Construction began in 1863, three years after the launch of the Cerdà Plan and the ceremonial laying of the first stone of the Eixample district. The building reflects the geometric character of L’Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample, with its structured blocks and interior courtyards filled with greenery.
The historic building of the University of Barcelona officially opened in 1871, more than two decades before its full completion. Around that time, numerous plant species were transplanted from the city’s old botanical garden to the new university gardens, where many of them still thrive today. The two existing ponds were added during a renovation in the 1930s, led by architect Josep Domènech.
Plaça del Doctor Letamendi and Local Flavours
One of the more recognisable squares in the area is Plaça del Doctor Letamendi. The square is named after Dr. Josep de Letamendi, a doctor, philosopher, poet and Catalan composer born in 1828 who devoted his life to the study and teaching.
Just off the square is a wonderful patisserie, simply called La Pastisseria. Founded by Josep Maria Rodríguez Guerola, the 2011 World Pastry Champion, and Ana Jarquín, a distinguished pastry chef, the establishment has garnered acclaim for its dedication to excellence in the art of pastry. I absolutely love their creations, and it’s the perfect place to get something special when there’s a holiday, like Christmas, Easter, or Sant Jordi (Catalunya’s Valentine’s Day).
Near the square is also Bodega Picarol, a vermouth bar. This traditional bodega has become a favourite among locals and visitors alike for its warm, inviting atmosphere and expertly crafted vermouth. It’s a classic spot, and nothing makes me feel like I’m more in Spain than here!
Beerxample: A Paradise for Craft Beer Lovers
The area’s growing number of specialty craft beer bars and microbreweries has earned it the nickname “Beerxample.” It’s the perfect neighbourhood for a beer-lover’s walking tour, with a vibrant scene that lets you hop from one standout spot to the next, sampling a wide range of local and international brews. Highlights include:
- BierCab, known for its extensive tap list and rare international selections;
- Garage Beer Co., a popular local brewery with bold, experimental flavours brewed on-site;
- Espiga, offering carefully crafted small-batch beers in a relaxed atmosphere; and
- BrewDog, the Barcelona outpost of the well-known Scottish brand, serves a mix of house brews and guest taps.
Whether you’re sipping vermouth under the plane trees, grabbing a seasonal pastry, or hopping between microbreweries, L’Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample balances tradition and trendiness in all the right ways.
Nova Esquerra
Originally, La Nova Esquerra de l’Eixample served a very different role from the leafy, residential neighbourhoods that now surround it. In the early days of the Cerdà Plan, this area was earmarked for essential but undesirable city services — factories, slaughterhouses, and even a prison — that wealthier residents preferred to keep at a distance from their homes. While demand for housing remained low, the neighbourhood offered something invaluable: space. That abundance of space would, over time, pave the way for public facilities, infrastructure, and later, reinvention.
Throughout the 20th century, La Nova Esquerra also attracted a cluster of publishing houses, many of which operated from architecturally distinctive buildings. Several of these structures, particularly those along the Gran Via, earned prestigious design awards. Today, many have been transformed into gardens, civic buildings, and cultural spaces, giving the area a unique blend of industrial heritage and creative renewal.
The Industrial School and Batlló Factory
A standout example of this is the site of the Industrial School on Carrer del Comte d’Urgell, which spans four full blocks of the Eixample grid. Originally the embroidery factory of the Batlló brothers and designed by renowned architect Rafael Guastavino, the complex exemplifies Catalan industrial architecture at its finest. Today, it houses an active educational campus while preserving much of its 19th-century character. Its imposing brickwork, arched interiors, and expansive courtyards offer a striking contrast to the uniformity of the surrounding residential blocks.
Joan Miró Park: Art and Legacy
One of the neighbourhood’s most iconic landmarks is Joan Miró Park, though it’s still affectionately called Parc de l’Escorxador (“Slaughterhouse Park”) by locals, a nod to the General Slaughterhouse of Barcelona that once stood on the same site. Inaugurated in 1891, the slaughterhouse centralised the city’s previously dispersed abattoirs. Its closure cleared the way for a new public park named in honour of one of Catalunya’s greatest artists, Joan Miró.
The park features “Woman and Bird” (Dona i Ocell), a towering 22-meter sculpture that became Miró’s final major work, completed in 1983 just before his death. Bright, surreal, and unmistakably Miró, it’s both a focal point and a tribute to his lifelong commitment to public art. The park also houses the Joan Miró Library, the first library in Barcelona to use an automated catalogue system. Designed by Beth Galí, Màrius Quintana, and Antoni Solanas, it’s a quiet place to reflect, read, or enjoy community programming.
Les Arenes: From Bullring to Rooftop Views
Another standout structure in the area is Les Arenes, the city’s former bullring. Opened in 1900, it was designed by architect August Font i Carreras in the Neo-Mudéjar style, characterised by ornate red brickwork and horseshoe arches inspired by Islamic architecture. At its peak, the arena could host up to 16,000 spectators for bullfights, concerts, and civic events. When bullfighting was banned in Catalonia in 1977, the arena fell into disuse until a dramatic transformation gave it a second life. Today, Arenas de Barcelona is a multi-level shopping centre that incorporates the original façade and structure of the historic bullring. Its rooftop terrace offers 360-degree views of the city, making it a popular stop for both visitors and locals. It’s a striking example of how this neighbourhood has continually reinvented itself, turning former spaces of spectacle and industry into hubs for culture, community, and commerce.
Sant Antoni
Sant Antoni, nestled between Paral·lel and Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, is one of the most vibrant and evolving parts of the Eixample. Known for its strong community spirit and growing food and drink scene, the neighbourhood blends traditional charm with a contemporary, creative edge.
Mercat de Sant Antoni: A Community Hub
At its heart stands the Mercat de Sant Antoni, a true icon of the area. First opened in 1882 and recently restored after a decade-long renovation, it remains one of Barcelona’s most important markets, both in scale and in cultural significance. The iron structure, designed by Antoni Rovira i Trias, stretches across an entire city block and hosts separate sections for fresh food, clothes, and the ever-popular Sunday book and collectables market. The market is more than a place to shop—it’s a community hub and a symbol of Sant Antoni’s enduring identity.
Inside the market, make sure to stop by Bar Restaurant Pinotxo, a legendary spot with a loyal following. With its unassuming counter, warm service, and Catalan staples cooked to perfection, it’s long been a favourite for locals and early-rising foodies. Whether you’re in the mood for garbanzos with morcilla, grilled squid, or a perfectly poured café amb llet, Pinotxo delivers every time.
Culinary Hotspots: Bar Tiramat and Bodegas
Just outside the market, the neighbourhood continues to buzz with culinary energy. One of the newest additions to the scene is Bar Tiramat. It’s the kind of place that blends in effortlessly with the neighbourhood’s character: approachable, fun, and quietly excellent.
Two beloved bodegas round out the list of must-visits. La Bodega de Rafael offers a nostalgic, no-frills experience, serving hearty dishes and pouring good wine in a space that feels frozen in time in all the best ways. Not far away, Bodega Vinito brings a slightly more modern edge while staying true to the traditional bodega spirit: think handwritten menus, vermut on tap, and shareable plates designed for slow afternoons and easy conversation.
Fàbrica Moritz: Craft Beer Meets Industrial Chic
And then there’s Fàbrica Moritz Barcelona, a beer lover’s dream housed in the former Moritz brewery. It’s been reinvented as a multi-use gastronomic space, featuring a working microbrewery, a bakery, restaurant, and concept store, all designed by Jean Nouvel. Here, you can sip fresh unpasteurized Moritz beer brewed on-site, enjoy Alsatian-inspired dishes, and take in the industrial-chic design that makes the space as much an architectural experience as a culinary one.
Sant Antoni is one of those neighbourhoods that always seems to be evolving without ever losing its soul. Whether you’re here for a market morning, a long lunch, or a night of bar-hopping, it welcomes you in and makes you want to stay.
Have you walked through this part of the Eixample with fresh eyes lately? You might be surprised by what you find.
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